2006 V70R head gasket leak -- weighing options

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 29 May 2019, 05:28

MoVolvos wrote: 29 May 2019, 00:58 -
Would it be catastrophic or too dangerous to just try tightening the head bolts in sequence a quarter of a turn to see if the leak goes away or is minimized a great deal?

You run the risk of over stretching the head bolts and snapping them in two. You don't want to do that on a Volvo White block. Typically when a head bolt snaps on a White block it does so about 2 inches below the top of the deck. Time consuming and a PITA to get out.

Post by **erikv11** » 29 May 2019, 06:54

MoVolvos wrote: 29 May 2019, 00:58 -
Would it be catastrophic or too dangerous to just try tightening the head bolts in sequence a quarter of a turn to see if the leak goes away or is minimized a great deal? Years ago I did that with 3 cars but each were leaking oil rather than coolant. 87 Acura Integra, friend's 88? Mitsubishi Galant & 88 Camry. Budget, time and mileage prohibited doing anything else but that. Did work for all 3 cars.

I don't think I would do it but wouldn't hurt to try, especially if you go in with a torque wrench. If you somehow manage to snap a head bolt, the engine is going to the scrap yard anyway ...

Post by **E Showell** » 29 May 2019, 09:48

The one (unsuccessful) head R&R I tried previously involved a helper snapping off a head bolt in the block. We got it out with much gnashing of teeth and engineering language and a lot of time, but the engine leaked oil from the head thereafter and ultimately went to Valhalla. Thus my inclination to just swap the engine.

Post by **erikv11** » 29 May 2019, 11:28

E Showell wrote: 29 May 2019, 09:48 ... Thus my inclination to just swap the engine.

+10,000

On the flip side I've had successful head R&R's and engine swaps, and I'd still much rather swap the engine than open up the old one. Be sure to refresh the timing path and accessible seals, maybe even the ones inside the oil pan, before you drop it in.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 30 May 2019, 01:52

-
Thanks for the all answers to my question. I guess it's safe to try it only if the engine was not worth doing the head gasket. Could possibly buy sometime while a suitable replacement engine was sourced if it did work.

Post by **abscate** » 30 May 2019, 05:08

I’m on the camp

Get head off, not too much work, and if bolts snap, swap engine
Evaluate head at shop, no more labor, can still bail

Big decision fork..if head isn’t questionable, new head vs engine swap?

New gasket, machine shop work not too bad

Post by **E Showell** » 30 May 2019, 12:09

Machine shop work, gasket, anaerobic sealant, valve stem seals, new head bolts and proper head removal tools start to approach cost of used engine for uncertain result. Not sure I'm with you on that one.

Post by **E Showell** » 30 May 2019, 20:10

Anybody know whether a B5254T3 would be compatible? Thanks.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 30 May 2019, 21:17

E Showell wrote: 30 May 2019, 20:10 Anybody know whether a B5254T3 would be compatible? Thanks.

Swap a B5254T3 in lieu of a B254T4?
Short block yes, same Bore and Stroke.

Long block, the B254T4 has a lower compression ratio 8.5:1 vs 9.0:1 for the B5254T3 to accommodate the Borg-Warner K24 turbocharger used on the B254T4.

A long block, B254T3 It would run but, there a elevated risk of blowing a head or over stressing a rod and you will need to use high octane fuel, no more cheap fuel for you.

Should scream louder than it ever did before.

Post by **E Showell** » 31 May 2019, 07:41

Yeah --- Looking for reliability. I guess the hunt for the B5254T4 continues, although, truth to tell, I don't push the car hard.