Hard to Start After DIY Work

miley · Post by **miley** » 13 Nov 2020, 10:06

OKAY. I held off posting until I changed the oil in the XC90. I also put a fuel system cleaner in the tank with premium gas. (Then I went out of town on a trip and just recently got back).

So, just my luck, no more running rich on bank 1 and 2.... now I am getting the OPPOSITE codes. Running lean on banks 1 and 2. The car starts right up and does not act as if it is going to shut off and moves into low idle just fine. There is a barely noticeable delay in acceleration now and a very slight rough running.
I will post the actual codes and a video when I get a change. Any ideas? This see-saw game is killin me. :""D

chitownV · Post by **chitownV** » 13 Nov 2020, 16:02

That can happen if there wasn't a reset. That's where you can check the long-term fuel trim to see what it's doing. It might take more miles to re-learn.

So, clear codes and see what happens as long as it's running well.

Post by **kallekula** » 14 Nov 2020, 18:49

Did you change those ebay injectors? They are JUNK.

miley · Post by **miley** » 14 Feb 2021, 10:18

Just an update for any interested and if anyone is having this issue in the future and needs reference:
Volvo ran fine but the codes never cleared. Last week my wife had the #2 ignition coil fail while driving on the interstate and had it towed to our shop.
My mechanic put a used coil in to get me home, gave me the failed coil, and instructed me to buy a new one online. It just arrived today so I will install it now. He was under the impression that the lean issue was due to the coil... I don't know about that, but he has always been a great mechanic and honest so we will see!

So I have had enough of chasing fuel system issues with this SUV that I love otherwise.
Going to get ready to sell it and get a 4WD Toyota or Lexus SUV for the wife. I bought new headlight casings for the Volvo. Going to install those then I need to replace or fix the condensation in the lower passenger taillight.... then fix or replace the stupid anti-skid sensor since that light is up on the dash. THEN have a TPMS sensor replaced and it will be GTG.

Think I'll buy a late 80s early 90s Volvo station wagon for fun. They can't be a headache to work on like my poor XC90.

Post by **pgill** » 17 Feb 2021, 09:57

Miley,

I own two 3.2s with the same engine as your XC90 both are over 130,000 miles and I plan to keep both to 300,000 or more.

If you really like your XC90 I can help you to fix it.

If you are selling no matter what then no need to read the rest of this post.

The first thing I would do is

1. replace the thermostat (they fail around 10 years and can cause coil failures and strange running problems)

Let me know if you replace the thermostat and I will post more suggestions

Thanks

Paul

miley · Post by **miley** » 18 Feb 2021, 06:23

Paul
Thanks so much. The decision to sell or not will ultimately be up to the wife, but since I will most likely be selling private I would like the car to be in the best condition I can make it.

I’ll replace the thermostat.... I just looked on eBay and found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermostat-Hou ... 890.l49292

It says thermostat housing. Is this sufficient?

Post by **pgill** » 18 Feb 2021, 11:23

Miley,

The Thermostat is very complicated. (don't buy an eBay part)

I wouldn't trust anything except a Thermostat from Volvo or from Land Rover.

The 3.2 is your XC90 was built at a FORD factory in the UK (Land Rover and Volvo were part of the Premier Automotive Group under FORD)

The only difference between the Land Rover and Volvo part is the Box (and Volvo wants more money for the part)

LR006071 is the Land Rover part number (I installed the Land Rover part on my S80 and LR2)

In the past I've bought from Tampa Land Rover parts

If you order over $99 the shipping is free

https://parts.landrovertampa.net/search ... h=LR006071

Just add something else to the order to get to $99 (the Thermostat is $96)

The Volvo part number is 31355151 (I would only buy a genuine Volvo part or Land Rover part)

This thread shows what needs to be removed.

Note: the XC90 may have more room and you might not need to remove the intake manifold

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html

You will need to drain the coolant so make sure that you have the correct coolant

If you are going to remove the intake manifold let me know and I will make some suggestions of what you should do at the same time.

Good luck

Paul

miley · Post by **miley** » 20 Feb 2021, 15:58

Thanks Paul I am going to look at this now!

miley · Post by **miley** » 28 Feb 2021, 11:01

pgill wrote: ↑18 Feb 2021, 11:23 Miley,

Good luck

Paul

Hey Paul, after a suggestion from another member in my other thread, I have a VCX Nano en route to help me diagnose my Anti Skid Service light. Should I hold-off on the thermostat? Will the VCX device help me more specifically diagnose this running lean issue?
The check engine light is back on after a bit of driving. So, I guess the mechanic was wrong about the ignition coil being the issue.
Thanks!

Post by **pgill** » 28 Feb 2021, 11:39

Miley,

I would still change the Thermostat. (they only last about 10 years and your XC90 is ~12 years old)

Don't forget to take a picture of the broken Thermostat and post it here.

The VCX Nano will help.

The Anti Skid is a Haldex issue.

I will post a you tube video if I can find it.

Good luck

Paul

Hard to Start After DIY Work

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