P80 P2 Subframe Bushing installation with pictures 3507923

[firstv70volvo]

No don't worry about that, you only have to drop the subframe enough to get a spacer in between the subframe and the mainframe, about a quarter inch, make sure you do this otherwise the bushings will not seat fully. Note the orientation of the bushings before you take them out and put the new ones in the same way.....this IS important! Also make sure to use new bolts, if you start at noon you should be done in time for a pre dinner cold beer!
One other note.....make sure you get them started straight in the bores before you "press" them in with the bolts, once they're started, it may be impossible to to get them out without destroying them, I hope you splurged for the OEM Volvo ones!

Completed replacing the four subframe bushings today. With all the good tips and techniques I was done in 2.5 hours and one of the bushing gave me some problems or I would have been done even sooner. Drilling out the plastic shell worked great and I made a variation of the washer with some standoffs to press in the bushing from the start. I didn't have four nuts of the same height around so used some dowel rod pieces I cut to length, which worked well but I cracked a couple of them and had to make some extras. I copied the orientation of the original bushing which is the solid rubber bridges left and right, looks like there's more give in the bushing design front to back and more solid support left to right. Thanks again for all the good ideas it made the job much easier and faster to complete.

[abscate]

We thank you both fir a great DIY and the verified follow up!

[matthew1]

Just completed installing 4 subframe bushings and new spring seats with genuine Volvo parts. Its a pretty straightforward job for those contemplating it. I didn't document the spring seat install as it is a simple process. Subframe bushings should take 3 or 4 hours with hand tools, nothing special required in the way of tools. I thought as I did the first one that I was in over my head and would need a press or something to get the new one in before coming up with a simple solution.
Removing bushing.jpg
Drilled bushings.jpg

Nice writeup, Blacklab467. Do you have larger photos? I'll swap those into your DIY. I forget what I have the editing window (time) set at, so you probably can't edit your head post. You can post them or send them to me: [email protected].

[abscate]

Good job. Good point about not pushing directly on the rubber tabs. When pushing directly on the plastic with the 4 nuts, did the plastic lip feel solid enough ? I may add, the two smaller 14mm bolts on the rear bracket are 37 ft-lb torque

Since other people will watch this thread in the future, I would like to also warn about potential issues with the large subframe bolts, same may rust badly which will cause them to get thinner (so less solid) and also stuck. There were a few unlucky people who had such bolts break during removal (not fun). If one feels the bolt is stuck or starts to 'twist', better stop removing it. I recommend not using excessive force on the breaker bar while trying to remove a bolt. Here's a picture of a badly rusted subframe bolt.

Notice the bolts have a black paint coat, once this coat is scratched, rust starts having a party. I've found the same issue with the two horizontal control arm bolts
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5.jpg

The rust shouldn’t be an issue because.....


Volvo says you replace these bolts whenever they are removed. I’ll measure mine today to see if there is detectable stretch , as I have four off the car and four new ones. My guess is even the torque plus120 isn’t stretching these thick (M12 ? ) bolts

The stretch of 120 degrees is about 500 microns of thread length on a 15 cm bolt, or 3% stretch at most, well under the plastic deformation limit for an M12 of this size

[Blacklab467]

Good job on the bushings! I don't know why Volvo recommends such a complicated press tool to get these things in as its quite simple to come up with something like you did to make it work so well. I assume you have driven it with the new bushings.....did you notice a big difference??
Sorry Matthew, no other pictures of the job. I'll use the good camera for this purpose in the future.

[firstv70volvo]

Good job on the bushings! I don't know why Volvo recommends such a complicated press tool to get these things in as its quite simple to come up with something like you did to make it work so well. I assume you have driven it with the new bushings.....did you notice a big difference??
Sorry Matthew, no other pictures of the job. I'll use the good camera for this purpose in the future.

I've only driven a short distance so far and didn't notice a big difference but a difference. Turns out the bushings I took out with 209,000 miles on them where in pretty decent condition. The front left bushing raised rubber fins that contact the washer had some chunks of rubber missing and why I replaced the bushings but the core rubber wasn't too bad although the old bushings did flex noticeably easier than the new bushings.
One thing I noticed with the original bushings is the left rear bushing has an elongated center hole (see photo). It looks like a different part number bushing and I checked but couldn't find a part number on it or the others.

[Blacklab467]

That's normal on that elliptical bore on the original bushings. Volvo doesn't offer that bushing for replacement but rather just one with a round hole. I'd be really curious as to the reason for that oblong hole if anyone knows.......perhaps for tweaking subframe alignment at the factory/ assembly stage but then you would need 2 such bushings on the same size for adjustment. If anyone know, do tell!

[abscate]

That’s the same one with the snout on the body to take the bushing isn’t it ?

[Blacklab467]

yes.

[erikv11]

What a great thread, thanks Blacklab467 and all!

The subframe bolts are part number 985111 e.g. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 850-985111 currently about 5 bucks per.