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S70 rough running then stall [Sensor electrical plug corrosion] Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Re: S70 rough running then stall

Post by abscate »

Nope. Not done for. You’ve been cranking it with a no start and putting raw fuel into the cylinders which has lowered the compression. The ultimate manifestation of this is called “ lawn mower syndrome”

Try some starter fluid into the manifold ( brake booster vacuum fitting is a good place for a 3 second burst, 3.14 seconds in Canada) to see if it breathes fire
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Post by patcal »

abscate wrote: 26 Nov 2021, 11:24 Nope. Not done for. You’ve been cranking it with a no start and putting raw fuel into the cylinders which has lowered the compression. The ultimate manifestation of this is called “ lawn mower syndrome”

Try some starter fluid into the manifold ( brake booster vacuum fitting is a good place for a 3 second burst, 3.14 seconds in Canada) to see if it breathes fire
I tried this the other day with no luck. I will try again since I had the plugs out. Thanks.
Pat Callaghan Jr.
98 S70 GLT

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patcal
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Post by patcal »

Well the starting fluid did nothing. Didn't even sputter. I pulled the cap & rotor. It's worn but I don't think it would keep it from starting. What do you think.

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Pat Callaghan Jr.
98 S70 GLT

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

It needs to be scruplously clean f oil and moisture. Scrape all the metal to shiny brass, clean out the oil with brake cleaner , then get it dry as a desert.
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Post by patcal »

abscate wrote: 26 Nov 2021, 13:42 It needs to be scruplously clean f oil and moisture. Scrape all the metal to shiny brass, clean out the oil with brake cleaner , then get it dry as a desert.
I remember filing the rotor smooth & the cap contacts in my old air-cooled VW's. Helped them last a little longer. Of course back then caps & rotors weren't over $100. I will give that a try. Thanks.
Pat Callaghan Jr.
98 S70 GLT

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Post by scot850 »

Your distributor cap looks either damp or oiled on the inside. Check for oil leaking into the distributor body from the cam seal.

Have you checked the pcv system recently with the glove test? It may be your system is blowing oil into the distributor and then the oil will absorb moisture in cold conditions after the engine has run.

Neil.
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Post by patcal »

scot850 wrote: 26 Nov 2021, 15:23 Your distributor cap looks either damp or oiled on the inside. Check for oil leaking into the distributor body from the cam seal.

Have you checked the pcv system recently with the glove test? It may be your system is blowing oil into the distributor and then the oil will absorb moisture in cold conditions after the engine has run.

Neil.
I did check the pcv system a couple of months ago. Nice strong vacuum. I'll clean the cap & rotor & try again. Thanks.
Pat Callaghan Jr.
98 S70 GLT

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Post by erikv11 »

patcal wrote: 26 Nov 2021, 15:30
scot850 wrote: 26 Nov 2021, 15:23 Your distributor cap looks either damp or oiled on the inside. Check for oil leaking into the distributor body from the cam seal.

Have you checked the pcv system recently with the glove test? It may be your system is blowing oil into the distributor and then the oil will absorb moisture in cold conditions after the engine has run.

Neil.
I did check the pcv system a couple of months ago. Nice strong vacuum. I'll clean the cap & rotor & try again. Thanks.
To elaborate on Neil's point: with the rotor off, pull the dust cap and the little metal disc it mounts to can then be removed via a single bolt with a 10 mm socket. Check the cam seal in there, is it seated properly?
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gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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Post by RobTheModd »

Hey bud, curious why you think its anything other than vac related?
I just had a similar issue with my 98, was just a popped off vac tube infront of the throttle body area.

Wish you were local, would just come over and give you a hand.

Have you fixed your Vac Tree? (Since you broke it, this is what I would start with now)
If the car is starting, but stumbling, your fuel/spark/etc is fine.

Answer me these if you can,

1. The S70 is Turbo correct?

2. Will it start and run?

3. Have you checked ALL of your Vac lines?
Like actually checked, Couplers as well (if turbo). Trace them from the Vac tree and manifold all the way to the other end.

4. Are there any Codes being thrown?

5. What caused you to jump straight to fuel issues?

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Post by patcal »

Thanks for the response. I actually got the car started & home yesterday. I had fuel to the injectors & spark at the plugs but no start. I went in to finally check the cam & crank sensor & the connectors were filled with green, fluffy corrosion. I cleaned it out & tested the sensor (they were fine) & it started. I have a new vacuum tree & several feet of hose to replace any that need it.
Pat Callaghan Jr.
98 S70 GLT

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