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Is it time for a new automatic gearbox ?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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greffel
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Re: Is it time for a new automatic gearbox ?

Post by greffel »

Hey
There was no spring and I managed the keep the seals in place. :)
The gear box feels like it's in good condition. the only thing so far is that I was expecting a valve body with the letter "C" but is was i "A"

The vale body in my broken transmission was "B" and the new one I bought was "B"
Polestar 2 - All electric daily driver :shock:
S60 2.5T AWD with a little bit more power :evil:

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Good job, I hope you've finally cured your transmission woes, Did you find that your shift flares are now gone also?
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

greffel
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Post by greffel »

Blacklab467 wrote: 28 Oct 2021, 09:59 Good job, I hope you've finally cured your transmission woes, Did you find that your shift flares are now gone also?
On Saturday we will know if the shift flare is gone :)
But with a completely "new" gearbox it must be impossible to inherit those problems.

Last time we talked was about my bewel gear.....it still work perfekt after new bearings :)
Polestar 2 - All electric daily driver :shock:
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firstv70volvo
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Post by firstv70volvo »

greffel wrote: 28 Oct 2021, 07:40 Hey
There was no spring and I managed the keep the seals in place. :)
The gear box feels like it's in good condition. the only thing so far is that I was expecting a valve body with the letter "C" but is was i "A"

The vale body in my broken transmission was "B" and the new one I bought was "B"
In the ATSG manual they mention that the rev C valve body is identical to the no ID (oldest rev) valve body except for differences to some spring calibrations, the valve body castings, separator plates and gaskets are identical. The rev A and rev B valve bodies are the same in terms of castings, plates and gaskets with some spring calibration differences.
I think what's more important than the valve body revisions is whether the valve body is worn or not and if the solenoids are sticking, or not. Keep the newer valve body you have if you can in case there's any problems with the R valve body.
Because you previously has a 3-4 shift problem you might want to look at the transmission you pulled out of the car, I suspect you'll find some badly worn 4-5 clutch friction plates. If you do find an obvious problem like badly worn frictions you'll know the valve body likely wasn't causing the problem.

greffel
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Post by greffel »

Success !!
Not to bad for someone working behind a desk =)

First test drive it was shifting a little bit hard, I guess the old adaptation was completely different.
The I did the oil counter reset, adaptation reset and relearn
Shifts so fast and so smooth :) And no flare from 3-4 !!!
Happy
Last edited by greffel on 30 Oct 2021, 09:40, edited 1 time in total.
Polestar 2 - All electric daily driver :shock:
S60 2.5T AWD with a little bit more power :evil:

greffel
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Post by greffel »

I will post back here when I get the old gear box up on the work bench. Something strange is going on with the 4-5 assembly
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

Congrats!

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firstv70volvo
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Post by firstv70volvo »

greffel wrote: 30 Oct 2021, 09:38 Success !!
Not to bad for someone working behind a desk =)

First test drive it was shifting a little bit hard, I guess the old adaptation was completely different.
The I did the oil counter reset, adaptation reset and relearn
Shifts so fast and so smooth :) And no flare from 3-4 !!!
Happy
That's great news, nice work, it's so good to hear all your hard work paid off and now you have a transmission that shifts well. Will be interested to hear what you find with the original transmission.

Here's something from another post and by volvolugnut, it says it all...

"Many a time while wrenching I learned too late I should have stopped work before I broke something.
Hang in there. This is doable.
The satisfaction of a job is directly proportional to the difficulty."
volvolugnut

vtl
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Post by vtl »

I think the most important single piece in any transmission rebuild is a new valve body...

greffel
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Post by greffel »

Hello again.
First of the "new" gearbox is still working just fine, as an extra bonus the transmission swap also cured my problem with long crank times. Sometimes the car would take extra long time to start.
But that problem seems to be gone also :) :)

I'm now thinking of do a "light" rebuild of the old transmission and sell .


First off, I hade to use a puller to be able to get the drum of the shaft.


With the drum of I inspected everything and found this marks!!! Probably the cause why I had to use a puller ...
20211121_140143.jpg
Now to the really good stuff :)
Heat mark is never a good sign I guess ....
20211121_140925.jpg
Removing the snap ring and a completely destroyed clutch pack was found ....
Not a single bit of friction material and the metal rings is not in the best shape. :o
20211121_141029.jpg
20211121_141214.jpg
Polestar 2 - All electric daily driver :shock:
S60 2.5T AWD with a little bit more power :evil:

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