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DIY: 1997 Volvo 850 - a supplement to Rear End Delta Link...

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Supplement to Delta Link Replacement
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xHeart
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Re: DIY: 1997 Volvo 850 - a supplement to Rear End Delta Lin

Post by xHeart »

blandis wrote:What I received were red box Febi Bilstien. I have had great luck with Febi over the years.
OE/OEM/AFT I cannot tell the material difference.
The task is not that hard after the first time.
An easy replacement now if it deteriorates in 12-24 months.
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clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Going to be doing this soon. Where exactly did you place jackstands under the rear? If you have pics I would love to see your placement since I would have to work under car. Thanks

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Raise it as high as it can go on 4 jack-stand.
Practice safety.
Front is placed under the subframe support plate (aka Bracket).
Rear placement is behind the jacking point supporting the chassis, and relative to the transverse arm's mount point so jack stand clears access to delta link bracket bolts.

Look for straight line access to all screws, nuts, and bolts - avoid shear, break off, and snap.
Let the car sit for few hours after the PB blaster treatment.
I do not use air-tools. But use pipe on 1/2 in breaker bar (cn90 method) for extension and lever.
Patience will win hands down.
Last edited by xHeart on 06 Nov 2014, 07:05, edited 1 time in total.
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skloon
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Post by skloon »

I put the jackstands just in front of the delta link ends- I use 4x4 maple blocks that have a slot in them for the top of the jackstand- neither of my cars were the bolts too tight except the transverse end links the bolts had seized inside the aluminum and had to be sawed out

clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Thanks for the response. So, the rear stand support should be at the black rubber grommet that I see on both sides of the car ? Priority one : SAFETY! I will use a block to distribute weight .If it is needed to lift all four corners, what corners/ sides did you lift first ? I'll use heavy duty stands (6 ton). Sorry for the paranoia. Just hate being under a car using stands.

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Post by xHeart »

I like my entry and exit paths clear, and unrestricted.
Higher clearance helps with being on the side at times.

I used 4 jack-stands, one floor jack (2 trolly is better), and a furniture moving cart.
Since the space underneath was like an auditorium, it was perfect for replacing the full length of exhaust pipe. So I did.

Back on the subject... Yes to location around rubber grommet rear of jacking point, where the chassis widens a bit more.

Raise the fuel filter side 2nd, that is, raise the drivers' side first.
I did not remove front wheels.

Once loose, you want to limit transverse arms movement to up and down, control it with floor jack. A close to even lift on 4 jack-stand will help minimize side-to-side, and front-and-back slide. Gravity and weight helps too.

Do not extend jack-stand to full height, a teeth above half has worked for me.
Let the car sit overnight on 4 jack-stands. Check for stability before start working.

Rehearse each action before executing!

Watch out for that screw holding the brake line.
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Baptiste1106
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Post by Baptiste1106 »

How does my delta link look for a 94' 850 w/ 260k+?
Attachments
Driver Rear
Driver Rear
image.jpg (99.72 KiB) Viewed 1778 times

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Like new! (lol)

I would feel sensation each time taking a ramp, or exiting.
With load in the trunk or passengers in the back seat, it would drag.

Not sure, if I would replace it with that many miles.
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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

I'm just not getting this alignment issue. There are two bolt holes and two threads. Is there really so much play that the bars float in the mount until pinched by the bolt being tightened? Hard to believe.
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RussB
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Post by RussB »

The holes in the arm are oversized to allow the trailing arm mount to be moved around until the alignment is correct

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