850 Rear Hose Replacement?
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PeteB
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 27 May 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Connecticut, USA
- Has thanked: 57 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
Finished this job. Was not able to free up that flare nut, turned the hose instead
this worked out and seemed to bottom and tighten correctly.
Then unbolted the Y union and turned it, was easier than it sounds.
All the flare nuts look to be brass or an alloy, the hard pipe has a copper color to it.
Both ends of the run on top of the delta link came off easily, the hard part was
finding the Torx bolt, do it by feel it is a fairly small T-25, it was not stuck and the
whole thing came out easily.
There is a black bracket that comes out with the whole thing, it is hex shaped where
the hose end mounts, put the hex area in a bench vice, and was able to crack the
flare nut going into the hose.
The flare nuts and pipes do not rust, what does rust are the (steel?) ends of the hoses.
The hose was rusted into the mounting bracket and I can't imagine getting it out without
removing the whole thing. I had to hammer it out while in the vice.
this worked out and seemed to bottom and tighten correctly.
Then unbolted the Y union and turned it, was easier than it sounds.
All the flare nuts look to be brass or an alloy, the hard pipe has a copper color to it.
Both ends of the run on top of the delta link came off easily, the hard part was
finding the Torx bolt, do it by feel it is a fairly small T-25, it was not stuck and the
whole thing came out easily.
There is a black bracket that comes out with the whole thing, it is hex shaped where
the hose end mounts, put the hex area in a bench vice, and was able to crack the
flare nut going into the hose.
The flare nuts and pipes do not rust, what does rust are the (steel?) ends of the hoses.
The hose was rusted into the mounting bracket and I can't imagine getting it out without
removing the whole thing. I had to hammer it out while in the vice.
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PeteB
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 27 May 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Connecticut, USA
- Has thanked: 57 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
I took some pictures as I did this job, a walk through:
Hard line from the front of the car to the first flex line in front of the driver's
side rear wheel. I was only able to get to the flare nut by feel, just stuck the
camera under there and hoped for the best. How about that little mud flap:
It looks like a hole rusted into the line, but it is not real just something about
the camera angle or a reflection:
Next is the Y connector, the hard line toward the front goes to the driver's side rear
wheel, the one toward the back is the one to disconnect to remove everything
above the suspension arm:
10mm bolt head if you need to remove the Y union:
Here is another view, where the line over the suspension arm and second hose
can be seen more clearly:
I just stuck the camera up high and hoped for the best with this picture of the
second hose over the suspension arm. It is very difficult to see this by eye due
to the angles involved. The T-25 Torx screw is toward the back of the black hex
bracket on the right side of the hose:
Flare nut going to the passenger side rear wheel, remove it to take out
the hose on top of the suspension arm:
Hose, bracket and hard line that was removed from the suspension arm:
Close up of the bracket, note the hole for the T-25 Torx screw:
It is difficult getting this bracket back in. I put my finger at the top of the bracket
above the hole for the Torx screw, then felt with my finger first for the threaded hole,
then for the second hole for the guide pin in the bottom of the bracket. Once I felt the
second hole I slid the bracket forward in a circular way until the guide pin dropped in.
It was not easy to do this by feel:
Hard line from the front of the car to the first flex line in front of the driver's
side rear wheel. I was only able to get to the flare nut by feel, just stuck the
camera under there and hoped for the best. How about that little mud flap:
It looks like a hole rusted into the line, but it is not real just something about
the camera angle or a reflection:
- REAR-HOSES1.jpg (293.27 KiB) Viewed 299 times
wheel, the one toward the back is the one to disconnect to remove everything
above the suspension arm:
10mm bolt head if you need to remove the Y union:
- REAR-HOSES2.jpg (289.76 KiB) Viewed 299 times
can be seen more clearly:
- REAR-HOSES3.jpg (80.83 KiB) Viewed 299 times
second hose over the suspension arm. It is very difficult to see this by eye due
to the angles involved. The T-25 Torx screw is toward the back of the black hex
bracket on the right side of the hose:
- REAR-HOSES4.jpg (245.7 KiB) Viewed 299 times
the hose on top of the suspension arm:
- REAR-HOSES5.jpg (258.02 KiB) Viewed 299 times
- REAR-HOSES6.jpg (232.94 KiB) Viewed 299 times
It is difficult getting this bracket back in. I put my finger at the top of the bracket
above the hole for the Torx screw, then felt with my finger first for the threaded hole,
then for the second hole for the guide pin in the bottom of the bracket. Once I felt the
second hole I slid the bracket forward in a circular way until the guide pin dropped in.
It was not easy to do this by feel:
- REAR-HOSES7.jpg (231.38 KiB) Viewed 299 times
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PeteB
- Posts: 880
- Joined: 27 May 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Connecticut, USA
- Has thanked: 57 times
- Been thanked: 11 times
This job would have been much easier if the first flare nut was not frozen.
I suggest hitting the hard pipe to nut area with PB Blaster, etc. a day before.
All the ones that I sprayed freed up without any problems.
I suggest hitting the hard pipe to nut area with PB Blaster, etc. a day before.
All the ones that I sprayed freed up without any problems.
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