Should i keep car with these issues

natural4reelz · Post by **natural4reelz** » 02 Feb 2019, 11:49

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Post by **abscate** » 02 Feb 2019, 13:04

Not enough information.

A “ leak “ can mean a seep at a seam that needs annual top off or a Volvo Valdez that is kill8ng the armadillos on the road.

M...why don’t you PM Robert Skinner and spend a few hours with home to get experienced eyeballs on your car? I know that’s failing SW Geography on Jeopardy, but it’s hard to gauge where you are

A 130k Volvo is about 1/3 through life if you maintain it,

IslandV70 · Post by **IslandV70** » 02 Feb 2019, 17:26

3 bald tires and a bad control arm

I wouldn't be driving that on public roads!

Post by **SuperHerman** » 02 Feb 2019, 20:43

Depends on your budget and the condition of the car other than the items listed needing repair.

I wouldn't sell a car that needs new tires and has a bad control arm. These are normal service items, and need to be serviced now.

The rest of the leaks are very suspect. Volvos rarely leak from the valve cover gasket and oil pan especially at your miles.

You need to clean up all the oil leaks and figure out exactly what is leaking. Most likely at least a seal, maybe a few.

Have you had your timing belt serviced? If not it is past time - some of the leaks can be addressed then. Has the PCV been checked and serviced? This could be the cause of the leaks.

Bottom line, at a 130k your car is due for some serious service work. You need to check your finances and see if it is worth spending upwards of $2500 to get everything sorted. If you can handle the work then nothing is that bad, except the valve cover leak (which I seriously doubt is leaking).

Were it me, I would address the tires and control, clean up all the oil, fill all fluids and then monitor. AGAIN - if you have not done your timing belt this is a priority item.

Post by **cn90** » 02 Feb 2019, 20:52

1+,

130K is not that old.
Search forum for DIYs and spend some $ and time to beef it up.

Post by **precopster** » 02 Feb 2019, 22:33

He made it sound twice as bad by separating the differential and transmission as both leaking making it sound as though they are two distinct jobs, as they are contained in the same casing....but of course a customer wouldn't know that would they?

Mechanic's next quote: Let's see now....$500 to reseal the transmission and $350 to reseal the differential sounds about right.

Sorry been burned too many times by mechanics; the inherent skeptic in me is shining through once more.......

The RMS could be leaking. Or a cam seal here and there. Or both VVTs but let's not go there. Without a good steam clean and revisit within 50 miles it would be almost impossible to judge where exactly the leaking is coming from. The oil cap seal ($5 part) could be the biggest culprit here and it can be so bad that the oil drips down on to the sump area via the rear of the engine past the exhaust. As SuperH mentioned above PCV is likely due.

You're not having drive-ability issues from 3 bald tires?? Are you coasting to every destination at 15mph and having a train pull the car back up hills?

I just don't buy a 5 minute diagnosis....

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 03 Feb 2019, 11:25

Add to all this the "commonest" next step.
Get the engine a bit warm, spray with engine degreaser or some such, rinse off, repeat with rubbing, rinse & let dry.
Then look every day for where the "leaks" return from.

Sounds like a lot to do, but......You have to be able to clean and look at things to have at least a shred of involvement and control over this situation. If eye protection, spray cleaners, rubber gloves, a flashlight and rags are beyond your capabilities then we can skip any questions regarding tool use proficiency.

the skepticism expressed above is dead on accurate. Too bad your tires are bald as it's a big first expense in investigating how to proceed with a "questionable" car.

Is the car on the road legally? Is inspection looming?

Post by **oragex** » 03 Feb 2019, 15:56

precopster wrote: ↑02 Feb 2019, 22:33 Sorry been burned too many times by mechanics; the inherent skeptic in me is shining through once more.......

I feel the same for some reason. What is the nme of the garage? Its the first time I see this many leaks. Ask us before repairs and buy the parts online from the good brands. Really not sure about a flush at that place. Why the flush? Ask us first for suggestions on the subject

natural4reelz · Post by **natural4reelz** » 03 Feb 2019, 16:46

Meineke auto shop... was where i went...
I take pics of the tires.....

Can i take my car into a car wash and spray it with hot water from the top of engine.......

I had them drain out 4QTS tranny fluid and put another 4 of Synthetic Valvoline maxlife because it was still sluggish ....

I had taken 3QTS week before that when i first dicovered the transmission issue and it threw a code then ....

I hope my transmission is ok .... its just sluggish still but dont have any warning texts messages or CEL codes since i did the last drain/and fill
But i do drive alot at work so i drove 200plus miles in between the drain and fills...

Does it take a long time before i feel a difference in transmission since the drain/fill ?

I only notice the difference being that i dont have any warning messages or CEL CODES or jerking of the car...

But i only have slow /sluggish feeling in the transmission

Does my car have a PCV??
Where is it and do you have photos to show me because im not a mechanic ....

Thank you for helping me

Michelle

Post by **June** » 03 Feb 2019, 17:26

Michelle, stay away from places like Mineke! No wonder a front wheel drive has a differential leak

. You must find a European car specialist shop minimally.

Yes it has PCV and to test it you can do a glove test. Take off the oil cap and attach a latex exam glove over the hole. Start engine and the glove should suck in. Then rev engine to 2000 rpm and the glove should stay sucked in. If it inflates at idle or 2000 rpm your PCV is in need of replacement.

Spraying the engine with water is not a good idea. It is best to have a actual professional mechanic use a air sprayer that can clean the engine with solvent not water and he will then spray powder on it then have you drive it a few days. The seepage will be apparent in the powder. Do NOT spray a product like canned engine degreaser on a hot engine as it is flammable and the hot turbo could ignite it and that type of fire water won't put out.

Being a lady it is tough to trust a mechanic/shop. That us why I stick with the dealer personally. June