I doubt there would be a noticeable change from only removing the driveshaft. You still have all the other rotating mass in the rear end and bevel gear. Try comparing a true FWD to and AWD. The difference may be easier to see.
Spenser
98 v70 xc drive shaft removal
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Project: 1998 Volvo XC70 AWD Drive Shaft Removal
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Bluevanacd2005
- Posts: 245
- Joined: 18 October 2013
- Year and Model: 1983 760
- Location: USA
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goVolvo
- Posts: 89
- Joined: 30 November 2014
- Year and Model: V70XC 2000, S70 1998
- Location: Seattle eastside
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
My success story after a S.O.S.
"I need help on better tool to remove the Allen cap screws on front joint of the propell shaft. Already made two bolts half way slip. Stuck now. Rear bolts are taken off OK."
Did it! Da..n, success!
Details will be added tonight. Thanks all!
OK, story time.
It takes lot of time to jack up car, put on stand, twist myself on the floor like a worm under the car to get used to the position.
Posts here are very useful. Unbolt rear end first. I was using Allen key L shaped. Tried to the limit, the Allen key starts to bend when the bolt finally gives out. Then middle bearing and bracket. Not hard with iron pipe on wrench handle to leverage.
After undo the bottom bolts, jack up rear wheels with two floor jacks. Move to neutral and release parking brake. Turn the wheel so the shaft also turns to let you reach the other bolts.
Then I feel quite confident and start the front. It is tighter, and harder, as the shaft is right on top of down pipe. Only a small window on the left to access it. I tried Allen key and it slip out the cap bolt. Scary! Stop and go find better tool.
A 6mm hex in 1/4" socket looks the right tool, and my lasr resort. And it is right indeed. But it is really hard to find one. Sears and harborfreight only has 3/8" with 6mm hex head, no hex head on 1/4" socket. And no 6mm drive bit either, only 1/4" drive bit is available. Desperated, I went to Homedepot to buy smaller 8" iron pipe as the space under the car is too limited to use long pipe. I looked for 6mm hex again. Still there is no such socket. I had to search the combo tools. One of the Husky 65pcs box says 6mm drive bit, the only choice for me. Hope it works.
So back home and try again. I put the 6mm hex bit in a 1/4" SAE 1/4"socket. Looks pretty good. The bit head seems long enough and sit in the cap screw pretty tight. I undid a different screw successfuly with it, and the help of iron pipe. Still there is surprise. One of the bolts I didn't touch is somehow screwed and I cannot put the 6mm bit in. Skip it after several trial. Don't do it before screw it up.
Again, shift to P while unbolting, and shift to N to turn the shaft to next bolt. There is only one position to put in the wrench, luckily because the shaft is leaning on the right side and gives space on the left.
The half slipped bots I touched and half slipped turns out to be fine as the bit can sit all the way in it and bolts are undone. For the last one that bit cannot it in, I use a slightly smaller 6mm bit (not good quality as it is smaller than spec) that can be put in. Then I hammer it, try to make the openning unblocked. Then I put the good 6mm bit there, and hammer again and again, use an small extension bar as spacer and keep on hammering, until the bit goes in enough, if not completely. I finally cannot hammer more. Only choice is to undo it. I got luck finally, the bolt gives in!
Remove the bolts on middle bearing bracket and finally the propell shaft is moved out. Try wiggle the two joints at the front and rear end. I feel the difference. It is a little sticky at certain angle when wiggling the front joint. So it i not smooth all the way. Also the bolts comes out from front joint are covered by black grease, while the bolts from rear joint are still clean and I can see the read thread lock paint. So this makes big difference when the shaft is spinning in driving condition. The stickness at certain angle will generate vibration for sure, on this 30lbs shaft. The shaft middle bearing is fixed on the bracket with exhaust pipe hangers. Vibration is resonated easily and created shakes of the whole body.
Now my car runs silk smooth. What a relief!
