Bought replacement trans for 850 but it's DIFFERENT??HELP!!
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Replacing an Volvo 850 Transmission
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phoenix_iii
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 August 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
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phoenix_iii
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 August 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Good News!
Trans is IN. VSS is NOT hooked up. Mechanic says the car drivers perfectly. Shifts correctly, pulls well, etc.
VSS not hooked up = no Speedo, and check engine light
He is going to try hooking up the VSS to the 'new' spot by splicing the wires. If that doesn't work, I will take it upon myself to do the ABS wheel sensor trick.
Trans is IN. VSS is NOT hooked up. Mechanic says the car drivers perfectly. Shifts correctly, pulls well, etc.
VSS not hooked up = no Speedo, and check engine light
He is going to try hooking up the VSS to the 'new' spot by splicing the wires. If that doesn't work, I will take it upon myself to do the ABS wheel sensor trick.
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo
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phoenix_iii
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 August 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Once I/we get the VSS from the ABS or the actual VSS and speedo works and code is cleared, I will post actual trans #s (I have them written down somewhere) so we know what works...sseir39 wrote:Happy to hear things are progressing. Be sure to keep us informed as you are breaking important ground for a bunch of us.
=) Goodmorning... sleepy. Just wanted to reply. I know this thread will be useful to some one some day.
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo
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phoenix_iii
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 August 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Everything works perfectly now. I did the wiring trick and everything works! Driving 100 mile trip now to test it for sure... will post all details soon!!!!
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
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- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
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Good suggestion, Dick....it's done!sseir39 wrote:Great! Hope this solution gets into the repair or replacement section.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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phoenix_iii
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 August 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
The Project:
Take a 96+ Volvo 850 Turbo trans and put it in my 95 850 Turbo
The Problem:
The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) wiring is different/reads from a different spot on the 'newer' trans. The original spot on the newer trans is filled in, and the heads on the connectors are different. Despite being both two posts/wires, my mechanic said he hooked up the wiring directly to the new trans, and it did not work. Taking his word on this, I moved onto the following.
The Solution:
I used thick cable (10gauge, when the oem wiring is 18gauge/16gauge), because that's what I had. Pics up when I get them off my phone. I can verify wire colors when I get under there to finish it up myself (needed more heatshrink!) But it's great. Car actually would downshift aggressively in sport mode... the flashing up arrow... gone, the flashing econ/sport mode button, solid! =)
p3[/b]
Take a 96+ Volvo 850 Turbo trans and put it in my 95 850 Turbo
The Problem:
The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) wiring is different/reads from a different spot on the 'newer' trans. The original spot on the newer trans is filled in, and the heads on the connectors are different. Despite being both two posts/wires, my mechanic said he hooked up the wiring directly to the new trans, and it did not work. Taking his word on this, I moved onto the following.
The Solution:
- Take the two wires (yellow and black, green and yellow) coming from the transmission wiring harness (and would 'normally' plug into your 'older' trans), and cut the connector off.
Go over to your drivers side wheel. Remove the wheel. Properly unplug the abs sensor (while squeezing the obvious tab, wiggle it side to side to help break the 'crud' seal, then pull up and out). Cut the end off the ABS wheel sensor, but *leave enough room to splace more wire onto it!*... like an inch and half if you can.
Solder, and heatshrink tube, about 2 inches of wire to the ABS wheel sensor head (hence you left the extra working room). Make sure to splice and expose both ends of the new wire first, no need to solder/heatshrink and THEN try to remove the shielding on the other end. All we are doing here is giving you more room to work, or if you bugger up the end, you can try again
Solder and heatshrink tube a good foot (or two, I really only needed like 18 inches and that was almost too much) wire to the two transmission wiring harness wires.
Solder and heatshrink tube a good few inches to go onto the other end of the ABS wiring that you cut.
Well great, now you've got six wires hanging around, when you started off with 2. wth? =) Easy. If you are nutty like me, you want to check your work at this point. Simply plug in the ABS head again, and twist the new wires together (the black wire from abs goes back to black wire from abs wiring harness and brown(or dirty, dirty red?) wire goes back to brown (or dirty, dirty red). Turn car on, start car if crazy (I had mine secured on jack stands, both wheels in the air). No ABS codes. If your ABS and TRACS light is on, then you may have swapped wires. Oops. Swap them, and try test again. Idiot lights go out when hooked up correctly, may have to clear engine codes later.
Alright, now it's time for the big test. Twist in your wires, bumble-bee (yellow/black from the trans harness) to the brown wire from ABS wiring, and the green/yellow from trans harness to the black. Now originally, I had my wiring at this part backwards, and it didn't work, and I think it threw up ABS/TRAC light too (wth?). Anyway, if adding this wiring makes things worse (doesn't work or you get idiot lights), just REVERSE the wiring, meaning put yellow/black to BLACK on the abs harness and yellow/green to BROWN on the abs harness. I've done it, nothing caught fire. =)
When I first had this working, I thought it was FUBAR, because at idle (make sure to put the car in DRIVE. I had it in park and thought it didn't work! speedo won't go no matter how high you rev in PARK!!). Anyway, in drive, at 'idle' with foot off the brake, it shot up to 15mph, then 25! Then back down to 15. This is NORMAL and you are ready to close shop! Remember, with the front of the car on the ground, you get a few mph. Take 3000lbs off of the car, and 'idle'/coast = 15mph+ I had one wheel off too.
I used thick cable (10gauge, when the oem wiring is 18gauge/16gauge), because that's what I had. Pics up when I get them off my phone. I can verify wire colors when I get under there to finish it up myself (needed more heatshrink!) But it's great. Car actually would downshift aggressively in sport mode... the flashing up arrow... gone, the flashing econ/sport mode button, solid! =)
p3[/b]
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Nice job! This will be a great addition to the repair database. If anyone needs this info, it's now here on MVS!
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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phoenix_iii
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 August 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Original 95 850 Turbo Trans
'Made in Japan'
Serial...
50-42
1280
560
--------
Replacement from 96+ 850 Turbo
Made in Japan
50-42LE
1208
840
'Made in Japan'
Serial...
50-42
1280
560
--------
Replacement from 96+ 850 Turbo
Made in Japan
50-42LE
1208
840
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo
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