Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 23 Jan 2010, 18:19

The cluster problem is confirmed with the pictures. You will need to remove the cluster and take it apart in order to fix it. The details are in this writeup:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2005/0 ... ix-how-to/

There is much more information and more tips if you click on the Comment on this odometer fix procedure link.

Once the cluster is apart move the needles to their full range and release them, they should reset at zero on the scales. It can take several tries to get the needle to settle into the correct position.

...Lee

Rb_newsletter · Post by **Rb_newsletter** » 02 Feb 2010, 15:55

Rb_newsletter wrote:I have a 2000 Volvo S70 GLT SE. I removed my ABS unit today, opened it, and re-soldered the connections. Two things I found were
1) I didn't see any grip washers outside the box
2) I didn't see any silicone covering the pcb inside the box.
Are those missing or is it like that in this car model?

After soldering I fixed the unit back without silicone seal for testing purpose. I still see the check engine light on. However, ABS and Tracs lights are gone; but those lights are always intermittent, only check engine light was on always. I tried driving around in freeway for 20 minutes, but no use, still check engine light is on.

Is there a way I can reset the check engine lights myself? I tried searching the forums but could not find anything.

I cleared the obd codes after that check engine light did not appear again. Before clearing 2 codes were there
1) P1618
2) P0722
It looks like the above codes were generated when ABS was bad. I hope that abs/check engine light problems were gone.

Thanks to all forum members.

A tip to remove ABS: Use smaller length rachet; that helps to reach under easily. I was trying with longer rachet for long time and after I borrowed my friends smaller length rachet, within 5 minutes ABS came out.

sixvolvos · Post by **sixvolvos** » 05 Feb 2010, 15:51

Group:
I recently joined this thread because I have a possible ABS problem.
I notice that silicon sealer is frequently used to seal up the unit after internal repair.
Be advised that bathtub sealer and similar products contain acetic acid whose fumes will quickly corrode the internal connections. There are similar-looking products for electronic applications, but they may be hard to find.

I suggest using only the tinyest possible amount of sealer. What is on the outside is of no concern, just what is on the inside. I would use windshield sealer which does not cure as the sealer for the joint, then a number of wraps of electrical tape on the outside.

-- sixvolvos

DIYVOLVO · Post by **DIYVOLVO** » 02 Mar 2010, 23:23

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences on this ABS repair. I would like to contribute a close up photo of the cracked solder connection. You can see the crack in the photo as well as the conformal coating that I had to pick off with tweezers. I hope this gives others a bit more encouragement to tackle this on their own. I did this repair on my XC70 1998. Not too hard to remove the module but getting it apart was a lot of work. I used a Dremel to cut around the seam. That was the most difficult part.

jjsull · Post by **jjsull** » 20 Mar 2010, 18:22

I just did a successful repair on my ABS unit. This tread is very accurate. I found that using a heat gun on the silicon seal followed by prying with a 1 inch wood chisel worked well. The process still took 20 minutes but patience won out.

After closely inspecting the pins outlined in the post I found that I had a total of 6 that looked bad. I was also relieved to find that all the pins circle as possible problems are in the connector so you won't be applying any heat to electronic components. It makes some sense because excess heat will be generated by any flaws in the mechanical connections.

The most obvious repairs were needed to the primary power in pin joints.

Thank you all great directions.

Jerry

Geevs · Post by **Geevs** » 06 Apr 2010, 13:44

I used a 1/4" stubby ratchet with a swivel head. It helps I got small and flexible wrists.

Update on my case: my attempts to repair my module last year did not turn out well. So I left the ABS module plugged in the modulator but disconnect the power cable to the ABS pump. I have been driving like this for almost a year now without any braking problems other than the ABS/TRAC light.

This weekend, I got lucky and bought a used ABS module from the yard for cheap. Soon after I swapped it in, I started the car and the ABS/TRACs light went away. Took it for a short drive and no CELs. Later on, took the car for a longer drive and started to feel some slight pulsations on the brakes but the ABS/TRACs light did not come on. This is weird. Could my prolonged driving with an unpowered the ABS pump have caused any damage to the pump/system? The braking system worked fine the whole time.

