DIY: Build your own positive battery cable 9456836 for the 850

[cn90]

A brand-new Volvo OEM Red Cable is about $70, FYI:

http://thevpstore.com/parts/index.cfm?s ... eid=216778

[erikv11]

I found this thread while searching tonight, to follow up with a word of caution and maybe save some people a headache: About three years ago I ordered the "brand new OEM red cable" from Tasca (the Volvo dealer), what I found out when it arrived is that it is the same aftermarket cable from FCP or any of the other suppliers. It is not a very high quality part, and I will get a custom cable made/crimped this time.

There is no OEM positive replacement cable because from the factory the cable is part of the wiring harness, it is not a separate cable.

EDIT: this link has further explanation https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=47706

[draser]

And, of course, there is another opinion on this. Actually the solder option is best from an electrical engineering standpoint. That is because for good current flow we need cross sectional area and minimal contact resistance. Which we get both using solder. The only reason they do crimping at OEM's is money, as it costs less to just crimp a lug and be done with it. Matter of fact, for those coming from the VW world, the positive batt cable on my, now long gone, VW Golf was actually embedded in the lead end clamp.

[precopster]

Interesting reading about crimp vs solder. I always thought that solder "encased" both bear metals and prevents corrosion due to dissimilar metal contact which is one of the primary causes of corrosion. Why would we crimp our battery leads when we should solder all oir other wiring including car stereos and optional accessories??

[erikv11]

With all of the vibration on that heavy cable, the solder may fatigue and break down. I think the point is that while the solder is obviously the best conductor, it may not be the best glue in this application.

And either solution will be yards better than an old failing cable, and probably work for a very long time ...

[regent]

If you want to achieve a 110% or better perfeection, you could always add solder to the crimp and then seal with some RTV to prevent air/water ingress, and finally apply the heatshrink tubing

[MrPc]

Crimping also offers the advantage of providing mechanical support to the joint. I don't see a reason why you can't do both: crimp it and then solder.

I've even had success restoring a failed crimped joint by flowing solder into it after it had become high resistance, as detailed in this thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=60223
It's been 16 months since I did that repair, and it's been working fine....maybe I'll put the voltmeter across next time I'm under the hood to see if there's been any degradation of the connection.

Paul

[MrPc]

Arrggh...crossed posts! Great minds think alike.......or something.

[erikv11]

This has been posted several times, filling the old crimp with solder. It seems to work well.

[tryingbe]

I will get a custom cable made/crimped this time.

Here's the material you need to make super heavy duty battery/starter/ground cables.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 37#p340830

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 37#p341613
Here's the result.

I just finished getting the 1/0 cables hooked up.
The voltage at the battery was exactly the same as the alternator output...14.00 !!!
I turned every electric option on high and the voltage was still the same between the
battery and alternator (13.5). It was late so I didn't test drive it but it looks like the voltage
drop is gone.