Coil Spring compressors. Topic is solved

[scot850]

Read varying reviews on these from great to awful. I think there are many variations of the same thing and prices vary hugely too. Main criticism was the pins are fiddly to install. I see loads of different brand names on these especially on sites like Alibaba, so guess it is hard to know what you are getting. Up here Canadian Tire and Princess Auto both have in-house sets like these.

I will have a look at these and others on my next trip to a tool store.

Thanks for the input.

Neil.

[erikv11]

I might be a little late to this, but I've been happy with my Harbor Freight spring compressors. They're the Maddox brand ones, https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherso ... 63262.html.
Especially with these Volvo springs being taller, it's very easy to use these compressors on them. I've used them on my dad's E39 with sport suspension (very short springs), on my V70, my cousin's S70, and my other cousin's Genesis coupe to install lowering springs (almost as short as the E39's tiny springs) and it performed very well.
Just take care of it and take the obvious safety precautions and you'll be fine. Use them from the side, not where the spring is pointing right at you so if the compressors break and fire it off like a missile, it won't take your head out.

I use this style too, bought mine from Sears about 10 years ago and have done one maybe six strut jobs with them among various P80 Volvos and our Camry. To be safe I set the strut assembly on a bench, stand beside it so it is pointing parallel to me not at me, and go to work. I've also taken a couple sets to the shop for them to zip the springs off and on, that was before I bought the compressors. I didn't like not being able to assemble them myself, and know they were put together properly.

[precopster]

When the shock falls back down that doesn't make it easy. The first compressor must go right side up at the top of the spring as high as it will allow. The other one goes upside down so you have access to the 1/2 inch drive from beneath. If the shock is falling down very quickly it has little bump resistance and should be replaced.

I try to do most of the assembly with the springs lying sideways. The tricky bit as you say is getting the star nut tightened while maintaining alignment. This is where you need to have them upright and this is also the part where you have them facing you which is less than ideal. Also I find that turning the spring seat clock wise will result in the spring landing on both lower and upper spring rests.

I have them compressed enough so I can tighten the star but by hand until it reaches the end of the thread. and also enough so the spring begins to turn freely; no more.

[scot850]

Thanks guys for the additions.

Mike, I am not clear what you mean in the last part "and also enough so the spring begins to turn freely; no more.". I didn't think the sprig can move at all once the compressors are removed or am I clearly not getting what you are saying.

Thanks,

Neil.

[precopster]

Perhaps this will make it clearer.

The compressors need to be torqued enough so you can feel some slop in the spring in relation to the seats upon removal of components. Never release the star nut unless there is zero force from the spring on it.

If you compress them enough there should be no issue in reattaching the star nut apart from having to pull the shock piston back up.

[bmdubya1198]

Perhaps this will make it clearer.

The compressors need to be torqued enough so you can feel some slop in the spring in relation to the seats upon removal of components. Never release the star nut unless there is zero force from the spring on it.

If you compress them enough there should be no issue in reattaching the star nut apart from having to pull the shock piston back up.

Yes, you need to tighten the compressors enough to be able to move the spring a little. At that point, it's safe to remove the spring seat.

[scot850]

Thanks for the wise info guys!

Looks though like I may have dodged a bullet. I had not had time yet to check to see what the issue was. I thought I had checked the sway-bar end link on both sides when working on the car, but realised I may have recalled incorrectly as I now remember I left the LHF side alone as I planned to check it over when I pull the LH axle to fit a better one and the weeping axle oil seal.

Just to make sure I was trying to fix the correct problem, decided today (as it is cooler) to pull the LHF wheel and sway-bar end link to eliminate the sway-bar and links as the source of the random clunking.

This is when I realised I had not had the end-link off on this side as the top nut was a little reluctant to come off. When it did come off and I pulled the top end away from the strut id became painfully obvious there was a huge gap around the stud end where there should be a rubber boot. Bottom end the stud end just flopped around.

I fortunately had kept a pair of IPD HD end links as spares (poor product but at least functional for this experiment). My other spare Volvo one I had, had been used on the RHS where there was no end-link at all when first viewed! Owner didn't know (or so they claimed).

Bolted it all back together and took it for a run. Suspension is not nice and clunk free for the time being! Only noises were the squeaking from the load cover and side panels in the load area and some from the dash. In fact the car ran really well and has a reasonable get-up-and-go for an NA with the 5-speed auto when flooring the gas pedal! Almost starting to like this car, almost..!

I will still use the helpful info to look into better coil compression clamps, but may just take the crap free units to a local repair shop and get them taken apart and chuck the struts and keep the good parts.

Many thanks guys for all the help, even if it may not be needed now, it will be in the future!

Neil.

[akwon]

Neil,

Did you end up buying any spring compressors?

I bought the Canadian Tire/Princess Auto spring compressors that look like the HF Maddox ones that oragex posted (but didn't endorse exactly). They worked so much better than the crappy ones I initially bought, similar to these:
https://i2.wp.com/topautotools.com/wp-c ... ressor.jpg

The locking pins are a bit fiddly but hold tight against the coil, which is the most important thing. They didn't slip at all. I don't know if it's because there's a solid block instead of a hook, but I'd advise anyone to stay away from compressors with a single hook on one end! It'll have no bite and will slide on you, twisting the rod.

Al

[scot850]

Hi Al,

I bought a cheap longer pair from amazon. I would not recommend them if you read my note on this other thread on the bottom of page #2

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81392&start=10

I will buy a more robust wall mounted unit once we move in a couple of years if/when I need to work on coils again. I looked at the Princess Auto/Canadian Tire offerings and didn't like them as any safer at twice the price. Also look fiddly to use.

Neil.