Stripped tension pulley torx - Bay Area

Samport · Post by **Samport** » 16 Sep 2013, 23:59

Yes, like many before me, I've stripped the idler tension pulley torx bolt. Tried everything short of hole in wheel well or Dremel. Am in Berkeley and need some guidance. Thanks in advance.

Post by **JDS60R** » 17 Sep 2013, 00:11

4 ideas

1. Long cold chisel and a hammer

2. Air hammer
http://www.harborfreight.com/medium-bar ... 69866.html

3. If there is room sometimes an allen can be beaten/hammered into a failed torx

4. Pray

Samport · Post by **Samport** » 30 Sep 2013, 23:21

Had to drill a hole through the wheel well then pound in a torx 47 using mallet and socket extension. Provided enough bite to loosen the torx bolt and remove tension pulley. Now got to figure out easiest way to plug the whole.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Oct 2013, 00:11

Samport wrote:easiest way to plug the whole.

**
Depending on the size go to Home Depot in the nuts and bolt section and find some rubber, plastic or metal plugs or use an electrical box hole cover or knock out cover. Use a little outdoor combo sealant adhesive to help keep it in place

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CGcQ9QEwAg

Good samples or size and variety
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0dt8k

Blessings,

BKM

**

Samport · Post by **Samport** » 01 Oct 2013, 08:43

Brilliant. Thank you, Sam

Samport · Post by **Samport** » 22 Aug 2014, 17:26

If anyone finds themselves in a similar situation, here's a picture of the tension pulley as viewed through the hole in the wheel well. Fairly straight forward. Plugged hole with rubber grommet and caulk.

Post by **dosbricks** » 22 Aug 2014, 19:18

Samport, I stripped the teeth off my torx bit last time and postponed changing the tensioner idler since it was done last TB change, but now wish I had dealt with it. I thought about your solution and was going to use a rare earth magnet on the inside and a small nut on the outside to locate the drill point, but from your photo it appears it's a double wall construction, so that's out. How did you locate the hole so accurately and what size hole did you drill? Did you use a hole saw?

Thanks,

dos

Post by **JimBee** » 22 Aug 2014, 19:40

I'm concerned about this on my 850. I wonder if there's enough room in there to get a wrench handle on this Lisle screw extractor.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-62110-4-Pie ... ractor+set

Maybe get a box wrench around the shank and fashion some sort of wedge to force it in. If the extractor teeth are sharp enough it might work.

Post by **dosbricks** » 22 Aug 2014, 20:00

The problem with the cramped quarters is keeping any short tool lined up on the same axis as the torx bolt. IMHO, getting misaligned is the main reason for strip-out of a torx bolt and the reason I left off trying before that happened. That's why the hole in the fender well appeals to me, so one could use a long extension and gain a good sense of being straight on with the bolt.

Post by **cn90** » 23 Aug 2014, 05:41

The #1 cause: people don't apply the tool properly. It needs to bite properly.
So make sure you snug the Torx socket in, wiggle it a bit to be sure it bites, then use a iron pipe for added leverage.
Left hand pushing the Torx in, Right hand on the iron pipe.

This is my trick: