Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Post by **misha** » 23 Aug 2009, 19:25

Could be that you didn't re-soldered it well.Did you re-solder all bad joints or just power joints?I would double check solders and would try again.

You said that problem appeared after rainy day...did you sealed the unit well?It takes about 12-24hours for silicone to dry.

seanm3113 · Post by **seanm3113** » 24 Aug 2009, 17:44

Well, I believe I did re-seal it well, but I will have to check it out. When I took it out initially, I found two spider nests in it and one dead spider between the metal cylinders. I also noticed that i could see a part of the one of the metal cylinders even after re-installing it. I would have thought there would be a gasket or something.

nightc1 · Post by **nightc1** » 01 Sep 2009, 08:20

I really appreciate this write up. Of note, my 1999 V70 had a slightly different board than the one pictured on the first page and the one czechm8 pictured on page 3. I took a picture of it but the main difference is if you look at czechm8's circled spots (page 3) the ones that had 2 pins noted (and only 2 pins, no extra solder spots next to the pins) on my board had 4 pins. MANY of the pins in those other spots on my board were slightly orange/red at the base (as if rusted) and showing without any solder on the top end. So I could see the actual loop in the pin at many places on the board! I flowed all of the pins noted and added some solder to the ones that were not finished.

Upon starting the car, Brake&ABS lights were OUT! No need to get to 20mph. I was shocked.

The hardest part of this fix BY FAR was just getting that dang case open. I used the 5/32 socket in a small socket set I have (instead of my big socket set) and it worked perfectly for removing the screws. But getting the case open was just crazy. I ended up snapping off much of the plastic around the outer lip of the case. I tried the "screwed to a board" technique to no avail. In the end I used clear silicon caulk to seal it back up, so the black shows through fine and it doesn't look too messed up.

The only other part that was hard ended up being the multi-pin data cable. I ended up snapping the cap off of the cable since I didn't know that the rails its on slid and initially the rails didn't align with the holes on the bottom which caused much frustration and the "snap". In the end once I turned my brain on, I figured it out and just ziptied the hinged part where it snapped. I can still remove it, if need be, and ultimately it doesn't do a whole lot of good anyway as there was plenty of dust and nastiness inside the cap. I may end up going back and plastic baggy'ing with zip ties around the cable end just to make it water sealed. As it is, I can't see how this is all that protective.

Anyway great write up. Great post czechm8 (on page 3). It may have been your only one, but the expanded solder points made a huge difference in my fix.

Thanks to everyone that contributed. I could have blown $100+ and sent it out, but even for an amateur solderer this was not that technically hard a project. I've soldered chips and wires that were much smaller than this of the few modifications/fixes i have done.

Post by **IronMike** » 03 Sep 2009, 21:00

Those without magnifying glass: take a macro pic with a digital cam and look at it on the computer, real nice!

Post by **IronMike** » 05 Sep 2009, 19:14

Extracted in 5 minutes (really).
Opened in 15 minutes.
Soldered in 5 minutes (power leads were totally fissured).
Resealed in 5 minutes.
Dry overnight.
Re-installed in 5 minutes.

THANK YOU!

FYI: I opened mine by using a dremel all the way around the sides and then prying with a big flat screwdriver as carefully as I could taking my time.

Post by **IronMike** » 07 Sep 2009, 17:34

By the way, has anyone else experienced a situation that when the ABS and TRACS lights go on, if you "blip" the throttle when going slow, the car seems to keep the speed more than when the lights aren't on? In other words, it sort of surges instead of coming back down to base idle, but IN GEAR! I almost rear ended someone when this happened the first time.

Jesus · Post by **Jesus** » 08 Sep 2009, 01:41

Hi

I wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this amazing thread, because my car has been well and truly up shit creak of late!

I had loads of lights, including the flashing forward arrow, break system failure, ABS, Tracs, Engine Management, no speedo, no cruise and various issues that were making the car almost undrivable.

These were the tracs kicking in (i presume) when going around corners and causing the steering wheel to shake hard and speed to drop to a level that caused me to be beeped at on roundabouts (<10) and it used to go into safe mode on almost every journey.

I hope all the problems were down to this unit as i spent some time yesterday resoldering the unit.

My god it's hard to get open. That alone took me about 2 hours! Once open i was really surprised mine had no membrane and no cracks were visible. So convinced there had to be something i missed, i got the Maglite out, along with a magnifying glass and to my relief found at least half the tiny connections were cracked along with the power. Seeing as I had to resolder most I decided to resolder all 31 connections just to ensure all my bases were covered.

So, I may not have the results yet, the unit is going back on later, but just wanted to point out that every connection needs to be checked, maybe just resolder them all just in case.

Thanks again.

Jesus · Post by **Jesus** » 08 Sep 2009, 11:44

Installed a few hours ago, everything now seems hunky dorey. Thanks!

andyleonard · Post by **andyleonard** » 11 Sep 2009, 19:11

96 850. ABS light on, cleaned 4 sensors, module out, several pins solder cracked, resoldered, checked jints under a microscope, reinstalled, ABS light still on. What next?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Sep 2009, 19:16

Have you driven the car yet? It needs to hit - give or take - 20 MPH to reset in most cases.

...Lee

Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Re: Do it yourself ABS module repair.