1996 850na What's hardest part of changing exhaust manifold?

[cn90]

Thanks xHeart for the update.
They are in Chicago area (Bensenville IL).
The same ebay seller sells the "famous $40 Heater Core" that people like very much.
So I expect this Exhaust Manifold to be good at $140...

[xHeart]

I wish the cost of car repair and parts were tax deductible? Could I pay for it from the FSA aka FLEX, Lol?
Estonian would take a reasonable offer.
Feeling better. Thank you for rescuing the pocketbook this holiday season.

[xHeart]

This is another very helpful discussion https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45649.

I had enough time last night to pick up. Here are few photos of Estonian variation.

Flex pattern

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Bung angle

MVS_0986.jpg (944.32 KiB) Viewed 2411 times

materiality and tig welding

MVS_0987.jpg (798.7 KiB) Viewed 2411 times

[matthew1]

Great info in this one, guys. I put it in the Repair DB just now.

[xHeart]

The Estonian source contact – Swedish Car Parts/ Alexander or Ed (773) 381-2600, Bensenville, IL.
There were about a dozen Volvos in their parking lot of all kind, age, and size.
Manufacturer http://www.alvo.ee/eng/production.php

surface wrapped with wrinkled/fine hard material

MVS_0979.jpg (837.65 KiB) Viewed 2297 times

The exhaust manifold came with a kit, see cn90's ebay clip in earlier post. It included studs, nuts, and the two gaskets, barely light-weight. But, as recommended by mavericks I am using Volvo gasket PN271735, gasket PN9135122, studs PN975342 x 4, and nuts PN 985921 x 4. Volvo items are absolutely quality, and heavy-weight when compared with the kit items.

[xHeart]

A side-by-side visual of two manifold for area around the flex...any comments?

DNA Motoring


Estonian variation

[xHeart]

Out of curiosity...
What is the mesh thing do covering the flex pipe? once damaged and detached, can it be repaired/replaced?

[JimBee]

Xheart: I've wondered about that woven steel cover, too. Just a guess, but it certainly can't contain exhaust gases that leak out of the flex, so I'm assuming it's a debris and maybe heavy moisture cover for the flex joint to retard rust from the outside.
Also, I"ll be interested to hear how well the EGR fittings align.
Let us know how the project goes!

Thanks to all for digging into this topic. And to cn90 for the association of the Estonian brand with the famous 40 dollar heater core. All very helpful!

[erikv11]

About the EGR fit: ECUs are cheap and plentiful. If you're going to the trouble to replace the exhaust manifold, it sounds like a great opportunity to get rid of EGR if you car is so afflicted. Plug that bung and move on.

Just a thought.

[xHeart]

Xheart: I've wondered about that woven steel cover, too. Just a guess, but it certainly can't contain exhaust gases that leak out of the flex, so I'm assuming it's a debris and maybe heavy moisture cover for the flex joint to retard rust from the outside.
Also, I"ll be interested to hear how well the EGR fittings align.
Let us know how the project goes!

Thanks to all for digging into this topic. And to cn90 for the association of the Estonian brand with the famous 40 dollar heater core. All very helpful!

Thank you for instigating this topic Jim Bee.
The Estonian variation was installed over the weekend. It could be placebos, but it feels different, quicker.

I went with removing the two vacuum line on EGR, and then 2-steps for separating it from the manifold, 1) loosening coupler/reducer few turns at bung to be able to put a wrench for counter-hold, and then, 2) turning 22mm flare-fitting while counter-holding at the 22mm coupler.

I was not able to pull/separate the reducer from the flare-fitting even after the 22mm nut was fully off/unscrewed.

The install needed additional reworking and thinking...
Cleaning and lubricating area around the flare-fitting loosened the reducer to turn with finger pressure, not freely though.

I was now ready to install air valve assembly with reducer attached, hoses off, as one piece to bung.
It takes coordination of human faculty, after few attempts I found the angle/rotation/tilt at which it would align and screw. It would be frustrating if the two vacuum lines where connected to value assembly.

There is also a lateral adjustment of assembly for the two mounting bolts to catch once the reducer is screwed to bung, i.e. threading of reducer to bung determines the alignment of holes of valve mount to manifold.