Think about fixing the joint and it should be all good again. VIDA has the intruction for the joint. If I can get the joint parts from dealer probably it is very reasonnable to DIY instead of spending $450 to get a rebuild one from Colorado Drivingaxle. Very attempting to do it and make AWD live again on it.
I'll add these to the driving shaft thread as well. Thanks for reading.
goVolvo
"I need help on better tool to remove the Allen cap screws on front joint of the propell shaft. Already made two bolts half way slip. Stuck now. Rear bolts are taken off OK."
Did it! Da..n, success!
Details will be added tonight. Thanks all!
OK, story time.
It takes lot of time to jack up car, put on stand, twist myself on the floor like a worm under the car to get used to the position.
Posts here are very useful. Unbolt rear end first. I was using Allen key L shaped. Tried to the limit, the Allen key starts to bend when the bolt finally gives out. Then middle bearing and bracket. Not hard with iron pipe on wrench handle to leverage.
After undo the bottom bolts, jack up rear wheels with two floor jacks. Move to neutral and release parking brake. Turn the wheel so the shaft also turns to let you reach the other bolts.
Then I feel quite confident and start the front. It is tighter, and harder, as the shaft is right on top of down pipe. Only a small window on the left to access it. I tried Allen key and it slip out the cap bolt. Scary! Stop and go find better tool.
A 6mm hex in 1/4" socket looks the right tool, and my lasr resort. And it is right indeed. But it is really hard to find one. Sears and harborfreight only has 3/8" with 6mm hex head, no hex head on 1/4" socket. And no 6mm drive bit either, only 1/4" drive bit is available. Desperated, I went to Homedepot to buy smaller 8" iron pipe as the space under the car is too limited to use long pipe. I looked for 6mm hex again. Still there is no such socket. I had to search the combo tools. One of the Husky 65pcs box says 6mm drive bit, the only choice for me. Hope it works.
So back home and try again. I put the 6mm hex bit in a 1/4" SAE 1/4"socket. Looks pretty good. The bit head seems long enough and sit in the cap screw pretty tight. I undid a different screw successfuly with it, and the help of iron pipe. Still there is surprise. One of the bolts I didn't touch is somehow screwed and I cannot put the 6mm bit in. Skip it after several trial. Don't do it before screw it up.
Again, shift to P while unbolting, and shift to N to turn the shaft to next bolt. There is only one position to put in the wrench, luckily because the shaft is leaning on the right side and gives space on the left.
The half slipped bots I touched and half slipped turns out to be fine as the bit can sit all the way in it and bolts are undone. For the last one that bit cannot it in, I use a slightly smaller 6mm bit (not good quality as it is smaller than spec) that can be put in. Then I hammer it, try to make the openning unblocked. Then I put the good 6mm bit there, and hammer again and again, use an small extension bar as spacer and keep on hammering, until the bit goes in enough, if not completely. I finally cannot hammer more. Only choice is to undo it. I got luck finally, the bolt gives in!
Remove the bolts on middle bearing bracket and finally the propell shaft is moved out. Try wiggle the two joints at the front and rear end. I feel the difference. It is a little sticky at certain angle when wiggling the front joint. So it i not smooth all the way. Also the bolts comes out from front joint are covered by black grease, while the bolts from rear joint are still clean and I can see the read thread lock paint. So this makes big difference when the shaft is spinning in driving condition. The stickness at certain angle will generate vibration for sure, on this 30lbs shaft. The shaft middle bearing is fixed on the bracket with exhaust pipe hangers. Vibration is resonated easily and created shakes of the whole body.
Now my car runs silk smooth. What a relief!
Think about fixing the joint and it should be all good again. VIDA has the intruction for the joint. If I can get the joint parts from dealer probably it is very reasonnable to DIY instead of spending $450 to get a rebuild one from Colorado Drivingaxle. Very attempting to do it and make AWD live again on it.
I'll add these to the driving shaft thread as well. Thanks for reading.
goVolvo
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