DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

[akwon]

dosbricks and erikv11: thanks for the advice!

I managed to get the bearing assembly back in the canister without having to remove the axle nut. On closer inspection the inner boot didn't look too bad, while the outer boot was definitely showing cracks. My tinkerer's instinct wanted me to pull the CV axle and do a proper cleaning and re-greasing but I just didn't have the time or proper tools (this is my daily driver). I would have had to buy an impact wrench for $200.00 (CAD) or get a garage to do the whole thing (with new boots) for about the same.

With the CV axle back in, the rest of the components went in without any trouble. Good tip: sand the brackets on the subframe where the control arm bushings fit in. Made it so much easier to fit them in and positioned.

[cn90]

..."Three-jaw puller"....I can say, I tried this on Saturday, does not work at all. The flange does not have enough material. I tried for 30 min, it kept slipping so then said I fuck it very loudly and the moment of clarity helped me move on.

Old post from "mecheng", but I saw a nice thread where someone used a Tierod puller tool to undo the CV Joint:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... er-CV-Boot


I will upload the photo here b/c I think this is a cool photo:

[erikv11]

Hmmmm I'm not so sure that 2-jaw puller is such a smart idea. I suppose if you get desperate and simply cannot break it free any other way then why not try, but keep in mind that 2-jaw puller is working via pulling on one or more rollers, rather than on the flange, that is the reason it might work. And that pressure may scuff or otherwise ruin the roller(s) in contact, if the joint is truly so stuck that it is difficult to remove.

So a 3-jaw puller can't grip the flange, a 2-jaw puller pulls unevenly on the roller axes so is most useful when you don't need it (when the joint is not stuck); these pullers would seem to be last resort techniques for removing the CV.

[cn90]

1. I don't think so, these tie rod pullers are good to go as long as one takes precaution. When you think about it, these rollers are under tons of tons of torque when the vehicle is moving. When you step on the gas pedal, there is tremendous amount of torque applied on the "3 wheels" on the tripod and "the 35 needle bearings inside each wheel". They are designed for very high stress load. The binding force between the axle shaft's spline and the CV joint itself is not much. I remember it was easy to come off. So I think it is safe to use the tie rod puller for the purpose of separating the CV Joint from the splines.


2. Alternatively, one can use a "bearing separator" + a puller.
Just place the "bearing separator" below the round portion of the CV joint, then pull.


3. Back to the 3-jaw puller, I am posting a photo from Range Rover forum. People have no issue using the 3-jaw puller.
If it slips off, then I guess a zip tie around the jaws will help hold them in place...
Just a thought...

[erikv11]

OK this minutiae is a bit academic but check my post, the potential issue is of course not torque forces, it is the compression force localized to one spot on the bearing surface. Why (potentially) ruin it if you don't have to.

Also of course and apparently not clear in my post above: a typical, easy-to-remove CV should not be damaged by a puller, I agree. But easy-to-remove is the case where a puller clearly isn't even needed, in that case you just tap it off with a punch on the flange. For me the whole point of the puller discussion is you may need it to deal with a difficult CV. But sure, you can use it on an easy one too.

Presumably the Range Rover CV has more flange to grab under. Zip ties might be a clever solution for a P80 CV, good idea.

[mecheng]

I just did the drivers side on the 850, big split in the boot. I had one heck of a time trying to get the axle removed from the trans.

I tried pulling with all my body weight, no affect. I tried prying with a screw driver, it was tough because there is very little room and it didn't work.

I finally got it out with a pry bar, the flat type used for home renos. Use the hook end (shown in red rectangle) and pry against the trans case. Use wood if you are worried about damaging the case. I found it difficult to keep a piece of wood so I pried against one of the aluminum ribs and it did not cause any damage. I had to use quite a bit of force before it would release. Another tip, put the trans in neutral to spin the drive shaft and try prying at different locations. Eventually it will come out, but I had my doubts, I think the retaining ring gets caught and turning the drive shaft helps re-seat it.

When inserting the axle back in the trans, use a generous amount of trans fluid on the end to help it engage.

[erikv11]

Glad you got it done well.

Surprised its not in this thread already (the thread is so all over the place!), but I don't think it is: A wedge is a good solution for removing a sticky driver's side CV. Like a 5/8 cold chisel or a piece of wood shaped like a triangle. You drive it straight up between the trans and the inner CV. Pops right out safely and quickly, even the difficult ones. Been posted about many times but here is where I learned about it: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/83 ... side-axle/

[mecheng]

Interesting idea, but how did you find room. I'm assuming at the 6 o'clock position. I used my pry bar at the 3 o'clock position.

On my S70, I was able to remove it without any tools, not sure why it was so much easier.

I can't see any pictures on the link, I'm assuming this is the type of chisel you used. You then hammered the end?

[erikv11]

The pic is gone in the ancient thread yes, alas ... but yep that will work, mine is a black Craftsman which is probably better for this job because it holds the hex shape all the way to the end and you can use a socket on it if you want to. There is no need for a beefy striking surface this is a very low impact application. The Craftsman chisel may be shorter, too. Or cut/use a tapered block of wood.

6 o'clock, three moderate taps with the 3 lb hammer, and "click" it is out. There is tons of room, that is no issue at all.

[xHeart]

Update: 1998 S70 GLT with 167K miles. Dealer replaced the R axle @ 130K miles using NAPA part.
The metal parts (CV joints, shaft etc.) are fine but the outer rubber boot split after some 37K miles.

If you read the above posts on VW-Audi boots, they fit perfectly on the INNER side.

In summary:

INNER BOOT:
- Use VW-Audi (1994 model 100 sedan); GKN 300597, Audi 893498201B, about $10.
L = 88mm, diameter 21mm and 82mm.

OUTER BOOT:
a. Non-Turbo: GKN 300427, Volvo 31256235
L = 84mm, diameter 22mm and 82mm.
This is what I used b/c the dealer replaced the R axle using Non-Turbo part, even though the car is Turbo.
This tells you that the axles (for Turbo vs Non-Turbo) are interchangeable.

b. Turbo: GKN 300439
L = 84mm, diameter 24mm and 92mm.
Use this only if you are absolutely sure your axle has this size.
When in doubt, jack up the car, remove the wheel and measure the diameters.

Some photos...

Our 1997 850 n/a with Raxles rebuild passenger side INNER boot is starting to split after 70,000 miles -- grease has escaped. The GKN 31256235 for OUTER is available but GKN for INNER is none.

How to proceed?