DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC

[FlyingVolvo]

Very similar from what I can tell/remember.

[Turbotato]

Thanks again for the reply via PM. I crawled underneath the Volvo and dropped the splash cover...it does look like the procedure for removing the pan would be the same on the 2001 S60...Everything underneath looks essentially the same as the photos in your post.

I was getting an intermittent "no oil pressure light"...came on the first time Monday night on my way home from work. I have a really long commute (90 miles each way)...initally was flickering and then it stayed on. I pulled off at a rest stop as soon as I could...engine was quite and was not running hot. Oil level was fine and it's been about 4K since I changed the oil so it wasn't super dirty. I started it back up and kept driving...went about 10 miles and the light came back on. Didn't have a good place to stop so I kept going to the next rest stop...probably 30 miles. Again the car still sounded quiet and the oil level was fine. So I drove the next 20 miles with the light on most of the time...it would flicker off sometimes but usually come back on shortly. Even after driving about 70 miles it still didn't sound loud and wasn't running hot. If it truly had no pressure, figured it would have thrown a rod after that long of a run.

Monday night I did some web surfing and too prevailing themes kept coming up...gunk build-up in the engine and the pan seals. I ordered a seal kit and an oil pressure switch...Next morning I threw a quart of ATF into it and let it run for about a 1/2 hour...oil light was still out. Drove it for about 10 minutes and the light came back on. Still sounded quiet...no significant bubbles on the dipstick. Pulled off the oil cap and put my hand over the valve cover hole while it was running...you could feel some suction so I guess the PCV system is still clear. I figured I'm going to have to do the seals.

The oil pressure switch came in the mail and I popped that it today. What a PITA that was! I have big forearms and small hands...very hard to get the new switch back in. Ran it for a 1/2 hour...light didn't come back on. I held the idle at about 2200 RPM for a few minutes at a time...that's about where it runs on the highway at 80. Light never came back on. I drained the oil, changed the oil and filter and let it run for about an hour...the light never came back on. I took it for a couple rides while it was running and so far so good. Sounds quiet...but it never really did sound loud.

The only thing I did notice was the the old oil filter element looked like it had collapsed in on itself a bit...Didn't look like enough to let the oil bypass the element, but it was slightly crushed in. The element was not super-gunky looking, but the oil was pretty dirty at this point since I had added the ATF. I had one more of the same brand filters on the shelf so I did use it...we'll see what happens. I did order a couple "Mann" replacement filters for the next change.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed...my Volvo is older (2001), but it's in really good shape and only has 97K on it. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the oil pan...It's been bitter cold in our region lately and I'm working on my back in the driveway...would prefer to tackle that job in the summer!

Again Thanks for your great post!

[FlyingVolvo]

Glad I could help! Definitely try and get the Mann or Mahle filters for the oil. Very good quality and they're the same as Volvo's genuine "blue box". A few of the online retailers have them very cheap (IPD, FCP, etc), especially in bulk.

[DGB47]

I have a question on this resealing job. My car is also a 2000 XC and we dropped the pan last summer because of a leak which was getting all over the cat converter. We followed all the instructions, however the leak persisted. I figured it may have been coming from somewhere else other then the pan. Last week we tried it again, we left the sealant to cure a couple of hours and then drove it around a little, but again it blew sealant and oil out the joints. I was thinking that I didn't give the sealant enough time to cure, (using the same volvo sealant), so I was going to try a third time, then I reread this post, which says within a few minutes you can refill with oil and are good to go.
Does anyone know if there is a cure time for the volvo sealant or am I looking at some other problem here?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

[FlyingVolvo]

How big is the leak? I know these might sound like dumb questions, but are you positive the leak is from the pan seal? I would take some degreaser and clean every nook and cranny on and around the pan (especially above it) and inspect for oil again. Oil leaking from the top of the engine or turbo can make it look like the pan is leaking. It does sorta sound like another issue. That sealant works very quickly and doesn't really need any curing time. Did you make sure the mating surfaces on both sides (pan and upper sump) were completely cleaned and smooth? I took some fine grain sandpaper along it all to make sure it was perfect and free of any old sealant or anything.

[DGB47]

The leak hasn't been real big, but pretty sure this time the leak is from the pan since it seems to have blown some of the sealant out of the joint. Going to try again in a couple of days and will make sure there is no residue on the surfaces and see what happens. thanks for your quick reply.

[FlyingVolvo]

Do you know about the condition of your PCV system. If/when it was done last? Any white smoke or pressure coming from the dipstick with the engine warm and running?

[DGB47]

The last time I checked it was a few months ago, there doesn't seem to be any pressure or white smoke coming from there. I used a glove and put it over the oil fill and it sucked in and I don't have white smoke coming from the dip stick.
The PCV system has never been changed though and there is 182,000 miles on the car.

[FlyingVolvo]

Normally with that mileage, you're well overdue for the PCV system, but if it's sucking in air that's fine as far as I understand it. I think you can rule out an over-pressure causing your leak. Hopefully some others can chime in and help out. I've been out of the Volvo repair world for a couple years. I did so much stuff to it during college, that it's actually been trouble-free for quite a while. Although now I've got a CV boot leaking... and the suspension needs some help... and the timing belt is due. *sigh*

[DGB47]

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'll check the pcv again to make sure it's not plugged, and then give it another shot at resealing.