240 dies when I shift immediately after starting

Post by **rgk** » 16 Mar 2009, 13:09

I just bought a 1985 240. The car dies when I shift quickly out of park after starting it, but when I let it run for about ten seconds, it runs just fine. Any ideas as to what might be causing this?

Post by **billofdurham** » 17 Mar 2009, 16:26

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

Does this happen when the engine is cold, hot or both?

Bill.

Post by **rgk** » 18 Mar 2009, 19:17

Hi bill, thanks for the warm welcome.

I believe it is more likely to happen when the engine is cold. However, I think it might be somehow related to the brakes.

I was about to change the rotor on the front driver's side, unscrewed the caliper, when all the brake fluid leaked out. I added new fluid but every time I tried pumping the brake the car would die.

After a couple of tries with the brake the car began to die less, so yes, I guess it very well could be a temperature issue, but it does seem like a brake issue too, as it was VERY prone to dying when I first began to experiment with the brakes, much more so than when I was driving with a bad rotor.

I will clear the line of the air bubble(s) to fix my brake system and let you know if it's still dying.

Thanks for the support.

dannym · Post by **dannym** » 19 Mar 2009, 05:25

The brakes should be a seperate issue. In an extreme case the calipers could be locking to the rotor and cause stalling. But more than likely the car just wouldn't move, or you would hear/feel it dragging. Another unlikely problem could be the power steering pump is going bad and hard to turn. But again this more than likely wouldn't cause stalling, it would just shred the belt.

I had cold stalling issues and it turned out to be the coolant temperature sensor. This is not the one under intake #1 with the one wire going to it. It's the sensor farther down under intake #3. It has a connector on it similar to the ones on the injectors.
I took the intake manifold off to get to it. Probably didn't have to but it is in a tough place to get to.

Danny

Post by **rgk** » 21 Mar 2009, 09:31

Danny, how could I check to make sure it's the coolant temperature sensor, as opposed to anything else?

As an aside, I got new rotors new pads for the front wheels. I installed them (first time doing that - kind of a pain, but quite enjoyable), but now it seems I have air in my brake fluid. Also, the new pads are much thicker than the old (of course) and the calipers are preventing the rotors from spinning. Does this normal happen before you pump fresh fluid into the calipers and start the car?

I am going to bleed the fluid today using 1/4" vinyl tubing. It's kind of a pain not having a lift.

I'll keep you posted, thanks!

Post by **billofdurham** » 21 Mar 2009, 12:41

To test that temperature sensor see:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =2&t=19315

the new pads are much thicker than the old (of course) and the calipers are preventing the rotors from spinning

Did you push the pistons all the way back? If you left them slightly out you will have this problem.

Bleeding the brakes is easier with a power bleeder. You need to do them in the right order:- right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Raise the rear wheels slightly higher than the front and bleed all 3 valves on the front wheels at the same time.

Bill.

Post by **rgk** » 22 Mar 2009, 17:12

Bleed all three? I have four bleeder valves up front, two for each wheel. The back wheels have only one valve each.

Brake fluid only comes out of the larger valves. Could this be because I didn't remove all the pressure from the caliper pistons? And is this (along with the air in my fluid) the reason why my brakes don't work?

Thanks.

Post by **billofdurham** » 23 Mar 2009, 13:08

It should be a Girling system on your car and each front caliper will be fitted with three bleed nipples, upper inner, lower inner and outer. Initial instructions were to bleed the three in sequence but Volvo changed this to bleed all three together. You will have one on each of the rear wheels.

Fluid must flow from all nipples to get the system air-free. I don't think this is caused by your not getting all the pressure from the pistons but it is possible that the nipples not working are blocked. They can be removed to check for a blockage and cleaned. If you have any problems whilst cleaning them you should replace them. Always make sure you put the protective rubber cap on when you finish.

If you are bleeding them manually it may pay to invest in a pressure bleeder as it makes the job easier and much faster.

Bill.

Post by **rgk** » 24 Mar 2009, 17:21

I got a pressure bleeder. Yes, it makes the job faster and easier.

One of the calipers has two bleeder screws, and another has three.

Both front calipers' upper bleeder screws are not cooperating, meaning that the fluid only comes from the side bleeder screw (on the driver's side) and side bleeder screws (on the passenger side).

The screws themselves work fine. I used the pressure bleeder to check the hole itself (the pressure bleeder has many different extensions) and discovered that brake fluid does not really like coming out of that top hole. Perhaps this is because the calipers are not (yet? completely?) filled with brake fluid?

I did not get a chance to bleed the brakes completely, as that third bleeder screw on the passenger side was giving me trouble. Tomorrow (or whenever) I will have to bleed the driver's side, jack the car up on the passenger side, take the wheel off, lower the car (whilst still on the jack), bleed the passenger side, jack the car up, put the wheel on, lower the car, and bleed the rear.

If this doesn't work I just might go insane.

On top of everything, the car runs when I start it; it runs when I put it into "drive," but as soon as I apply the foot brake in drive it dies.

Craziness.

Post by **billofdurham** » 25 Mar 2009, 12:41

Craziness.

Is what makes us buy cars in the first place as they are a constant source of aggravation.

It is possible that one of the bleed nipples has been snapped off or someone has fitted a different make of caliper to the side with just two.

As for the engine dying when you press the brake pedal you could have a vacuum leak which is showing up as the brake servo (booster?) is operating. You need to check all the vacuum pipes.

Bill.