Hard to Start After DIY Work

chitownV · Post by **chitownV** » 30 Aug 2020, 10:45

Here are links to help with the fuel rail valve. Don't look for a shrader valve sticking out. It is under a small plastic round cover at the end of the fuel rail on the passenger side. It may need an adapter, again not a typical valve.

https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... page_6267/

https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... page_6267/

https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... fications/

miley · Post by **miley** » 30 Aug 2020, 17:17

oragex wrote: ↑30 Aug 2020, 06:40 I wonder if the oil separator would cause the car not to start ?
Is the fuel pressure constant at 60psi while cranking and no start ?
The 3.2 has problems with the alternator around these miles. Not sure if related www.youtube.com/watch?v=2x9cufzCXmo
Do you have a fuel pressure sensor ? You also have a PEM, at 100k miles is a bit early for corrosion but who knows, Chicago winters.. (see comments section) www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryxNLIcxVHM

My mechanic seems to think that in his "over-the-phone" diagnostic.... He also mentioned the battery and starter....

So, about a hour ago, replaced the battery.... H8 battery is insanely heavy btw.
Also, the new MAF and new fuel rail pressure sensor came in so replaced those. Rough start again but maybe from the fact I pulled the rail again and emptied it basically while unscrewing the fuel pressure sensor bolt. And yeah... when I had the rented tester kit I had the gauge on the schrader valve beside the fuel filter and it read a decent pressure from the fuel pump prior to starting... I did not however monitor the gauge *while* starting as I didn't have a helper that day.

I am letting the fuel system pressure and engine temp get back to ambient levels before trying again.

Never had any electrical issues but I will check out the alternator video thanks for that. I just looked up the PEM as I of course have never heard of it. Would the car even start if that were going bad? And would there be any issues after startup with it failing? The car idles better than it ever has after replacing the injectors.... the only problem at all I am having now is the super sluggish startup. **Also** I'm in Florida. chitownV is our Chicago friend. My XC90 has lived its whole life in N. FL. hauling groceries.

miley · Post by **miley** » 31 Aug 2020, 13:35

chitownV wrote: ↑30 Aug 2020, 10:45 Here are links to help with the fuel rail valve. Don't look for a shrader valve sticking out. It is under a small plastic round cover at the end of the fuel rail on the passenger side. It may need an adapter, again not a typical valve.

https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... page_6267/

https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... page_6267/

https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... fications/

Oh wow I thought that was just a torx bit on the end :'D
If changing this oil pan piece up top does nothing then I will have to get the injection system kit rented out again. It had a lot of adapters. I will say the ODB2 read a FRP of 381kPa while running, after I changed the injectors. That seems to be within the specs of what the shop manual lists.

I havent checked much from the work I did yesterday but I will see if theres any difference when I get home.

miley · Post by **miley** » 11 Oct 2020, 10:00

Hey all,
Between work and school the Vo has been on the back-burner. I am back at it now.

So, recap: Bad #6 injector was original issue. Replaced injectors and then the real unfun started. The major problem has been a difficult start from cold. When the car does start it runs and idles better than it ever has.

Work I have done since the original issue:
Injectors replaced (cheap ebay). Fuel filter replaced. Spark plugs replaced (good ones). MAF sensor replaced. Fuel pressure sensor replaced(driver side of fuel rail). Battery replaced (the battery was fine but I was just trying things at that point). Fuel injector testing kit used to test fuel pressure at key turn and then running(pressure buildup seemed fined prior to turning engine over). Oil vapor separator replaced (I don't know what this has to do with anything but the mechanic I talked to mentioned it and the engine is much quieter now). Also, I never ended up taking the car to the shop.

So, I was thinking the reason that the hard startup might be the cheap injectors I bought. There are new codes now and these codes pop up after idling for some time, or driving.
P0172 and P0175
System too rich bank 1 and 2.
So, I bought some Bosch injectors and replaced them again yesterday.
No change. Still throwing these codes. I thought maybe the MAF sensor I bought was bad so I put in the OEM and no change.

If anyone can help point me in the right direction at this point I would be eternally grateful. I can take pics, video, ODB2 info, anything.

chitownV · Post by **chitownV** » 11 Oct 2020, 11:19

Can you run an app like Torque using a bluetooth OBDII adapter and see the short and long term fuel trims for each bank?
Have you double checked the intake for any leaks, loose clamps, etc.? Might be difficult to check.

miley · Post by **miley** » 11 Oct 2020, 11:28

chitownV wrote: ↑11 Oct 2020, 11:19 Can you run an app like Torque using a bluetooth OBDII adapter and see the short and long term fuel trims for each bank?
Have you double checked the intake for any leaks, loose clamps, etc.? Might be difficult to check.

I'll have to get a different ODB2... mine is a wired unit. I believe it does do LTFT and STFT.. let me see what I can gather.
Also, I will deff double check for leaks... not sure what I can do outside of eyeballing and feeling for air rushing out of the sides of hoses.

miley · Post by **miley** » 11 Oct 2020, 11:59

One thought I just had. If the injectors I had were in fact faulty, upon replacing them would I still be having the issues if they leaked a significant amount of gasoline into the oil? Should I go ahead and change the oil/filter? Before putting the new Bosch injectors in I could smell gas on the oil dipstick.

Post by **kallekula** » 11 Oct 2020, 12:59

Throw those injrctors in thr bin and buy oe. These cheap, often chinese made, injectors are crap!

chitownV · Post by **chitownV** » 11 Oct 2020, 23:03

miley wrote: ↑11 Oct 2020, 11:59 One thought I just had. If the injectors I had were in fact faulty, upon replacing them would I still be having the issues if they leaked a significant amount of gasoline into the oil? Should I go ahead and change the oil/filter? Before putting the new Bosch injectors in I could smell gas on the oil dipstick.

It's not a bad idea when you know there has been oil dilution due to leaking fuel injectors or bad injectors causing a rich condition.

miley · Post by **miley** » 12 Oct 2020, 05:07

I took some videos yesterday. One recording the short and long term fuel trims. I will post them when I get a change to today.

Hard to Start After DIY Work

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