Well, this explains alot. Is this fixiable? Or did I just F*** myself??!!

[cn90]

Ha,

Got it now.
Thought someone shot a bullet through it lol.
So, somehow the bolt was broken and someone tried to tap it?

[cn90]

I wonder if you can skip one bolt and hopefully no leak?

[RickHaleParker]

Original JB Weld or Quick set JB Weld?
What was the lowest temperature when you did this?
How long did you let it cure?

Options:
1. Drill, Tap then Oversize bolt.
2. Helicoil.
3. JB Weld a stud in there and use a nut at that position.

[wbrenegade420]

Or do you think this is something a reputable shop could handle?

[wbrenegade420]

Original JB Weld or Quick set JB Weld?
What was the lowest temperature when you did this?
How long did you let it cure?

Options:
1. Drill, Tap then Oversize bolt.
2. Helicoil.
3. JB Weld a stud in there and use a nut at that position.

Oh my!! Sir, you are an absolute genious!! #3. JB Weld a stud in there and use a nut at that position. That's exactly what I'm about to do. I can't believe i never thought of that

[wbrenegade420]

I wonder if you can skip one bolt and hopefully no leak?

I was thinking this too and was going to try it

[cn90]

What happened exactly, did the bolt break during removal?

[cn90]

Google "volvo stripped water pump threads" and you will see a few people with same issues.

Once you fix it and done, do NOT install the timing belt etc.
Pressurize the cooling system for any leak first!
This way you can correct it as necessary.

[firstv70volvo]

There are step studs that may work for you. I believe the standard water pump bolts are 7mm and there's a 8mm to 6mm step stud in 23mm and 31mm lengths. If you can drill and tap for the 8mm stud end it would be a better fix than epoxy. You also may be able top open the water pump hole opening to 8mm and just use an 8mm stud. Base on the photo of the hole it may not be possible to drill and tab a perfect 8mm tapped hole but if you can get any threads tapped to hold the stud you could locktite the stud in place and be better off than epoxy alone in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/Step-Stud-31mm-C ... E64WT4T7E4

Edit
After looking the water pump and engine there's room for another option. There' room to drill a hole in the water pump housing and a new tapped hole next to the damage hole. In this case the damage hole could be filled with epoxy to seal and a new bolt located next to the damaged one could provide the original holding force.

[cn90]

Not easy to drill in that location.

On a related thread of stripped Torx bolt on the tensioner pulley in the P80 cars,
some people have to drill a hole in the wheel well so they can drill the stripped Torx bolt out:

viewtopic.php?t=59037

Same idea here, if the O.P. wants to drill and taps a new hole (which I am not sure JB Weld can hold that much force/torque),
then he may have to drill a hole in the wheel well to do that.

PS re skipping bolt, yrs and yrs ago, while changing the WP on my 1983 BMW 735i, I stripped a bolt and skipped that bolt (bc I did not know how to drill right-angle, too risky). Interestingly, no leak for the next 40K miles...