Long Cranking Time on 99 S70 GLT

Cricket502 · Post by **Cricket502** » 17 Jan 2018, 20:53

I'm already in the process of randomly replacing stuff, so pile it on haha. Though the spark plugs and coils aren't that old... I did all of those about 2 or 3 years ago. I also bought a new fuel pump relay first in hopes that was my problem, since it was relatively cheap, before replacing the fuel pump. So neither of those 2 fuel pump parts fixed my problem.

Today on the highway I got the random multiple cylinder misfire code p0300 and the crankshaft position sensor code p0335 again, so I figured I'd check the crankshaft sensor tonight. It measured 125 ohms across the two pins, which I thought was supposed to be between 200 and 500, but I've seen other forum posts around 125 ohms too for both new and old sensors. The wiring looked to be in pretty good shape, but I noticed the connector probably wasn't plugged in all the way because it was way too easy to unplug. The end of the crankshaft sensor was dented though, as was one side of the sensor cylinder, which seemed strange. I cleaned it off and put it back, making sure no big wires were near that could interfere with the signal. Seemed like the car still took a while to start, but I'll try again in the morning and keep an eye out to see if the same CEL codes come back.

The battery cables visually looked fine too, but I didn't have time to figure out how to test those with the multimeter.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 18 Jan 2018, 01:58

Engine speed (RPM) sensor

D2800351 Inductive sensor with permanent magnet Resistance 125.5 ±17 Ω

Post by **abscate** » 18 Jan 2018, 03:14

Easy to check battery cables. Just measure voltage on each end, with the lights on bright for electrical load.

You want to see no voltage drop from end to end, less than 0.1 V. It's important to have some load to see if they can carry current for this diagnostic. If you've got a really high end voltmeter you can Measure resistanceDirectly, but if you own that tool you are in the wrong sandbox here....

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 18 Jan 2018, 03:59

The battery cables visually looked fine too, but I didn't have time to figure out how to test those with the multimeter.

You place the multimeter across the cable, one probe at the battery terminal, the other probe at the other end of the same cable. Have somebody crank the engine and watch the voltage drop as the engine is cranking. You test connectors the same way.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Jan 2018, 06:51

Have somebody crank the engine and watch the voltage drop as the engine is cranking.

Ricks' method is much better than mine (with lights) as it tests the cables under the actual fault condition (long cranking)

There are some very smart people here on MVS

Cricket502 · Post by **Cricket502** » 07 Feb 2018, 14:09

Been a while, lots of cold weather and travel preventing me from messing with the car. However, I've noticed that if I turn the key to position 2 and wait 8-10 seconds, it starts up perfectly every time. Less than that, and it usually takes a long time to start. Did I get a bad fuel pump or something?

Post by **abscate** » 07 Feb 2018, 14:37

You confirm this by measuring the fuel pressure at the rail and looking for 50 psi when running.

Post by **misha** » 07 Feb 2018, 15:07

Cricket502 wrote: 07 Feb 2018, 14:09 ...I've noticed that if I turn the key to position 2 and wait 8-10 seconds, it starts up perfectly every time. Less than that, and it usually takes a long time to start. Did I get a bad fuel pump or something?

Fuel system is priming just for 2-3 seconds when key is in pos.II....after that the relay cuts off.
That said....when key is in pos.II,fuel pump runs ONLY for 3 seconds...after 3 seconds...you can wait as much as you want and that wouldn't/shouldn't make the difference in fuel pressure.
I guess that there are some electrical gremlins in the system.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 07 Feb 2018, 15:27

after 3 seconds...you can wait as much as you want and that wouldn't/shouldn't make the difference in fuel pressure.

If the fuel filter is restrictive, fuel pressure in the rail will continue to build up after the fuel pump shuts off, the fuel needs to work through the restrictive filter.

A restrictive filter can act like a delay ... any restrictions can act like a delay.

Post by **misha** » 07 Feb 2018, 15:45

RickHaleParker wrote: 07 Feb 2018, 15:27 If the fuel filter is restrictive, fuel pressure in the rail will continue to build up after the fuel pump shuts off, the fuel needs to work through the restrictive filter.

A restrictive filter can act like a delay ... any restrictions can act like a delay.

Cricket502 wrote: 14 Jan 2018, 15:24 ... so I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter.... I still have the long cranking problem...