doing a PCV replacement

Post by **abscate** » 25 May 2018, 20:15

A FLAPS will have the release tool for about $10, that’s the easy way to get that done.

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 26 May 2018, 05:50

chrism wrote: ↑23 May 2018, 17:08
Rattnalle wrote: ↑23 May 2018, 16:03 I used two short 1/4" extensions with "wiggle heads" and a regular 10 mm socket to get to the hard to reach bolt beneath the thermostat. Worked OK.
The next time I do a PCV service I am going to explore the possibility of replacing the IM bolts with torx heads. That would mean slipping a skinnier tool in next to the thermo housing.

Torx with 10mm head would be even more awesome. My main concern would be torque though.. Maybe a machine screw would work?

FWIW, I was able to get everything out just fine with a 1/4" SK wobble joint, a few extensions and a socket. No issues whatsoever.

Post by **oragex** » 26 May 2018, 06:42

Intake manifold bolts torque is really not that high. Genuine manifold gasket is made of some sort of a 'paper', it must not be fully crushed with torque. I think the torque for the paper gasket is 20 ft.lb which is pretty important

http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70 ... fications/

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 26 May 2018, 17:22

So far so good - got the new PCV box installed with minor problems. I had to pull the fuel rail and I'm glad I did because almost all of the O rings were bad. And The small hose that leads from that odd fitting that is held on by a 17MM banjo bolt was rotted. I'm not happy with the fit of the "regular" type of hose clamps, but they work. I can't find the embossed type or the Oetiker (sp?) type in town.

So how do I get the fuel line back between the 1 and 2 runners? I got it out, but have no idea how I did it.

Post by **chrism** » 26 May 2018, 19:22

Did you turn the manifold sort of up on end to get the fuel line to pass through the opening?

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 26 May 2018, 19:34

I think I did. I was trying to wrench and at the same time, deal with other pressing issues while working on the car, so I kind of forgot how I did it.

Post by **abscate** » 27 May 2018, 05:34

You can bend that fuel line gently, keeping the bend radius >15 cm to prevent kinking, to clear or install the intake manifold. It’s highquality thick steel

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 27 May 2018, 07:42

thanks - much appreciated.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 29 May 2018, 08:28

Done! It started right up, with no leaks. Almost scared me. In addition to the PCV job, I repaired bad Fuel injector O rings, Rotted hoses, put a clamp on the breather hose at the top of the cylinder head, Cursed the banjo bolt (french profanity seems to work best to get it back in), put an O ring in the Power steering high pressure line fitting, and fixed a leak at the bottom of the oil stick tube. It got more involved than I planned, but it was worth it to fix the other stuff while the manifold was out.

Much thanks to all for advice and suggestions. Your help is greatly appreciated

Post by **abscate** » 29 May 2018, 19:58

You put the banjo on the fitting, with the two copper washers, then you put a sacrificial orings on the bolt to hold it together. Once you get the banjo started, snip the oring and pull it off.

I spent the same three hours figuring that out.

doing a PCV replacement

Re: doing a PCV replacement