Preventing and removing brake pad deposits on rotors? Topic is solved

[MoVolvos]

I blame the parking brake shoes dragging against the rotor hat, causing excess heat, bubbling the caliper piston boots...

Exactly what happened to my 03 Odyssey. I didn't change the parking shoes and when the weather got warmer it would expand and drag causing lots of thumping / banging. This is really caused by worn parking shoes that are no longer round or match the new rotors. Had to loosen so that the gap was so great when applying the parking brakes it would depress all the way down. On hills it would slowly slide and engage the parking / transmission shift lock in order to stop.

One rear caliper dragged again so it was metal to metal in no time. With new rotors, pads and parking shoes and cleaning the inside of the caliper (piston still highly polished) the issues went away. The parking brake can be tighten so the travel is further up during engagement.

With yours the rust from the rain and with warmer weather decreased the gap in the parking brake shoes and rotor. Increase the gap and the problem should go away if that is indeed the problem. The deposits on the rotor surface is very minor and should not cause the thumping.

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[abscate]

The pistons expand and retract fully and easily. In January when I inspected them, the boots weren't bubbled and I saw no cracks in the boots which could let water in. So I'm hoping the pistons are good.

I would like to get a caliper from the junkyard in order to use its pistons if necessary. They are what always seems to go bad but they're not available separately.

You can get them in the UK but we need a group buy to make the shopping cost effective.

Hmm, I’ve got 4 P80s in the fleet, that’s 8 rear calipers. I probably should do this

[RickHaleParker]

Hmm, I’ve got 4 P80s in the fleet, that’s 8 rear calipers. I probably should do this

Google "Salt and Vinegar bath to remove rust." Learn how to make then look like new.

[FireFox31]

I'm considering sandblasting the exterior of my calipers, then spraying them with some rust inhibiting paint. Would this work?

[RickHaleParker]

I'm considering sandblasting the exterior of my calipers, then spraying them with some rust inhibiting paint. Would this work?

It would work. Instead of paint you might consider Bluing the steel. Bluing steel is to coat the steel with Black oxide. Heat and Oil is one way of Bluing steel. There are other way to do it that have different advantages.

You could do the initial 400° temperature in an oven and you would not need worry about over heating.

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[abscate]

Easier to get on the FCP train and replace every four years in salt climate

[FireFox31]

I've had only horrible experiences with rebuilt calipers; all of them failed in a few years. I blame piston boots poorly installed to leave gaps where water and dirt crept in. I saw this on a rebuilt I bought from FCP, then corrected it before install. I think my rear calipers are original, so I want to do whatever I can to preserve them.

[abscate]

How can they clean up a rotor, hone the insides, install new seals , bleeders, test , shop , wholesale , and then retail for $40?

[MoVolvos]

How can they clean up a rotor, hone the insides, install new seals , bleeders, test , shop , wholesale , and then retail for $40?

Parts are not that expensive at the source. This guy says 10 minutes so how much faster in a basement of the Nike factory.



Replacing only seals. This guy has good videos.



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[RickHaleParker]

How can they clean up a rotor, hone the insides, install new seals , bleeders, test , shop , wholesale , and then retail for $40?

By externalizing the cost through subsidized production. That way the cost is spread across a multitude of people other then the end user.

Insures that the incorporated persons with the deepest pockets and best attorneys wins the game. The little guy get booted out of the game because he cannot afford an attorney that can navigate the bureaucratic regulations and get his production subsidized.