V70 new Bosch fuel pump whine, same as old one. Topic is solved

[oragex]

What other work was done around the engine when the o-rings were replaced ?
Can you record a video with the pump whine ?

[Pppatric]

Hey, I can upload video tomorrow, also I will have fuel pressure readings.

During this job, timing belt, water pump, tensioner was changed, all engine seals including vvt seals, cam seal, camshaft seals and whole pcv system were replaced.
Also etm was cleaned.

[Pppatric]

Hello
Here is the link with pump noise.



I received odb scanner, but apps like torque pro and car scanner does not show any readings about fuel pressure.

Is it possible, that without fuel pressure sensor, I will not be able to read it with cheap odb scanner?

Regards

[jonesg]

can't hear any whine.

[EngineeringBloke]

Whine noise

I do hear a clear, high pitched whine in your video.

It would be easier to hear if you turned the engine off (:)). Actually, I think the pump runs in key position 2 before you start the engine, so you could try that. However, I think the pump would only run briefly as it pressurizes the fuel system upto operating fuel pressure, so that may not be too useful.

Anyway, the pump does seem the most likely source of this noise at the back, side of the car.

Symptom continues after pump replacement

You mention that the noise developed and then you had the fuel pump replaced and then the noise continued. This seems unexpected!

Leak

Not sure that the fuel injector orings are the cause of the problem, although, if they leak, then extra fuel is lost, and the pump will work harder. With a leak, it is likely the fuel pressure will be lower than commanded by the ECU, so it will direct the PEM to tell the pump to work harder - pump faster, increasing wear and noise.

I expect the leak would have to be severe for the pump to be this loud as I have not read of pump noise previously (but may have missed it) on this forum.

Leaks at the orings either go into the cylinder but probably are not as a correct fine mist, and not at the right timing, and/or leak out to the fuel rail bar then drop onto the intake manifold.

This might show as variations from the commanded air to fuel ratio, also increased fuel consumption. The fuel pressure may also vary from the ECU set value (usually about 55 PSI - check your manual).

PEM

Volvos have used PEMs to control the pump for many years. The ECU talks to the PEM via the car's digital network and the PEM sends the control voltage to the pump regulating its speed. If the PEM was not present, I wonder where the ECU's digital signal would be converted to analog for the pump. Perhaps, instead, a measure of the fuel pressure is used to maintain a fixed fuel pressure in an analog form, but I would still expect something to sit in front of the pump (even if it was not digital).

I would expect you have one - esp on a 2006 turbo. Mine is in my trunk on a metal wall near the back rear corner of the car. It is under a carpet flap that covers the spare wheel and the battery. I just replaced mine as a diagnostic attempt which seems to have improved the fuel consumption a little but not addressed my fuel pressure issue. $125 from Ebay and used, so 30% of the cost of a new one.

However, as someone above mentioned that it is an option on the wiring diagram. It is possible that, instead of an electronic digital control system that maintains and possibly modifies fuel pressure (in case of need for higher fuel demand), the engine could use an analog feedback system to maintain the fuel pressure. Thus the digital-analog conversion of the PEM is not needed and it would not be present.

Torque app

I use the Torque Pro app ($5) and am able to monitor LTFT (long term fuel trim), STFT (short term fuel trim), commanded and measured AF ratio and also the fuel pressure (and much more). I verified the Torque FPS readings with a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that I loaned free from an autopart store (I am trying to investigate why I see my FP drop from 55 to 43 PSI in my 2006 S60 2.5T. The pressure drops within about 30 seconds of starting or moving the car and stays at the lower value)

I just changed phones and have setting up the Torque app again.
1. Ensure you have set the profile (profile name should be specified), and configured the ODB2 adapter so you can connect your phone to the car's diagnostics. You should be able to see 4 blue icons (a satellite, phone, ODB2 adapter icon, and car icon) at top of Torque screen when connected correctly.

2. Click the '*' gear tool icon from the first main menu screen, go through the settings.

• In 'Data Logging & Upload':

• Press 'Select what to log'

• Click on the three dots (...) icon

• Click on the drop down 'Select what to log'

• Scroll through the list, clicking on the square selection boxes for items (PIDs) that you want to measure. (Some items may not be indicated as available until you are connected to a running engine via ODB2, others may not be available to monitor.)

Perhaps just add a couple then do the next steps to see if this is working for you. Come back and add more if it works.

3. Add a list display:

• Return to the main (first screen).

• Click on 'Realtime information' icon

• Click on the '*' gear icon

• Select 'Add display'

• Scroll down to 'Raw Data display' and click on it

• Slide the display square into place and release

The raw data display is a list of the current values for all the monitored PID values.

4. Test it with the ODB2 adapter in the car diagnostic port and the engine running. Go to the screen you added and scroll up and down until you see fuel pressure. (Some details are not displayed until the car starts and some not until it moves.)

Next steps

• Please confirm that this problem was present before and after pump replacement.

• Please check fuel pressure on Torque.

• Please check inside the back of the car to see if you can locate the source of the sound. It may be a vibration of something else- perhaps a relay or other coil on a car module circuit board.

[Pppatric]

Hello.

Today my car died at parking lot, I wasn't able to start it.
It was starting, and then die after 2 seconds.

Lately I also had problem with fluctuating rpm and stuff.

So I towed it back home with my brother car.

Tip, always check if you have a towing hook at the trunk, I bought my car without one, and spend two hours looking for one.
Happily for me, the had a used Volvo at the dealership next to my home, and was so kind to borrow me one.

Anyway.

Changed camshaft sensor, no luck.

I did smoke test few days ago and found huge leak at PTC valve.

So...

I changed turbo inlet pipe altogether with PTC today, and guess what.

Pump is hard to hear, of course I can still hear it a little, but I have read that new Bosch pomp can be louder then original one.

Anyway my car is running like new, power is back, rpm are steady, and pump is 5 times more quiet.

So it was a vacuum leak after all I quess.

Also there is no pem in my car, this type works with maximum fuel pressure, and regulator directly in pomp assembly.

Errors I had was p0101, 0100, 2178, 2188.

Thank you Block for such a nice replay, really appreciate it.
Also all guys involved in topic.

I quess it can be marked as solved.
I go to drink non alcoholic beer, for saved $$.