Three Questions:
1. Is there something down low holding the transmission dipstick tube into place (I have the nut off that attaches the tube at the shifter).
2. I want to leave the air conditioning compressor on the car - any experience with this anyone?
3. Are there alignment concerns with removing the shift cable from the transmission?
Thanks, John
1998 V70 XC Engine Removal -Top or Bottom, With Trans or WO
- erikv11
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I have always done #2 like you suggest. It gets a little cumbersome, you have to pull the engine slowly and readjust the compressor as you go, but it beats having to deal with all the evacuate/recharge song and dance.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
Thanks for the input on the AC.
There is an engine mount isolator that attaches the transmission to the subframe. Looks like it could be dettached at the throughbolt through the transmission, at the transmission, or at the subframe. If I can get the nut to break free I was thinking the leaving the mount in place and using it for a guide when dropping the transmission back in. having a difficult time restraining the 18mm jam nut that is under the transmission, and turning the nut on top. Need more leverage!
There is an engine mount isolator that attaches the transmission to the subframe. Looks like it could be dettached at the throughbolt through the transmission, at the transmission, or at the subframe. If I can get the nut to break free I was thinking the leaving the mount in place and using it for a guide when dropping the transmission back in. having a difficult time restraining the 18mm jam nut that is under the transmission, and turning the nut on top. Need more leverage!
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jimmy57
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I had a 98 XC and had the engine in and out a few times. Remove the RH drive axle and the bevel gear. Remove fan shroud. Unbolt P/S pump and tie to core support. Unbolt compressor and tie it forward, no need to discharge it. Remove alternator. Take out the ECM and TCM and then take the box for those out as it is SO likely to get broken and the removal of those will give you some room for P/S pump and alternator bolts.
Leave the motor mount under crank pulley on the subframe and only take out the two bolts on the vertical piece that go into the bracket on engine. Remove starter and undo the torque converter bolts (there is an access on rear of engine that will be mentioned in most manuals but who wants to lay on their back to do that?). It is tight to get engine forward and clear of bell housing but it will come out. Tilting the trans and engine upward a few degrees helps. You will have to have a jack under the trans. Be sure the torque converter is pushed back and clear of the flywheel. Oh, take the bracket for the front (side of the block) engine mount off the engine and the engine mount. It will make getting engine out and then back into bell housing a PIA if it is on the block.
Leave the motor mount under crank pulley on the subframe and only take out the two bolts on the vertical piece that go into the bracket on engine. Remove starter and undo the torque converter bolts (there is an access on rear of engine that will be mentioned in most manuals but who wants to lay on their back to do that?). It is tight to get engine forward and clear of bell housing but it will come out. Tilting the trans and engine upward a few degrees helps. You will have to have a jack under the trans. Be sure the torque converter is pushed back and clear of the flywheel. Oh, take the bracket for the front (side of the block) engine mount off the engine and the engine mount. It will make getting engine out and then back into bell housing a PIA if it is on the block.
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jimmy57
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When the MAF to turbo hose is out the access is not bad.
The angle gear top bolts are a little tough but once the RH axle shaft is out those can be reached with a swivel socket and a longer (12 inch I think) extension.
The angle gear top bolts are a little tough but once the RH axle shaft is out those can be reached with a swivel socket and a longer (12 inch I think) extension.
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