Rescuing Geronimo the 2000 V70

[abscate]

Remember to torch the inboard of the wheel bearing bolt, where the threads seize, not the outboard. Worst case you have to grind the head off once in a while , not too bad

Dont forget the axle seals either , Volvo added them on future repairs

[454cid]

Dont forget the axle seals either , Volvo added them on future repairs

Axle seal where? Backside of the knuckle, maybe?

[abscate]

Dont forget the axle seals either , Volvo added them on future repairs

Axle seal where? Backside of the knuckle, maybe?

Correct, thread here

viewtopic.php?t=39357&hilit=Axle+seal&start=10

[454cid]

Dont forget the axle seals either , Volvo added them on future repairs

Axle seal where? Backside of the knuckle, maybe?

Correct, thread here

viewtopic.php?t=39357&hilit=Axle+seal&start=10

Thank you.... the thread indicates the P80's didn't come with them originally, which may be why I have a slight hum at highway speeds in my 850. I thought it strange that car with less them 100K miles (when I bought it) would have an audible bearing already.

[FireFox31]

I finally removed the stuck front wheel hub bolt and changed the hub. It took me a smooth 7.5 hours on this trip and 5 hours on the first time I tried but failed. To remove the bolt, I used an Irwin bolt extractor but not on the external Torx head (which would quickly crumble to a point, I've learned). I used a larger one to reach over the head and grab the flange. It was a tight fit so I hammered it on to the flange, digging grooves for the extractor metal to sink in to. Perhaps it helped that I used a blow torch earlier and lightly tapped on the head and body around the threads. Nah, I'll give credit to the extractors.

The stuck bolt was on the right caliper, the bottom front one. Perhaps that takes on more salt than others. See the picture for comparison between three bolts on the same wheel.

Every DIY person should have Irwin 394001 and Irwin 394002 bolt extractors.

[BlackBart]

Impressive!

[850oldschool]

I never even knew there were extractors like that until you showed them, and you found a great application for them. I'm surprised the rusty threads on the bolt aren't drenched with penetrating oil, which would help get through the threaded hole in the knuckle.

Mine weren't very rusty when I did that job, glad I anti-seized them!

[foggydogg]

An old-school truck mechanic I knew believed in a couple heat cycles, then once the fastener budged a bit, he hit it with the magic juice ( he was a Kroil kind of guy; I have some but it's a bit spendy .)
Good thing you don't actually like that car.

[abscate]

Th extractors are also consumable. I’ve found after some bad boys they do strip out and end up replacing them,

Important on those wheel bearing hub bolts, and heat cycles, three minimum , are the key to getting things loose, not mechanical force.

[FireFox31]

Geronimo got a new tie rod end, finally. Was a pretty easy job. The lock nut won't spin any closer to the steering rack since the threads are rusted. I'm hoping the alignment shop can simply thread in the inner tie rod if they need to take up slack.

Geronimo also got a set of TYC headlights. I found one nearly new light and turn signal at a junkyard in a stripped 2000 V70 which was being filled with scrap metal, soon to depart for the crusher. I'm hoping to find a similarly nice used right TYC headlight so I can move the brand new one it temporarily has to my other V70.

One of the Centric rebuilt rear calipers seems to have seized shut. It's only 15 months old. Before installing the calipers, I carefully checked them for piston movement and problems with dust boots. I'm incensed that these calipers are rebuilt so terribly that they waste my time to replace them, and as an emergency. This is why I paid to have my new Volvo rebuilt V70 calipers powder coated, doing the rebuilder's job for them.

Important on those wheel bearing hub bolts, and heat cycles, three minimum , are the key to getting things loose, not mechanical force.

Thanks for reminding me to apply heat to the threads and not the head. I'll try that when I do the other side, which I'm pretty sure is starting to fail. Hopefully my Makerspace will have its Miniducter inductive heating device by then. If not for the hub bolts, I'll definitely need it for the exhaust manifold bolts.