left-handed drill bit on stripped t-stat T40...

[mrwillie]

Not to change the subject, but is there a way to remove the coolant temp sensor w/o removing the upper thermostat housing? I think my thermostat is fine, but I know that the CTS needs replacing. I can do the thermostat later. It seems fine now, and I don't have a day or so to play w/ removing the bolt.

[Ozark Lee]

Not to change the subject, but is there a way to remove the coolant temp sensor w/o removing the upper thermostat housing? I think my thermostat is fine, but I know that the CTS needs replacing. I can do the thermostat later. It seems fine now, and I don't have a day or so to play w/ removing the bolt.

I think you could do it if you remove the intake manifold but once the intake manifold is off you might as well replace all of the PCV stuff if you have not yet serviced it.

...Lee

[xHeart]

Did you try with a Vise-Grip?

Another thought, a Propane Torch ($10 at hardware store, same stuff Plumbers use to solder copper piping) may heklp you.
Just heat the area round the broken stud: don't heat the stud but heat the area around it.
I'd say heat for about 30 sec, this should loosen any rust.

You remember my confession cn90...is this Vise-Grip I need /ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=Vise-Grip&storeId=10051#.UC6K9I5AiMk

[cn90]

Not to change the subject, but is there a way to remove the coolant temp sensor w/o removing the upper thermostat housing? I think my thermostat is fine, but I know that the CTS needs replacing. I can do the thermostat later. It seems fine now, and I don't have a day or so to play w/ removing the bolt.

If you look at this DIY:
http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... ement.html

You will see that if you disconnect the Upper Rad Hose (where it hooks up to the tstat housing), you should now have access to the ECT (I think it is a 19-mm socket, but check to be sure).

You will lose some coolant, just add some coolant later.

[xHeart]

PB Blaster, Vise-Grip, and 15º turn at a time in tight space without damaging the rail and injectors, it is out.
Now I am certain WAHLER would find it a fun place.

Many thanks!

[mrwillie]

Congrats!!!! Now stop by and do mine, please???

[xHeart]

It was only possible because Lee, cn90, and you were there cheering in absentia.
You can do it.

[mrwillie]

It was only possible because Lee, cn90, and you were there cheering in absentia.
You can do it.

I've been out of town all weekend, but I'm glad that you got it fixed. What's next on the list to tackle?

[JimBee]

Sorry I haven't gotten back to this post. If the shank is frozen in hard like mine was, you might not be able to turn it. The two nuts method works well if you can get them on. If you haven't buggered the threads at the top of the shank I would delicately try to get the nuts on. Dress up the threads a bit with a small 3 cornered file if you need to.
How it works is you thread the first nut down far enough to get the second one on. Then thread the second one on until it stops against the first (lower) one. Then hold the upper one with a wrench and get a wrench on the lower one. Now tighten the lower one back up to the upper one until it locks hard against the upper one. Try to keep the nut points aligned but that's not crucial.

When I got the lower one on, I slipped a box wrench of that size over it and let it drop around the lower shank just to have it there. Then put the top nut and used the box wrench to grab the lower one to tighten it back up (unscrewing direction) to the upper one.

When you lock those two nuts together, its as good a having a factory hex head on the shank. Then just use a socket wrench or box wrench and turn the stud out.

[cn90]

I was at Advance Autoparts today and happened to see that they sell the Long Torx set.
About $9.95 for the Long Torx Set.