Cylinder Head Replacement

Post by **djm850** » 10 Feb 2010, 11:55

Need opinions. I've compressed the timing belt tensioner (very slowly) and it had tons of resistance. I noticed a couple days later that some oil had seaped out around the piston. I cleaned it up and have seen a little more but not as much. It still shows plenty of resistance and is actully bowing the drill bit holding it in place. Is it normal to see a little oil after compressing?

Post by **charlyW** » 10 Feb 2010, 12:01

I'd say it is more than likely for a little bit of oil to come out when you compress the tensioner, if the internal seal has gone you wont have any resistence along with a lot of oil coming out. How much play do you have on the piston if theres none then its fine

Post by **charlyW** » 10 Feb 2010, 12:04

Did you remove the exhaust manifold along with the head or as a seperate unit if so how did you remove the heatshield ?

The valves should be adjusted by the hydraulic tappets so there shouldnt be a need to set the clearances

[forgot to add manifold]

Brewmaster · Post by **Brewmaster** » 10 Feb 2010, 12:28

I run regular octane, but it's a N/A.

Just wanted to put this out there - the N/A is 10.5:1 compression and is rated for premium fuel. I don't know bout yours, but mine detonates/knocks like a summ(orother) without using at the lowest, midgrade.

I'd personally recommend at least midgrade to keep from causing any damage to your new setup from detonation.

Post by **djm850** » 10 Feb 2010, 13:54

It had a lot of resistance. Don't remember any play, but will check it. I if reinstall it with the white top spacer would there be any damage if it failed or will the washer protect it enough that i would just know something is not right, but not have najor damage. I'm leaning torward going back on with it.

I removed the exh. manifold seperate. I removed the shield first. It just bolted on. Kroil was my friend with all the old stuff. Pre-spray 5 minutes before and smooth as butter.

Thanks for info on the fuel grades. I didn't realize the N/A's required premium, but I can say in agreement, mine knocked like a mo-fo too. I'd already decided after seeing the pistons/valves I was gonna switch or at least investigate fuel additives.

Post by **charlyW** » 10 Feb 2010, 14:10

my UK Spec 850 GLT 2.5 20v runs rough if I use 95 ron for too long once a month I put in 98 or it begins to knock

Post by **kcodyjr** » 10 Feb 2010, 14:18

I've said this elsewhere, and obviously do your own checking, but I've been told to only use Techron in the tank, any other additive is likely to screw something up.

Brewmaster · Post by **Brewmaster** » 10 Feb 2010, 14:31

Techron is a good additive. It does a pretty okay job of cleaning out deposits and such, but if you use the proper Octane rating fuel from a Top-Tier source (66, Shell, Chevron, etc.) and not an unbranded pump, you shouldn't really need to use additives on a regular basis.

Find out more on Top-Tier fuels here.

(I would go more into "Octane Ratings and You!", as it is a strong subject for me, but I don't really want to threadjack too much)

Post by **djm850** » 11 Feb 2010, 09:21

Next round of pics. Pulled a late nighter from 7-12 last night. Cam seals & timing tonight.

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Anybody know what this is? It's located on top of the trans. between the PNP switch and the torque arm mount. It looks like some sort of nipple with a cap. The whole thing seemed rather loose and not in good condition.

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Post by **djm850** » 11 Feb 2010, 09:30

Sorry about the extras.

Cylinder Head Replacement

Re: Cylinder Head Replacement