Thanks.

3uzfte · Post by **3uzfte** » 22 Apr 2010, 15:02

Hello,
Don't mean to bring up an old thread. I just wanted to say thank you to the OP, Ozark Lee, and all the others that added the information. I was working on a 98' V70 and suggested to my customer that we send it in for a rebuild. Well after cruising this wonderful site, I got everything I needed, and sure enough repaired the car. I was a little worried as right when I started the car the lights came right back on, but I backed out of the driveway and the lights disappeared and have yet to return. I joined this site and posted to say thanks.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Apr 2010, 19:49

Welcome to MVS,

I'm glad it worked out for you! It sounds like you are a Pro so don't be bashful about posting.

...Lee

Post by **Matty Moo** » 08 May 2010, 21:40

sixvolvos wrote:Group:
I recently joined this thread because I have a possible ABS problem.
I notice that silicon sealer is frequently used to seal up the unit after internal repair.
Be advised that bathtub sealer and similar products contain acetic acid whose fumes will quickly corrode the internal connections. There are similar-looking products for electronic applications, but they may be hard to find.

I suggest using only the tinyest possible amount of sealer. What is on the outside is of no concern, just what is on the inside. I would use windshield sealer which does not cure as the sealer for the joint, then a number of wraps of electrical tape on the outside.

-- sixvolvos

GE silicone II is about the only readily available silicone I have found that doesn't contain acetic acid and is safe for electronics. I use it all the time, and it's available at just about every decent hardware store.

If it smells like vinegar, don't use it. RTV, regular silicone, etc. The acetic acid in regular silicone isn't good for electronics. At all. As it off-gases, everything in the case can be affected over time. How long? who knows, but better safe than sorry.

walkerc2 · Post by **walkerc2** » 16 May 2010, 15:26

Well I finally broke down and decided to do the ABS module repair. I went to Harbor freight and bought the Torx Socket set for $8. The only one they have is a deep set which is a pain on the Top Front bolt since the pipe is in the way. I removed my battery and the air cleaner box since it gave me a lot more room to move around (have radio code handy for re-install). Prior to starting the repair I had intermittent Tracs/ABS lights and the Check engine light was on continuously. I went to Autozone and they pulled the code for the check engine light which was a P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Small). I tightened the gas cap which is what it normally is but they would not reset the code so I drove with the light on since it did not seem to affect anything. Back to the ABS removal, I was able to get 3 of the 4 Torx bolts out with very little problem but that 4th bolt (upper front) I ended up stripping using a 5/32 socket. I grabbed the Dremel tool and started grinding, after about 5 minutes I was able to remove the module and then remove what was left of the bolt. I followed the recommendation of screwing the module down to a piece of wood (my workbench) and used my heat gun and a gasket scrapper to pry off the lid (patience is key). Once the lid was removed I cleaned all of the old black rubber out of the channel using a set of picks I got at Harbor Freight. I used a Weller 100 watt hand held solder gun to re-solder all of the pins. I did have to scrape away the protective silicone in these areas but it was easy. I put a bead of clear RTV in the channel of the module and popped the lid back on then used a couple of clamps to hold it all together over night.
Since i was now short one of the Torx bolts I went searching for a 4mmx50mm bolt to replace it.

I found a bag of 4 at Lowe's for $2 that were perfect. Instead of putting the old semi-stripped Torx bolts back in I used the new bolts which have a 7mm head on them with a very easy to find 7mm socket. After putting everything back in reconnecting the wires I fired up the car. The Tracs/ABS lights were still on but the Check Engine light was off. I backed out of the driveway and drove maybe 100 feet and Tracs/ABS lights went off. I will report back if anything changes but all in all this was a pretty easy fix and i saved a ton of money over sending it in or buying new.

Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Re: Do it yourself ABS module repair.