DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Turbo Coolant Hoses and 2 Radiator Hoses

[cn90]

The turbo INLET hose: no need to remove anything to replace it.

The copper washers: most repair books say replace copper washers, most mechanics I know and I never replace copper washers (unless it is damaged). These include oil pan drain bolts, banjo washers etc. I have re-used copper washers hundreds of times with zero issues.

[Atis]

Anyone here has corroded pipe issue?

Yes I have... I have a parking heater and it has a huge steel pipe monster which is badly corroded. I am planning to take that out and put back an original heater hose until I fix the corrosion.
By the way, do somebody knows the O-ring size of the firewall coupler?

[cn90]

On the issues of the Turbo INLET hose (sitting below Turbo) with oil dripping on it, causing it to swell. I am thinking out loud...

What if we wrap it in Aluminum foil, a few times to completely cover it, this way any oil will not touch the hose?

Mind you though, for me, the factory hose lasted 15y/150K without any Aluminum foil...

[mecheng]

On the issues of the Turbo INLET hose (sitting below Turbo) with oil dripping on it, causing it to swell. I am thinking out loud...

What if we wrap it in Aluminum foil, a few times to completely cover it, this way any oil will not touch the hose?

Mind you though, for me, the factory hose lasted 15y/150K without any Aluminum foil...

I had a similar idea but it would easier if you use the aluminum foil tape used to seal ducts. At the very least I will put some silicon grease on the hose to protect it.

[mecheng]

cn90: when you are taping on the clamp do you just tap anywhere the scew driver will catch the piece of clamp? Did you spray with oil to help it rotate? Usually, when a clamp is tight, it is difficult to rotate it.

[cn90]

The clamp is standard type, so as long as you use a long screwdriver and push onto any part of the clamp, it will rotate.

[mecheng]

I changed the turbo outlet hose on the 850: you don't have to drain the radiator fluid nor reservoir fluid just leave the cap on. To remove the hose, the trick is to cut it I found then wiggle it out with pliers and use some lubricating fluid.

The replacement hose is special, it has a harder compound white core, (I didn't capture it in the pictures). It is different than what was on the car. The old hose is pretty swelled up especially considering the car has only 160,000km on it. I used a screw driver only to tighten the clamps, not the ratchet hoping I would not over tighten the clamp. I will continue to check for leaks. Overall easy job

[cn90]

The fun starts when you do the Inlet hose.

[mecheng]

The fun starts when you do the Inlet hose.

I figured, that's why I didn't want to do it on a work night

To add: on my S70 the outlet hose isn't bulging and the car has a lot more
Miles on it, it uses oetiker clamps which I suspect help as I think the main problem is the
Screw Clamps were tightened too hard at the factory

[mecheng]

Indeed it was fun, 2hours of hell but I did change the Turbo Inlet cooling hose and have a few pointers:

1)When you are turning the hose clamp, turn it clockwise, you should only be hitting the notches and not the screw assembly because it does not turn around counter clockwise, it hits another clamp.
I had to turn it all the way around the other way! What a PITA.

2)Use some pentrating oil so that clamp turns easier, be patient it will turn it you keep hitting it. Lock the screw driver into the slots

3)You can use a long extension with a 7mm socket to loosen the clamp, over a long screwdriver.

4)When removing the banjo bolt, just use a 17mm socket and wratchet from UNDER the car. No hammer needed, the bolt was tight but with a bit of muscle is loosens no problem. Using a wrench from top is very difficult to both access and try turning on a raised car. I wasted a lot of time doing this.

5)Use silicon grease on metal pipe so that rubber hose slids a bit easier. The fit is tight, so the grease helps a bit. And remember, one side is hard to access

6)For peace of mind, use new crush washers, they are only $1 at the dealer, you need two. They are part number 11994.

7)Do not overtighten clamps, this is partly why they swell. Use a screw driver to make them tight and then a small bit of extra torque with a wrench.

I would recommend this if you do a lot of long distance driving as my hose was swollen, but I have to say the hose is very thick and well made.

One thing I realized, is there is another large rubber hose from the same steel coolant line and it appears to be going into the turbo! It is much larger. Does anybody know what this hose is? It is even harder to access.

Thanks CN90, good info, I hope I've made this easier for the next person. I know I could do it much quicker now.