240 dies when I shift immediately after starting

[billofdurham]

I have done that on many cars but not Volvo. VADIS has a kit listed as part #271131 (272602). I can't find any at FCP or IPD but that doesn't mean they don't stock them. A telephone call or an email may turn up something.

Bill.

[rgk]

I finally fixed the brakes this weekend. It took me a good three or four months to finish the job, during which I encountered a whole host of interesting problems.

For one, the electronic sensor on the fluid pressure regulator valve was leaking. A local mechanic gave me a new sensor for $13. It plugged the leak, though I can't be sure whether it's actually sensing anything.

After that the rear left brake hose became plugged. I heard from another local mechanic that a straightened coat hanger works to de-clog it in a pinch, but I tore the damn thing in half upon removal. The car stayed in my yard for about a month before I could shell out the twenty bucks for a new hose.

Finally, I realized (as suspected) that there was a lot of air coming through the bleeder valves upon bleeding with a hand pump. So I took each bleeder screw out and wrapped it with thread tape. This worked like a charm for most of the valves, but some of them were still kind of loose. I could still hear and feel air coming through from somewhere, so I tightened all the brake lines leading to that particular caliper.

Interestingly, I also discovered that I had attached some of the brake lines to the wrong hole in the caliper, because some of the bleeder valves were taking fluid from the wrong part of the reservoir - lower valves draining from the upper part, and so on.

I fixed this issue on one side and let it go on the other, as I had already used too many bottles of brake fluid for the trouble. Besides, I don't believe this will really affect my braking.

So the brakes work well, though I suspect there is still a tiny bit of air left in the front system. I believe all the connections have been properly tightened, but can't be 100% sure. One solution would be to disconnect the entire system (for the umpteenth time) and put thread tape on each connection - something that would require, again, a lot of work, a huge mess, and a whole lot of brake fluid. They work well enough and the car stops quickly enough for me to take a break (ha ha) for now. As for now, I'm enjoying simply being able to drive my car.

Now, I know what some of you may say. You may say that any air in the system is unacceptable, and I agree. But the car is in such condition that I can't really go fast enough in order to not be able to stop fast enough. You may call this faulty reasoning, but if you would have spent three or four months working on this brake system, you would feel the same. Like I said, I need some breathing room with this brake project. With the knowledge and experience I have gained, I feel confident that I will go back and fix it completely - someday.

I found some vacuum leaks that were contributing to the stalling, but either I have not found all of them, or there is another problem. The car stalls upon start much less frequently, but the problem is still evidently there. It's not bad enough to require immediate diagnosis. Furthermore, the car is extremely loud, especially in first gear, which I attribute partly to an old and damaged exhaust system, and partly to something of which I am not yet aware.

On a more positive note, I replaced the lug nuts on the rear left wheel. The car was making a whole lot of noise and vibrating erratically. I pulled over and noticed that the lug nuts were loose and that the wheel was cutting into the lug nuts - some of them were almost cut in half! A lot of work and a little bit of ingenuity went into this project - it required dismantling the parking brake and making a whole lot of noise. The lug nuts were in there tighter than you can imagine.

First I tried using a C clamp, but that broke in half. I might have gotten one nut out by putting my hand behind it and hitting it with hammer, but I couldn't reach the others. I tried putting the car in neutral in order to be able to spin the ... the ... what's it called? The thing with the bearings that holds the rear wheel. That didn't work all too well either so I took the ... thing out, placed it vertically against the ground, and beat on the lug nuts until they came out. It made me feel good to do so.

I suppose next I will check the spark plugs, drain the radiator, check the automatic transmission fluid, the power steering fluid, and begin thinking about an electronic overhaul as well as a fuel pressure check.

The clock only works sporadically (it's kind of subversive and charming), which is probably due to a faulty wire, but I don't want to dismantle the entire dash just yet. At least, not until I come up with a list of things that need fixing inside there (so far I have a squeaky vent fan and painfully slow windshield wiper motor).

The tail lights are wired in a strange and haphazard way, and I would like to dismantle the whole thing and install new (correct color) wires as well as insert bulbs that actually work. I have turn signals and brake lights, but no parking or rear lights. I'm not sure about the license plate light, but have reason to have doubts. Additionally and frustratingly, the "lights on after shutoff" sound does not work, nor does the interior light come on when I open (only) the driver's side door. This is something I am not really sure how to conquer.

I still need door handles and a rear passenger side (tinted) window, a (manual) window mechanism for the driver's door and a cassette tape deck/radio, as well as miscellaneous tools such as a pressure gauge. If anyone has any spare parts lying around that they think might be useful for my endeavor, and are feeling generous enough to donate them, I would greatly appreciate the kindness, as I have the time to make these repairs but can not afford the parts. I plan to keep the board posted on my progress and might begin to include pictures (who knows? maybe even a video) in the future.

Thanks all, for your attention and support.

Best,

DD

[billofdurham]

DD, I have finally waded through your latest post and congratulate you on your perserverance with the brakes.

The other things you mention can be tackled over a period of time (perhaps, in your case, a long period of time ) but you will get there in the end.

The interior light not working on the driver's door is probably a bad switch which is mounted in the front of the door pillar. It may be stuck as they do get a lot of water on them or the wiring may be faulty. The switch is held in place by one screw and you don't need to dismantle anything else to get it out, although with your luck the back axle will fall off - only joking.

When you get on to other things just ask if you need help.

Bill.