2001 V70 2.4T Power steering pressure hose leak

[Blacklab467]

You may want to reconsider dropping the subframe and lifting up the engine, regardless, start with the new hose underneath the vehicle and feed the fitting toward the rack where it threads in. I can relate about when you have it basically in place but the fittings seem like they are oriented wrong….. what you’ll need to do is rotate the line both clockwise and counterclockwise until the orientation is correct. I remember being in this position and thinking “ there’s no way this will fit” until I rotated it and it slipped right into place and could be threaded to the rack. After that, feed the line along the right side subframe and feed the rest of the line up to the reservoir, that’s the easy part. If you got the old one out without having to bend it you can get the new one in, although I would strongly advise you reconsider dropping the subframe and lifting the engine, these extra steps may save you a lot of time and aggravation.

[volvolugnut]

Yes, I do think I worked it down from the front / top. You have removed the plastic belly pan, right? Have you removed the fan assembly to gain some wiggle room? Also the top/passenger side turbo hose?
Either way you go, tape the tube ends to keep out dirt.
volvolugnut

[prwood]

You may want to reconsider dropping the subframe and lifting up the engine, regardless, start with the new hose underneath the vehicle and feed the fitting toward the rack where it threads in.

Thanks, if I don't have any luck tomorrow I'll reconsider the subframe volvolugnut had a few other suggestions I may try.

I can relate about when you have it basically in place but the fittings seem like they are oriented wrong….. what you’ll need to do is rotate the line both clockwise and counterclockwise until the orientation is correct. I remember being in this position and thinking “ there’s no way this will fit” until I rotated it and it slipped right into place and could be threaded to the rack.

I do feel like it will line up if I just get it rotated correctly, just having a hard time visualizing it.

After that, feed the line along the right side subframe and feed the rest of the line up to the reservoir, that’s the easy part.

This line doesn't go up to the reservoir though, it goes to the pump, so it does go along the right side subframe but then takes another turn and goes up in a little gap between the hydraulic engine mount and the starter, to the right side of the intake manifold, and runs left along there to the pump. The return line does go up to the reservoir and looks more straightforward to route

If you got the old one out without having to bend it you can get the new one in, although I would strongly advise you reconsider dropping the subframe and lifting the engine, these extra steps may save you a lot of time and aggravation.

Thankfully, I didn't have to bend it. I did *flex* it a bit when removing the old pipe, as the pipe form seems to have some springiness to it and it popped back into shape when I let go.

[prwood]

Yes, I do think I worked it down from the front / top. You have removed the plastic belly pan, right? Have you removed the fan assembly to gain some wiggle room? Also the top/passenger side turbo hose?
Either way you go, tape the tube ends to keep out dirt.
volvolugnut

My car never had the belly pan when I bought it, so no worries there. I have not removed the passenger side turbo hose (I assume you mean the short rubber one that connects the over-engine pipe to the intercooler), but I can definitely remove that. I have also removed the fan numerous times so I can do that to give me some more room up there. I can't remember at the moment if the top radiator hose has to be removed in order for the fan to lift out. We'll see.

The other thing I couldn't figure out was how to remove the heat shield running along the top of the steering rack. From feeling with my fingers, it seems like there are two screws on top of it, but I can't tell what type they are, or if there would be anything else holding it on. I think I read somewhere that they might be Torx, but I tried a couple of Torx bits that I thought were the right size and they didn't get any bite. Maybe will try again tomorrow.

I'm hoping to get this wrapped up tomorrow, since the rest of the week is rainy and next weekend is very busy. Fingers crossed!

[abscate]

The webstore will have good exploded pictures and SKandix.de will tell you the details on the fastener.

I’m going to guess T27 or 30

[prwood]

I decided the heat shield would have to come off, so after a bit of struggle, I finally got it off. I determined that the Torx heads were filled with crud, so I hit them with brake cleaner and compressed air from above to clean them out, then used a combination of Torx keys and Torx wrench to slowly work them out. It turned out to be a T25. I had to go back and clean the heads off several times due to all the crud. Hopefully this will make things easier. I’ve also disconnected the return hose and am considering removing it as well to give me some better maneuvering space. Considering VIDA’s instructions say to remove the return line before removing the pressure line, and install it after installing the pressure line, this might make the most sense.

Heat shield off

Cheeky bastards

[prwood]

Well, I decided to call it a night when my flashlight battery ran out. It ran out around 4:30pm after being in used since about 10:00am. There was still daylight, but it's dark as the dickens under the car without a light of some sort. Next time I'll remember to use a plugin worklamp.

I have everything removed as per VIDA's instructions for replacing the pressure line. Next steps per VIDA are "work the hose in by the steering gear" and "screw the nipple into the steering gear." I have the hose worked in what I believe is the best possible route, but thus far I have been unsuccessful in threading the nut into the steering gear. The difficulty seems to be in lining up the pipe to go straight into the hole, and at the same time getting the nut to thread on properly. I can just about get the pipe lined up in the proper direction, but I have to hold it in place with one hand to get it to stay there, and I haven't been able to get the nut threaded on with the other hand. The pipe doesn't seem to be grotesquely out of shape - I feel like if I was just able to make the right adjustment to the bends in the pipe, I could get it to line up. I did try a few small adjustments but they didn't yield any improvements.

I do feel like I'm 90% of the way to getting this right, but the last 10% is pretty frustrating. If I could get my car jacked up higher it would certainly make my working conditions more comfortable, and possibly give me more room. As it is, most of the work is being done about 6 inches in front of my face and without being able to fully extend my arms. My current jack has a maximum lift of 13 7/8", so maybe a jack with a higher reach would help.

I'll likely give this one more try at some point when the weather and time allows, but I'm also looking at other options, like selling it for scrap, or having it towed to a local independent Volvo mechanic, though I'm not sure how kindly they'd take to working on an amateur mechanic's half-done job (has anyone tried to do something similar?).

New pressure hose and existing return hose, waiting for the day when I feel like giving it another go...

[br0dy519]

Love to read your threads wood. Even took one of your quotes as my signature as I have almost the exact same struggles as you I just did this job myself earlier in the year and will never do it again, because I believe this job aged me greatly with all of the physical and mental exhaustion. I highly recommend a boiling hot Epsom salt bath with 4 drops of lavender oil to help your body and mind recover. With that said, three major things were keys to my success:

1) Ensuring I got the right part number. I had to cross reference my VIN and realized my MY04 S60 had literally 3 different rack configurations that year. Using VIDA really helped, but I found on my old hose the actual volvo P/N was stamped on one of the metal crimp connections. Verify your part number to be 100% certain.

2) A SOLID 1/4" drive, flex-head, long handled ratchet with a Metric flare nut crowfoot socket set.

3) Removing the rear lower engine bolt and jacking up the transmission/engine slightly for room.

I did not lower the subframe. This meant that I had to bend the heatshield a bit and snake the solid part of the line into some tight spots and really "help it". I definitely bent it harder than I wanted to but the OEM line was well built and could withstand the pull. At one point I had all of my engine mounts off/loosened, and none of them lined up when trying to reinstall. I literally pried the engine engine up into place using a 2x4 against the front rad support and pushed it down in a fit of rage and it just magically fell into place.

You can do this! But I agree you need to take some time away from the job and come back with a fresh mindset. My total time on this job was probably at least 16 hours- downright embarrassing.

edit: Also forgot to mention I removed the rad fan and dipstick tube, and on your car I would remove the intercooler hoses and OTE pipe as well in order to gain enough wiggle room up front. Don't forget to remove your dipstick anytime you're working up front, I broke mine earlier this year the ONE time I forgot to do it.

[volvolugnut]

After you get the car as high as you can with your jack, place jack stands under the car in secure locations. Then place stacked wood blocks under your jack and raise it some more. Then raise jack stands, with more wood blocks if needed.
But you probable knew all this.
volvolugnut

[prwood]

Love to read your threads wood. Even took one of your quotes as my signature as I have almost the exact same struggles as you I just did this job myself earlier in the year and will never do it again, because I believe this job aged me greatly with all of the physical and mental exhaustion. I highly recommend a boiling hot Epsom salt bath with 4 drops of lavender oil to help your body and mind recover. With that said, three major things were keys to my success:

1) Ensuring I got the right part number. I had to cross reference my VIN and realized my MY04 S60 had literally 3 different rack configurations that year. Using VIDA really helped, but I found on my old hose the actual volvo P/N was stamped on one of the metal crimp connections. Verify your part number to be 100% certain.

2) A SOLID 1/4" drive, flex-head, long handled ratchet with a Metric flare nut crowfoot socket set.

3) Removing the rear lower engine bolt and jacking up the transmission/engine slightly for room.

I did not lower the subframe. This meant that I had to bend the heatshield a bit and snake the solid part of the line into some tight spots and really "help it". I definitely bent it harder than I wanted to but the OEM line was well built and could withstand the pull. At one point I had all of my engine mounts off/loosened, and none of them lined up when trying to reinstall. I literally pried the engine engine up into place using a 2x4 against the front rad support and pushed it down in a fit of rage and it just magically fell into place.

You can do this! But I agree you need to take some time away from the job and come back with a fresh mindset. My total time on this job was probably at least 16 hours- downright embarrassing.

edit: Also forgot to mention I removed the rad fan and dipstick tube, and on your car I would remove the intercooler hoses and OTE pipe as well in order to gain enough wiggle room up front. Don't forget to remove your dipstick anytime you're working up front, I broke mine earlier this year the ONE time I forgot to do it.

Thank you for the feedback and encouragement! I had forgotten about that quote... don't remember what it's from, but I'm still basically in the same situation, although I do now have a tent I can put over the car if I need to work out of the sun.

I am fairly certain the part is correct, I checked a number of sources based on chassis #, etc.

I have a 1/4" drive ratchet, but it's not long handled or flex headed. I do have crowfoot sockets. As it turns out, the nut on the steering rack takes a 16mm head, which isn't part of my crowfoot set, but I do have a 5/8" head, which is a good fit. Physically getting the wrench on the nut and working it around isn't a problem, obviously I was able to do it to remove the pipe. The issue is with getting the thread started. With other jobs I'd get the thread started by hand - usually I turn CCW and push a bit until the thread locks in, then turn CW a few turns by hand before switching to wrench (e.g. I would do this with the fitting on the power steering pump which is easily accessible). But I haven't been able to do that with this one. Possibly because it's very oily down there (I did try to clean it up) or just because of the space it's hard to get a grip. With the crowfoot you can't really push and turn at the same time. I'm sure it would be easier if I got the pipe aligned correctly, but even if I did, the pipe won't stay put without either a hand or the pipe nut holding it in place.

When you talk about removing the rear lower engine bolt... do you mean just the bolt for the rear engine mount, and not the entire mount? Or did you meant remove the whole mount? I replaced all of my engine mounts a few years ago, and one of the things in the VIDA instructions for the lower engine mounts was to replace the bolts with new ones after removing. Not sure how necessary that is.

Luckily I was able to remove the heat shield from over the steering rack so I don't have that to contend with. And I've removed the whole return line. I also removed the cooling fan and intercooler and turbo pipes, so I have the maximum amount of room up top. That being said, it does seem like the pipe has to come up past the engine in a very specific spot in order to be positioned correctly - there's a couple of gaps amidst the various other pipes, harnesses, and mountings that run along the top of the subframe, and only one of them lets it come up to the right side of the intake.

At this point I might not have another good chance to work on it until early November, between weather, work, and other obligations, so I guess I'll have some time to recuperate. It's possible that I could take a day off work if a good weather day comes up during the work week, but currently it looks like it may be into early November before I have another good chance to work on it.

Luckily, we have a couple of other vehicles to drive in the meantime, although one of them is my father-in-law's Volvo S40 which sounds like it might have a dodgy belt or pulley somewhere on the accessory drive...