Volvo 850 Ignition Switch Replacement

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 12 Aug 2012, 16:04

To avoid the issue of loose connector pins, sparks,
arcs and trying to figure out which pin goes back where,
leave the cap on the ignition switch connector in place.
It's the only thing that holds all the pins in place.

The pins all fit very tightly, so it's not the easiest connector
to seperate, but it will unplug. You may find it easier if you
remove the contact block from the column first. Your call.

The entire plastic connector body unplugs from the switch.
This is what it should look like unplugged:

: 870 ign switch connector.jpg (37.11 KiB) Viewed 3957 times

It should all disconnect from the contact block at the back of
ignition switch assembly as one part with all the pins retained.

If your connector looks like this, then the cap has been removed:

: 870 ign switch connector with NO CAP.jpg (23.59 KiB) Viewed 3957 times

If you unplug it with no cap, the wires and their pins will all fall out
and sadness follows. Especially if you didn't disconnect the battery...

Post by **rspi** » 28 Mar 2013, 20:00

kanguru007 · Post by **kanguru007** » 24 Dec 2013, 22:17

The upper bolts on my 1994 2L NA 20V wagon are T10 instead of T15 or T25!!!

The ignition switch that is not returning to the correct (lights ON) position can be repaired to as-good-as-new condition and will probably last for another 20 years: open it and use pressure-pliers to repeatedly squeeze the spring-loaded metal pad to make it about 1mm wider (sorry I didn't take a picture)

revdc · Post by **revdc** » 09 Jun 2014, 13:10

Helpful post but like Croz I found the upper cover screws were t15 and not t25 after fiddling for 15min - after getting coves off pretty easy.

Thanks

revdc

superfing · Post by **superfing** » 02 Jul 2014, 13:44

Thanks for the tips. Btw the upper bolts were torx 15 on mine as well. Have both!

bugs11 · Post by **bugs11** » 03 Apr 2016, 17:46

Completed this procedure about 10 minutes ago. Everything went according to script except on my 96 850 Turbo the steering wheel top cover screws were Phillips head rather than Torx head, the lower cover was held on with T25. I only spent 4-5 minutes trying T15, T10, and T25 before I got a light and looked in the opening. The date stamp on the plastic covers indicate they were made in Feb. 1996.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Apr 2016, 06:21

You might be on your third ignition switch, Bugs.

I bet someone lost the Torx and used Philiips as replacements.

bugs11 · Post by **bugs11** » 16 Apr 2016, 20:27

Took a picture of the screws holding my cars steering column covers together at the time I did the install (just posting it now). The Phillips head screws look original to me, but what do I know.

.

emac1507 · Post by **emac1507** » 30 Apr 2016, 21:42

Croz wrote:I just did this swap on my 95 850, and the longest time i spent was trying to get the darn upper cover off. Someone somewhere along the adventure my car has taken had changed the upper bolts to t15 instead of t25. Once i figured that out, it was a breeze thanks to the pics and instructions here.

I just did my 95 850 Turbo and the and the upper cover bolts were also t15. Maybe it just this model year. But the pictures and instructions sure made it easy and it works great. Thanks.