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1998 V70 GLT FWD timing belt change...starting now!

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Sufbug
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Re: 1998 V70 GLT FWD timing belt change...starting now!

Post by Sufbug »

Removed the accessory belt tensioner.

Gives a much better view.

And marked the cam gears and top of the timing belt
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IMG_20211010_095455.jpg
1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

Sufbug
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Post by Sufbug »

Removed the accessory belt tensioner ...much easier view...

And marked the top of the timing gears and timing belt

Almost ready to cut belt off....
Attachments
IMG_20211010_095455.jpg
IMG_20211010_093813.jpg
1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

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Nevada1906
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Post by Nevada1906 »

Sufbug wrote: 10 Oct 2021, 08:00 Removed the accessory belt tensioner ...much easier view...

And marked the top of the timing gears and timing belt

Almost ready to cut belt off....

Yeah, there you go. And marking the timing belt and gears is the right thing to do. I'm not sure if the valve springs will force the cam out of alignment, though. As I said, I did this job with the lock tool, but you might want to find some way to keep the cams from rotating.
"Maturity is when you realize that the overbearing high school principal or villainous college dean from your favorite 80s movie is actually the hero of the story."

1995 860R (854 + B5254T4 + M56)

Sufbug
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Post by Sufbug »

Nevada1906 wrote: 10 Oct 2021, 08:10
Sufbug wrote: 10 Oct 2021, 08:00 Removed the accessory belt tensioner ...much easier view...

And marked the top of the timing gears and timing belt

Almost ready to cut belt off....

Yeah, there you go. And marking the timing belt and gears is the right thing to do. I'm not sure if the valve springs will force the cam out of alignment, though. As I said, I did this job with the lock tool, but you might want to find some way to keep the cams from rotating.

I will do my best. I have to replace one of the cam seals....so I have to remove some parts, dunno if the cam lock foam thingy will work.

I did mark the belt and count the teeth on the belt (crazy but what the heck) and marked everything up.
16 bumps between cams
43 bumps to my imaginary marking (straight edge balanced on other parts of engine bay, don't ask...lol)

Will transfer marks to the new belt as a reference point, multiple reference points.


Thanks Nevada --- thanks for keeping an eye on me over here 👍🇺🇸😎🤓
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IMG_20211010_105753.jpg
1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

Sufbug
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Post by Sufbug »

What is this bolt? It's a 10 mm

I can't get the belt off the crank pulley unless I remove it

Thanks!

Al
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IMG_20211010_113536.jpg
IMG_20211010_113542.jpg
IMG_20211010_113435.jpg
1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

Sufbug
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Post by Sufbug »

Ok the water pump and the tensioner, and the pulley are off

Had to pull the exhaust cam gear off. Replacing the seal....

CN90---- thanks for the writeup on removing these dang seals! It took me 90 mins , and what a PITA.


Now, one small problem ....the cam gear isn't keyed, and the bolt holes to put the gear back on are eccentric.

I am gonna do the final tighten it when I have the belt on.... So hopefully the belt will position that exhaust gear in place. I have the intake cam gear locked down with a sturdy foam block.

So, now we are gonna put things back together. After I get the exhaust camshaft gasket in place.

Ok here are some lovely pics!

Thoughts or suggestions? Or damn the torpedoes, and full engine power.......👍🇺🇸😎
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1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

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misha
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Post by misha »

That would be a timing belt shield.
In case of serpentine belt failure it should keep the timing belt safe and protect it from wrapping a serpentine belt around crankshaft pulley.

You didn't need to remove ecu(s) and their box...btw.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS

Sufbug
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Post by Sufbug »

Ok cool. I will keep that bolt in there. To protect the timing belt and serpentine belt like you said Misha.


Yeah, taking out the ecu just to get breathing room. Lol

The water pump is back in.
Attachments
Water pump installed
Water pump installed
1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

Sufbug
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Post by Sufbug »

Help, I'm stuck fellas!



Trying to get the belt behind the crank pulley.

Is there some secret?


I did take out the four 10mm bolts. But not the center bolt.

Does the center 36 mm have to come out?

Help, I'm stuck fellas!
Attachments
IMG_20211010_170633.jpg
1998 V70 wagon / 244,013 miles / purchased 9-25-2020
2016 Cadillac CTS4 / might be selling this
1979 trans am 400ci / 4 speed / t-tops / not selling this

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

You do not need to remove the crank pulley. Start the belt over the crack pulley first and work upwards.
volvolugnut
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