2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 02 May 2011, 15:09

so we've got the new pump (bought used from VoluParts, an awesome shop in Atlanta) and after lot of work, Marc got the two lines undone and the horrible black ring off. all is ready to come out BUT the electrical is connected behind a panel, behind another electrical piece in the back of the trunk and we're having a hard time getting it undone. Anybody have a visual of what's back there so we can avoid breaking anything by undoing blindly? Or is there an option to just cut the wir
es and reconnect them some how to the new pump? gr....

funny pics below (ok gotta admit, it's only funny when you're not the one contorted in the trunk with fumes in your face...not fun at all)

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 03 May 2011, 12:25

I've opened another post, to focus on the fuel pump repair itself. but to keep in touch, here's what's happening:
The fuel pump is replaced. car won't start.
We measured the fuel pressure and while it was 150 with the old pump, it's now 225 with the new one. (fuel pressure when key is in position 2.) but the car won't start.
Any ideas?

Post by **precopster** » 04 May 2011, 03:10

You have spark & you have fuel. Given that the injectors are not incredibly clogged you should be able to start eventually.

You may want to pull them and give them a clean but before you do that remove the spark plugs for a little while and let any fuel in the cylinders dry off for a couple of hours, also be sure your plugs are not wet.

Does the starter motor sound as though it is spinning quicker than normal? If so squirt a little oil into the spark plug holes on an angle to try and get some oil toward the edge of the pistons. If this fails go back to the injectors, pull them all out and clean them.

You may be best off starting from jumper cables because you will weaken your battery.

z28chuck400hp · Post by **z28chuck400hp** » 16 May 2011, 17:06

i have a v70xc with 2.4t and had all kinds mof problems like yours...replaced coils tested fuel pressure.....try changing the thermastat sensor on the thermostat housing.. about 20.00.. if its telling the computer the wrong temp it will do all kind of strange stuff.... good luck......chuck

Post by **chrism** » 17 May 2011, 08:29

Now that you know where that valve is, someone ought to connect a fuel pressure gauge to it and see what it reads. Lots of black smoke from the exhaust says "rich" which can be caused by a faulty pressure regulator allowing the pressure to run too high. A faulty fuel pump or clogged filter will show up as low pressure.

cdx873v · Post by **cdx873v** » 23 Feb 2012, 13:34

Did you solve this issue?

draser · Post by **draser** » 25 Feb 2012, 13:14

You got to the point where your car runs fine once you get it started, your problem actually was the hard start. For the hard start you need to check the coolant sensor, I hope your voltmeter can measure ohms as well. Engine cold your coolant sensor reads some 1.6 Kohms. If not the ECU will not enrich the mixture to enable start up. Second is the idle control valve (ICV) that will need some cleaning. The other thing is, before you replaced the fuel pump you should have tested the fuel pressure regulator. Basically if the return port of the regulator is open you'll read low pressure even if your pump is good. One quick test of the fuel pump is to actually squeeze the return line ou of the regulator to see if the pressure shoots up. The fact that you're reading now 220kpa may be just the manufacturing tolerance of the pump. But forget about all this for now, because you should be able to get the engine started.

cdx873v · Post by **cdx873v** » 29 Feb 2012, 12:59

Well it doesn't seam like she's coming back. but for other users that find this post (like i did) hoping to solve the hard start/no start at all problem, i can post what i learned a week ago.

There's a electronic throttle valve on this model that is straight from the depths of hell! if it's a "magnetic marelli" valve, then it will eventually fail. causing the engine to not get any air. and thus no air/fuel mixture=no start!

however. if it is still working, a very common problem is that it gets contaminated right where the vale is. causing it to get stuck in it's closed position.
There's a way to tell if its working; if you turn the ignition on you should hear a kind of electronic buzzing from the valve. its located under the fuel/air intake. just follow the big air pipe from the intercooler and you'll find it.

if there's no sound coming from the intake then you have two options.

Either remove the intake and clean the valve without the hassle of trying to get to it as it is.

Or just remove the intercooler pipe and squese your arm in under the intake with a cloth and some gasoline and try to clean the inside of it.
You need to get behind the valve itself as that is where the most gue is. And while your'e in there stick your fingers in there so you can feel the valve and have someone turn the key. it should move. and it should be easy to move even without the ignition in it's on position.

when it's all cleaned up you just assemble everything as it was before and start it up! if it worked, you just saved yourself a whole bunch of money! go get yourself a beer!

i'll post some videos and pictures about this soon.

draser · Post by **draser** » 29 Feb 2012, 17:27

And that, my friend cdx, is the ICV, see post above.

cdx873v · Post by **cdx873v** » 03 Mar 2012, 15:41

yes, you are absolutely right. although it seems to have many name's, hehe.

here's some info about the failing icv's/etb, etc

http://home.comcast.net/~donwillson/Introduction.html

and here's a picture of it's location (Swedish forum, scroll down to see it.)

http://www.jagrullar.se/forum/viewtopic ... 19&t=29469

A video i just made that show's the valve at start up.

2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair

Re: 2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair