Any clever ideas for mounting a new double-DIN stereo?

[RickHaleParker]

And good idea about the plate.

Steal the Faceplate off a HU and trim it to fit or get one of the $13.00 universal double DIN trim rings and work it to fit.

Did you check and see if you can take the black plastic rails off the Volvo HU and transfer them to the new HU?

[wrybread]

> Steal the Faceplate off a HU and trim it to fit or get one of the $13.00

It's not so much the trim I'm worried about, I'll work that out possibly by laser cutting something. Just trying to figure out how to secure it without those brackets.

Does anyone know if the trim around the stereo is removable? In this pic that's the trim that surrounds the hazard lights button for example.

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[RickHaleParker]

Does anyone know if the trim around the stereo is removable?

It has been years since I have done this. I might be a little off but you should be able to get it done.

1. Block the wheels or set parking brake.
2. Remove Head unit. Set it aside
3. Reach back and push CCM out. Set it aside.
4. Move gear shifter back.
5. Slide Ash Tray out.
6. Remove the two screws holding the trim in. ( They are hidden behind the Ash Tray ).
7. Lift the trim out by pulling the bottom toward you.
Notes: You might need to remove the coin holder to get enough clearance. The coin holder should just pop out.

To reassemble reverse order and invert actions.

[BEJinFbk]

Does anyone know if the trim around the stereo is removable?

It has been years since I have done this. I might be a little off but you should be able to get it done.

1. Block the wheels or set parking brake.
2. Remove Head unit. Set it aside
3. Reach back and push CCM out. Set it aside.
4. Move gear shifter back.
5. Slide Ash Tray out.
6. Remove the two screws holding the trim in. ( They are hidden behind the Ash Tray ).
7. Lift the trim out by pulling the bottom toward you.
Notes: You might need to remove the coin holder to get enough clearance. The coin holder should just pop out.

To reassemble reverse order and invert actions.

Maybe that’s a Toyota dash you’re remembering?
The Volvo center trim doesn’t come free without a fight.

There are three pieces of dash trim in a 70 series dash.
The glove box - Very easy.
The lower center console between the seats - A bit more effort.

And the upper center trim for Climate Control, radio and ash/coin tray.
These are installed at the factory from the back of the dash and
are not a simple job to remove and replace. There are a number
of fasteners that are driven from the “back” of the dash and were
never intended to be reached by mere mortals... From a build
standpoint, it makes a lot of sense. They assemble the entire
dash on a bench and the bolt the whole thing in at once -Done.
Unfortunately, it impedes removal by end users.

Looks like this:

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.

Your best option would probably be to find a universal sleeve
and trim ring and modify them to suit. Then it just mounts like
the OEM HU and everything is easily reversible for the next guy.

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[MoVolvos]

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Looks like you can access the top after removing the Climate Control Panel. Also looks like the bottom of the stereo cavity is large and flat. Secure the existing bracket on the inside for the stereo to sit on. You can use soft moldings, weather seal or small hoses (all at Lowe's or Home Depot) to wedge the side of the stereo or even larger hoses cut in half. Use this to space the unit properly for the gaps around the edges. Though it's seated on the brackets some cushioning for the space below the units wouldn't hurt.

From the top you can use some shallow screws to attach the unit to the upper brackets. You can also purchase Simpson Plates and bend for brackets if you don't have enough. After that you can get creative to cover the gaps on the face plate.

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These should come in 90 degrees also.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong ... te/3379782

You might consider something of this nature to stick to the sides of the unit for wedging / spacing. Just make sure they are stong enough not to rip when snagged or encounter rough edges. Since the top is secured with screws and the bottom is solid movement should be minimal. It's strong enough not to rip also. Perhaps attach around the side of the face plate so it is easy to cover the gaps all around and no face plate edging/cover is needed.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-20-ft-Blac ... ip/1099657



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[FireFox31]

Those square holes already on the left and right walls of the radio cavity are great for holding the triangular tabs of the sleeve which BEJinFbk posted. There has got to be a sleeve for this radio.

I love your idea of the "fake faceplate" from an old radio. I did the same thing 20 years ago when I replaced my radio (with two single DIN units). I got the Volvo headunit with no CD so it looked even less desirable. I recall that I couldn't simply remove and reuse the face because many of the parts were separate (tape cover, screen, etc). So I did an epic Dremel cutting and epoxy job on the parts to hold everything together. Because I enjoy overdoing things, I ensured that all the buttons, sliders, and knob still moved.

That epoxy work is my Michelangelo's David. Still proud of it.

[wrybread]

Good ideas about the shims, that's probably how I'll do it.

And hilarious about the face plate, exactly the same idea. Except I stripped out all the stuff from the back and went the easy route with hot glue to attach the knobs. Though mine don't move of course...

And I hot glued some fabric on the back of it to protect my touchscreen. Unfortunately I lost the fader knob, but I don't think the crackheads will notice.

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[MoVolvos]

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Creative wrybread! Hot glue has been a friend when installing fake carbon. Just a dab to keep it from coming undone around the back corners.

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[wrybread]

Nice on the carbon trim. Has it held up longterm? I have very mixed feelings about hot glue on anything other than fabric. It always seems to fail, especially in a hot car.

On a sidenote I'm currently working on my rear speakers. The previous owner installed 6" speakers with a janky loose adaptor, and I'd get rattle whenever there was deep bass. I'm sure they'd sound better with new properly installed speakers, but I like to blast music in my car sometimes, especially with my new stereo, and I don't think it's possible to get much out of 6" or even 8" round speakers, especially without proper resonating chambers aka cabinets.

So for now at least I installed some house style 8 ohm bookshelf speakers I had lying around. My amp seems to have no problem driving them and they sound fantastic. Like really really fantastic. My amp's specs show an impedance of 4 to 8 ohms, so I'm hoping they and my amp will be fine longterm. I was planning to connect an old Bazooka powered subwoofer in the trunk, but these have so much bass that I might not need to, for now at least.

They're currently installed in the back seat for testing, but I'm thinking about installing them in the trunk under the speaker hole, aimed up at the rear windshield. But the hole isn't quite large enough for both the woofer and the tweeter... Is it the worst idea on the planet to take a sawzall and enlarge that hole a bit?

Also I vaguely remember reading that Volvo wires the speakers in some special way (series'd or parallel, can't remember) that changes the impedance. Maybe they're expecting 8 ohm speakers? Something like that. If that's the case would I be better off disconnecting the rear door speakers, since they're not really doing much anymore?

[SirBrickWagon]

i probably couldn't find it for the life of me, but i saw a guy who had one specifically for p80s that fit universally to any HU