DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock

[LamboSE5]

Hey,
Thanks cn90 - especially for the trouble of the MS-paint nail set
Much appreciated. Sometimes I obsess over information before I attempt something.

I'll give this a shot tomorrow, I got nail set set (lol) yesterday. No fancy hammer though.

Regards

[LamboSE5]

....... --> This thread has to be a joke.

Bought a set of nail sets - didn't work the first time. The shear bolts are hard - they wrecked the nail set; started to round the nail set. Didn't turn it a second (a second is like a 3600th of a degree)

So I bought quality cobalt drill bits and a screw/bolt remover kit. The drill small bits aren't long enough.
So I bought a drill bit extension. The extension is useless for bits under a certain size, so I can't "work my way up". The extension is 6" - it's too long by about an inch and a half. The bigger bits will just walk around the bolt and do nothing.

(By the way the steering wheel is off)

I tried the nail set(s) again, I bought a second set of them. Useless, the round off - the bolts are to hard and slippery.

So I tried a flat head screw driver...which almost made a 2-3mm gouge in the bolt, but didn't turn the bolt at all.

Next I tried drilling up from underneath the shear bolts; that didn't work. It started a hole, but no progress from there.

Then I tried tapping again with a nail set, a flat head, nothing is turning the bolt at all.

I don't even know what to ask anymore... Except is this a joke? No really though, what can I do?

-there's no room to 'score' bolt head with a dremel. I can only think someone would have to be able to weld a nut onto the top of the bolt head and use that. I don't have a welder & that is all I can think of that I haven't tried 3 times or more.

WTF?

IMG_1639.jpg

[socali47]

I know this is an old post ,but I'd like to thank cn90 for providing this information. I just changed my ignition assembly on my 98 s70. I was surprised how easy of a job it is. cn90 Thanx once again for this post!

[cn90]

No problem,

Glad you got it fixed.
Did you replace the electrical portion (easy part) or the tumbler (a bit more tricky but doable)?

[socali47]

I didn't replace the switch, it seems to be in good working order. Removing the shear bolts was easy. I did how ever notice that once I got the bolts lose. Further taping caused them to bind some what in the threads. So, I used a telescoping magnet to continue to unscrew the bolts. Also, keeping constant pressure to support the bottom of the assembly. Allowed the bolt to spin with greater ease. That might seem obvious to some, but thought I would mention it or others that are attempting this fix.

[socali47]

Oh, yeah. Forgot to mention. This was my first attempt at working on my own car! Like I said before, thank you! Walked me right through the fix, great post!

[shoes_untied]

Hi, great write-up. I hope to be using it soon. Once question before I order parts. Did the new ignition cylinder come with replacements for the shear bolts that had been punched out?

Thanks
John

[cn90]

The new cylinder comes with new shear bolts.
However, you may not want to use shear bolts b/c it would be difficult to remove them later.
Rather, use standard bolts (see post above).

A note on difficult removal, the factory shear bolt is difficult to remove because:
1. Round head (allen or torx head).
2. Blue Loctite.

For those who want to try to tap with out using a nail set, I know that Loctite melts with heat.
So just a thought: if you heat the lower parts of the assembly (exactly where the shear bolts go in), it will make the tapping process much easier.
Just cover all around with aluminum foil if you decide to use heat.
Just set the propane torch at 1" blue flame and just be careful about it.
All you need is a bout 15 sec of heat to melt the factory Loctite.

[shoes_untied]

Thanks again for this helpful write-up. Got it done. I wasn't able to tap my bolts out. After being a little too reckless with my first bolt, I ended up waging holy h3ll on it. Three or four broken drill bits later and a trip to harbor freight to get a 90 degree drill (I always feel that by saving money by doing it myself I'm entitled to a new tool anyway) I got it out and carefully and more successfully extracted the second bolt.

As far as the new bolts are concerned, I tightened them just to the point where the heads would break off and, satisfied that the unit was nice and snug, I left them on just in case I need to go back in.

Incidentally, I was able to get my coded ignition in three days through the dealership. Ordered it Monday morning and had it Wednesday afternoon. The guy at the dealership said they have places that can cut them here in the states now.

[MadeInJapan]

Been having some difficulty with the key in my ignition. Last year I changed the electrical portion and it helped it a great deal but yesterday, the key just spun around and it took me 45 minutes for it to "catch" and start the car so I could drive it home. Once on my way I called around and decided to go with the dealer (#250 after taxes) for the cylinder lock/ignition switch...decided this was my best bet as I wanted it as fast as possible and every one else would have it shipped to them first and then out to me. Anyway, I had to rent a car for today and I thought tomorrow until I get my part in and try this repair. Just as a side note, I realized today while fumbling with the ignition switch, that the back piece (electrical section) that comes off from the cylinder lock (keyed) portion can be used to start the car with a slotted screw driver as long as your key is still in the ignition and turned clockwise far enough to unlock the steering wheel. This is a good solution for someone like me waiting on parts and has no other car to drive. I'm taking the rental back to the Enterprise in the morning and plan on driving my S70 until the part comes in. I just have to make sure and lock the car and cover things up as much as possible (including my new ignition key- the screw driver) until I can get this repair completed.