Serial number problems.. SOS

Post by **abscate** » 02 Apr 2019, 10:32

If you know the history of the oil pump failure and it was shut down quickly, the bottom end of the motor can be skipped.

If you don’t know the history, you need to drop the pan, pull of the rods, And add big and little end bearing evaluation

Add 20 hours to the labour bill for that

Post by **erikv11** » 02 Apr 2019, 12:12

If the oil pump blew twice and is blown now, and you don't know much else about when/how/why/what is wrong, I might just get another engine. Likely the most cost effective route in the end.

Mountainman45 · Post by **Mountainman45** » 03 Apr 2019, 14:23

No the current issue is the head gasket being blown.. the car ran well for almost 40k miles after it's overhaul... So I don't think I've got much to worry about there UNLESS the destruction of the HG could've messed up something that was already repaired... It was Dad's car and he decided to fight a pothole with his front end and lost. Cracked the radiator. The engine subsequently dumped all the coolant, then the oil, then fried the head gasket

Post by **abscate** » 03 Apr 2019, 18:22

Overheats on Volvo blocks usually take out head only

Head off
Plane it to flatness at machine shop
New Volvo gasket
New head bolts

Post by **precopster** » 03 Apr 2019, 19:35

Head gasket breaches don't usually involve the dumping of oil. Sounds pretty catastrophic. Block could be warped; needs to be thoroughly cleaned and checked with a straight edge. Also a thorough check that cylinder liners in the block haven't shifted.

Often coolant sitting in the cylinders can permanently damage the bore unless coolant was at the correct mix; you won't know until it's all apart.

Sounds like a good machine shop is needed.

Mountainman45 · Post by **Mountainman45** » 04 Apr 2019, 02:18

I think the oil came from cracking the rad. Either way, I'm gonna try and put a new head on it anyway just to be safe. Any suggestions on what car to grab it from? As well as tips, tricks and warnings on the Do's and Don'ts of head gasket replacement and head swaps. I'm completely new engine work but not new to working on cars just so you have an idea as to what skill level I'm at haha!!

Post by **abscate** » 04 Apr 2019, 03:27

Get some good reference material like VIDA or all data and follow procedures

If you try To wing it following Uncle Joes’ advice from his glory days with his Hemi, the Volvo will bite you behind.

Cams locked, timing set the right way, no gasket on cam cover, all Volvo peculiarities

These are Fine crafted machines and respond well to engine work. The bottom ends are near indestructible.

Mountainman45 · Post by **Mountainman45** » 04 Apr 2019, 05:30

Oh jeez.... What specialty tools should I go ahead and buy in advance?
and I was told by a few of my friends that are Volvo experts that I should probably buy this kit

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1430861330

Post by **erikv11** » 05 Apr 2019, 01:31

Precopster works on these for a living, I'd heed his post.

It's pretty satisfying to tear down an engine but unless you have a big shop and tools (or want them) and budget I'd consider your options carefully. Anyone who has done both a few times will tell you without hesitation that swapping the engine is several times easier than pulling and repairing the head, and several times less prone to failure. It's slightly more dangerous (heavy objects in tight spaces) but waaaaay simpler. Take the old one out, put the new one in. Cost is about the same if you do the head work properly.

The head never goes back on as well as it did at the factory. Spruce up the replacement engine (timing, seals) before you drop it in.

highmiles · Post by **highmiles** » 05 Apr 2019, 13:38

I am (hopefully) nearing the end of putting back together a B5244T3 from a 2003 S60. The car was free... the motor was in the car, just not in the engine compartment, but occupied the passenger seat, rear seat and trunk. It was sent to a machine shop before I got it. I had to buy new big end bearings, cap bolts, piston rings, seals and gaskets, spark plugs etc. etc. I bet I have $1,200 in parts in it, though some cost is related to not all the parts being accounted for (had to get a junkyard cam cover and exhaust manifold,) but does not include a new fuel pump (died from sitting I suppose,) and I will have to send out the gauge cluster for repair (ditto.)
All that is to say an engine swap is very likely to be more cost effective less of a risk.
Having said that, I went into my project to learn as much as to end up with a running vehicle that I can sell. And what a learning curve it has been! In order to capitalize on all this knowledge I picked up a 2001 S60 T5 manual, motor also in pieces, but also came with another motor to swap. I think the one special tool I bought was the cam holding tool. I made my own valve spring compressor.
Enjoy your project!

Serial number problems.. SOS

Re: Serial number problems.. SOS