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changing s70 / 850 hub bearing...

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da7
Posts: 110
Joined: 29 Mar 2011, 20:32
Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
Location: Sydney

Post by da7 »

i ended up going straight to the fcp website and filled out the order there myself..

da7
Posts: 110
Joined: 29 Mar 2011, 20:32
Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
Location: Sydney

Post by da7 »

finally got around to start work on it after gathering all the tools.... ie. 36mm impact socket, brake rotors, cv replacement boot etc.


I ended up having to stop half way to go out to buy the 15mm socket and the 7mm hex drive, as I don't have them in all my tool kit!
All my spanners and sockets just skips from 14mm straight to 16mm, and same with the hex drive, skipping from 6mm to 8mm!


I should've cracked and undone the axle nut before I jacked up the car as the thread lock seems pretty tough and I had to hammer the nut for more than 5 minutes to get it off (with an air wrench)



after I got the brake caliper and brackets loose, the whole hub assembly just came apart! Is this normal? Have anybody seen it happen before? So basically the only thing holding my wheel to the car is the axle nut and brake caliper bracket?! Seems scary?

Image

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

:mrgreen:

That's not supposed to happen. Granted, you need a LOT of force to get that axle nut off, and it's cross-threaded at the end.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

da7
Posts: 110
Joined: 29 Mar 2011, 20:32
Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
Location: Sydney

Post by da7 »

just very surprised to see the hub assembly come apart, but I haven't worked on many cars to confirm whether this is normal.. :D

da7
Posts: 110
Joined: 29 Mar 2011, 20:32
Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
Location: Sydney

Post by da7 »

buggered up one of the e-torx bolts, out comes the angle grinder.... grrr...

but one small thing i noted, in the repair manual, it mentioned the e-torx should be done to 20Nm, then 40Nm, then further 60 degrees... but on volvospeed it saids to do it at 65Nm then further 60... am I safer to stick with the Haynes Manual?

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

I just made them as tight as I could get them. I'd go with the VS directions if you've got a torque wrench.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

cn90  
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Post by cn90 »

For those of you who have changed the FRONT wheel bearing: when did your bearing fail?
100K?
125K?
150K?
175K?
200K?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

jblackburn
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Posts: 14042
Joined: 08 Jun 2008, 15:54
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Post by jblackburn »

180
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

da7
Posts: 110
Joined: 29 Mar 2011, 20:32
Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
Location: Sydney

Post by da7 »

After 2-3 hours of fiddling finally got the hub off... I'll put everything back together hopefully tomorrow...

Assuming the odometer hasnt been fiddled with, mine failed at 75,000km.. Which seems a bit early... So it's quite possible the odometer readings has been faked... As I checked my front disc thickness it's down to 23mm which seems to indicate high mileage

da7
Posts: 110
Joined: 29 Mar 2011, 20:32
Year and Model: 1997 S70 N/A 20V
Location: Sydney

Post by da7 »

hi everybody, so today I've finally put everything back together, what I did was change both sides brake rotors and the left bearings, and left cv boot... so really appreciates everybody's help to give me the confident to go ahead with the job, so thank you again...

all in all, I didn't really get stuck with anything, nothing that couldn't be solved with a big hammer... :D But there is one thing that is worrying me, because I went the path of removing the control arm from the subframe, and I'm supposed to tighten the bolts with the wheels lowered, but there wasn't any way I could get in to tighten the bolt once the wheels were lowered, I also tried jacking up the rotor part of the control arm while the car is on jack stands, but the whole car was lifted instead of just the control arm, so in the end, I've tighten up the bolts with the car jacked up, hopefully this won't do too much damage?

so in the end, I took my time to put things back together, cleaned and lube the brakes part, and made sure all the bolts are back on, and at the right torque specs etc. changed the engine oil, but couldn't get the filter off, so will get the tool tomorrow...

took the car for a short run, so nice to be driving the s70 again after more than 1 month parking it in the garage... so hopefully it all goes well from now on, next on my list is the heater core, which is currently being bypassed, so hopefully that's easy.....

so lastly, does anybody think I need to take my car to the garage to loosen the control arm bolts, and do it up properly? Will it be easier to separate the ball joint part instead if I need to change the cv joint in the future? Thanks for all the help again, have a good day! :D

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