How to get this off ( rear strut rubber bushing)

[erikv11]

Careful though, that threaded stud has been known to break off sometimes anyway, without any hammering! ...

I should have been more clear: that's not a bolt, it is a stud that is part of the assembly, that's why you really don't want to break it off. The breaks I've heard about were all solved by replacing the trailing arm. Welding might sound like an option offhand but it really isn't much of one.

[abscate]

Like Lee says, you are fine.

You've dinged that thread a tiny bit on the end, at the part closest to the camera. It will straighten out fine. The cuts in the taper are nothing to worry about.l..less than 10 % of diameter.

J
Burn off the rest of that rubber. Stink stink stink.

Scrape off residual. Clean up any burrs with a file, build up the Tapered part of the stud with pink natural gas spec Teflon tape if the shock doesn't firmly fit the taper ( I doubt you will need this)

Plan A

The threads will chase down fine with a die. Sorry, I'm speaking in tongues again. That's mechanic-speak for " the die tool will straighten the stud threads" die tools look like a big heavy nut with sharp threads.

Take your shock nut to the store so that you get a die that will thread onto a stud that fits your shock nut. The die should start onto the stud with finger pressure only. Lots and lots of lube when you do this.

Plan b
Have a mechanic do the die part if you are nervous about screwing up the threads

Plan c

If the nut spins freely onto the outer cm of thread...here is another idea. The nut only has to press the shock onto the taper, it isn't holding it on. Put some combination of larger nuts and washers to move the nut onto the better part of the thread and tighten the shock from there. Again, medium Loctite here is your friend. Clean and dry threads for Loctite...no oil.

Plan d
Force the shock onto the taper, apply force with a c-clamp and tack weld a nut onto the stud to hold together. Plan on a new shock in 150000 miles.

I'll give you a 98 % chance of getting a nut on that stud nice and tight holding that shock onto the taper just fine. The 2% is just to be humble to the Swedish gods

[daversm]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, so I'm going to work and try to get it workable. I'm going to get rid of the rest of the rubber and clean things up. And use the die for thread, as abscate recommended. Ill post a pic here again once thats done.

Thanks again.

[RussB]

The trailing arm is aluminum...

...Lee

The trailing arms on my '96 850 are steel

[daversm]

ok so here is the final damage pictures. The dark one is from the back of the bolt, I couldn't get a good picture of that.

Also, wow PB -Blaster makes things easier. Really wish I knew the difference between WD40 and PB- Blaster before hand. I need to research before I start these projects. Oh well live and learn.

[RussB]

I would not drive the car with a shock on that, for whatever that's worth

[erikv11]

Yeah, that doesn't look so good but I wouldn't be afraid to try. If it breaks the rear will be noisy, but there is no danger right? I have driven on broken shock mounts, shouldn't be any different.

[tryingbe]

Get the stud repair by having someone add weld to it, then run a tap to fix the thread.

[dosbricks]

Edit: oops! I skipped a page of reading.

Agreed. Get it welded and repaired at a shop. Make sure too disconnect the battery before welding.

[daversm]

I might just take it to the shop and see if they can add weld to it. But I got a thread repair kit and that fixed the thread up good. Now the other strut is having the same problem, going to let that sit in PB-Blaster and try prying it off tomorrow. Hopefully this one comes off easier.