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Growling sound while driving 2006 xc70 Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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erikv11
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Re: Growling sound while driving 2006 xc70

Post by erikv11 »

Over the last year I have removed the propshaft and angle gear from both my S60 R 06 and XC70 07 and never had to mess with any part of the exhaust. Not the muffler, not the down pipe or exhaust, nothing. The prop shaft slides out toward (and back in from) the rear with the exhaust in place.

Oh wait I did have to drop the center exhaust support on one side, after you loosen the center bearing on the shaft. All of the writeups mention that step. But that's it.

Let us know when you figure out the growl! Sorry, I've got nothing to add there.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

erikv11 wrote: 27 Nov 2021, 15:26 Over the last year I have removed the propshaft and angle gear from both my S60 R 06 and XC70 07 and never had to mess with any part of the exhaust. Not the muffler, not the down pipe or exhaust, nothing. The prop shaft slides out toward (and back in from) the rear with the exhaust in place.

Oh wait I did have to drop the center exhaust support on one side, after you loosen the center bearing on the shaft. All of the writeups mention that step. But that's it.

Let us know when you figure out the growl! Sorry, I've got nothing to add there.
Did you delete the prop/angle gear in order to run the car as FWD? I'm interested in doing that and looking for a nice comprehensive write-up :wink: :wink:
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

I considered that but decided it was a better route to fix the AWD.

On the S60 R the car was FWD for unknown number of years with everything still intact. Then the collar finally did its damage and the angle gear started grinding internally. I took it off the road, got another nice used low miles AG and collar, replaced the Haldex oil pump, and have AWD again. Here's most of that story but it's not the DIY you were looking for: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=94122

On the XC70 the car came to me as FWD only. To know what I was working with I pulled the AG and prop. AG and collar looked excellent so I put the AG back in, kept the prop out for few weeks until I could do the Haldex pump replacement. Zipped it back up. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=96149

If you can source a good condition AG that hasn't been ruined by a bad collar, it's not a bad job. Does take tools and a space to work in.

There are some really good posts by - Pete - and Blacklab467 for disassembly and reassembly.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Here's a link to a thread that I did last year, it also includes information on running your XC without the angle gear if you elect to do so, or just to troubleshoot propshaft problems or isolate the angle gear. I would seriously consider fixing it, its not that much work or expense (unless you need to fix the DEM). Being that you are in Iowa, it would probably be worthwhile!
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =9&t=95073
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

It’s an excellent DIY once you can look past the fact that the Lab is yellow, not black as advertised.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

Rvolvos
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Post by Rvolvos »

Update:
I managed to drill out the broken bolt with a drill set with carbide tips and an angle drill. Had to sharpen the drill bits 2x.
Went from small to larger in multiple steps allowing me to recenter the drill bit. Used an inspection mirror to verify.
Used a long hardened M8 bolt, the thick washer from the broken bolt and 2 nuts to replace the broken bolt.
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

Rvolvos
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Post by Rvolvos »

Replaced the front cv joint with one from Colorado drive shaft. Great quality and rubber seals have an adhesive layer. The cv joint is much more like the OEM cv joint. Added some more grease in the rear cv joint per advise of Colorado drive shaft.
The intermittent growling noise has gone. And no more leaking of grease from the cv koint and it has no radial play after 200 miles.
I have replaced both front wheel bearings, due to mileage but they where still okay. Replaced the right rear wheel bearing because I could hear noise from the bearing when I had the car on jackstands and running in D.
2 months ago I replaced the angle gear fluid, it did not have metal shavings in the fluid. When replacing the rh wheel bearing I checked the carrier bearing, did turn smoothly.

But still hearing a continuing growling noise becoming loud and clear over 50 mph. Mostly from left front.
Should I cut open my external transmission filter and check for metal shavings? Replace the lh drive shaft? Thanks.
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

Rvolvos
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Post by Rvolvos »

Source of the sound was from the rear differential being low on fluid.
One observation the rear diff was making way less noise with LM and 350ml fluid left (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... y-lm2048kt) than with 500ml of https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-ge ... 977482_0_0
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Good to know what it was thanks.

But dammit I changed out the rear diff fluid on both AWDs using Valvoline 75W-90. Actually I don't understand: so you refilled it to the recommended 500 mL with fresh Valvoline 75W-90 and it sounded worse than when it was running low but had LM in there? Did you then remove the Valvoline and put in LM? Mine don't seem to be noisy at all, before or after the fluid changes (changed them ~last year).
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

Rvolvos
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Joined: 1 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 xc70
Location: Nevada
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Post by Rvolvos »

I don’t think it matters if your rear differential has not run low on oil.
After finding out it was low I replaced it with LM and the noise was almost gone but the removed fluid had a lot of metal particles in it. I assume some damage to the rear differential.
This weekend I replaced the fluid with Valvoline (500 ml) and removed the breeder filter (because it was now leaking from the vent at the bottom) and took it for a test drive and it was very noisy.
See my other thread. viewtopic.php?t=101720
2006 XC70 2.5T 238k


2012 S60T6 95k rip
2011 C30 T5 M66 105k Totalled RIP
2006 V70 2.5T 184k RIP
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99k sold

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