Official AC Thread
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Volvo Air Conditioning Problems & Fixes
AC Repair update
Finally got around to swapping in a used fan motor resistor. Fan powers up now and stays on without cutting out. Doesn't blow quite as hard as it should so may go ahead and replace fan assembly. You guys put me on the right road to fix this darn thing so thanks!!
Without regurgitating the whole sordid story of my AC troubles, I just wanted to report that my 93 850 GLT now has a fully functioning AC system. After trying to chase down numerous possible problems indicated by codes I pulled, turned out both my fan motor and fan motor resistor were bad. I replaced them both today and it nows blows your hair backwards.
My advice to others who may be trying to overcome the infamous blinking lights on the ECC control panel is don't put much stock in what your codes say. I pulled no fewer than five AC related codes off my computer and not one of them even hinted at a bad fan motor or resistor. All's well that ends well though.
My advice to others who may be trying to overcome the infamous blinking lights on the ECC control panel is don't put much stock in what your codes say. I pulled no fewer than five AC related codes off my computer and not one of them even hinted at a bad fan motor or resistor. All's well that ends well though.
I've got a 96 850 wagon with a history of slow, chronic AC leak since way back when it was under warranty. The service center at the dealership never found the leak. In recent years, I've been servicing the car at more trustworthy (and seemingly more competent) shops.
Nobody has ever found the leak. So I'd just bring it in for a recharge when using the AC for the 1st time a season would remind me I needed a recharge.
Initially it was semi-annually, and more recently annual recharges were necessary. In each case, I'd get through the hot season. Since I live in the south, its a long summer.
This spring's recharge (in early May) didn't last long at all. So it seems like the leak has worsened.
The service guys did a leak test for visuals under the hood and didn't find one, but suggested it might be a component (AC evaporator) behind the dash that he characterized as "very common". He's talking $1300, mostly in labor to remove the dash and repair the leak.
Anybody hear of a similar problem?
I hate to put that much money into this car. On the otherhand, I have no intention of ever getting rid of it since my kid's will start driving in another year or so...
Nobody has ever found the leak. So I'd just bring it in for a recharge when using the AC for the 1st time a season would remind me I needed a recharge.
Initially it was semi-annually, and more recently annual recharges were necessary. In each case, I'd get through the hot season. Since I live in the south, its a long summer.
This spring's recharge (in early May) didn't last long at all. So it seems like the leak has worsened.
The service guys did a leak test for visuals under the hood and didn't find one, but suggested it might be a component (AC evaporator) behind the dash that he characterized as "very common". He's talking $1300, mostly in labor to remove the dash and repair the leak.
Anybody hear of a similar problem?
I hate to put that much money into this car. On the otherhand, I have no intention of ever getting rid of it since my kid's will start driving in another year or so...
Unfortunetely, the evaporator rotting is a common problem with the 850's. $1300 seems to be the average cost as the repair is so labor intensive. Not saying it would go anywhere, but if you do have all the paperwork of the problem going back to the dealer while under warranty, I would start there.
1993 Volvo 850glt
225,000 miles and counting
225,000 miles and counting
The low port for recharging an 850 is located behind the left headlamp.850girl wrote:Thanks man! I saw the Nm thing and just wasn't sure that was what I was looking for... better to ask and be right than wrong and... well you know...
You rule!
The NM is the amount torque you tighten the cap. Do not overtighten.
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MadeInJapan
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Unfortunately the evap. is common and expensive and yes, at the $1300 tune...still, the leak should be detectable...although looking up into the evap. area from under the car takes some skill and a small black light on the end of a long stick. My suggestion is to suggest this to the leak detector, who ever it is....could be you, if you want to do it yourself...relatelvy cheap. However, if your charge will last even a couple of weeks, I would try to squeek through this summer and even try to do it again next year as a can of gas every few weeks still beats $1300 in service, not to mention the time your car is down while it is being done...still no gaurantee everything works up to par after that.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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petek153
- Posts: 141
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Just to let folks know duracool can be purchased online check out this site:: http://www.duracool.com/ people rave about it need to fix my ac will give it a try and let you know outcome.
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
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Sounds good, but my issue with it would be availability of it if I'm on a trip and enough leaks out that I need to charge the system...plus, how expensive is it?
It will not replace an evaporator leak.
It will not replace an evaporator leak.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
I called up the Duracool guys and had a can of 12a and a repair kit shipped out to me. It cost about $107 for the whole package.
Followed the tech's instructions and did the following before opening the AC repair kit.
Attached the charging hose and gauge and did a quick check of how much freon I had in the system (zilch as I suspected).
Then took off the guage and attached my can of Duracool 12a and left it for 15 mins with the engine off.
Turned on the engine and A/C and left it for another 15 mins till the can was empty.
Then opened the repair kit and attached the DuraDry can and waited 15 mins with the engine and A/C on.
Next attached the SystemSeal can and waited for another 15 mins with engine and AC still on.
Finally attached the can of A/C Oil chill and waited another 15 mins with the A/C still on full blast.
I then went on a test ride and even though it was over 80 degrees that evening, I still had to turn off the A/C because it was too cold. It's been two weeks nowand I've done some test runs in 100 degree weather and it is still blowing cold.
After seeing pictures of what it takes to replace the evap and hearing of what it costs to have other folks do it for you, I'm glad I found out about Duracool!
Followed the tech's instructions and did the following before opening the AC repair kit.
Attached the charging hose and gauge and did a quick check of how much freon I had in the system (zilch as I suspected).
Then took off the guage and attached my can of Duracool 12a and left it for 15 mins with the engine off.
Turned on the engine and A/C and left it for another 15 mins till the can was empty.
Then opened the repair kit and attached the DuraDry can and waited 15 mins with the engine and A/C on.
Next attached the SystemSeal can and waited for another 15 mins with engine and AC still on.
Finally attached the can of A/C Oil chill and waited another 15 mins with the A/C still on full blast.
I then went on a test ride and even though it was over 80 degrees that evening, I still had to turn off the A/C because it was too cold. It's been two weeks nowand I've done some test runs in 100 degree weather and it is still blowing cold.
After seeing pictures of what it takes to replace the evap and hearing of what it costs to have other folks do it for you, I'm glad I found out about Duracool!
Hi,
I have been reading the forum for a while to hunt down problems with my girlfriends 97 volvo 850.
Last month I decided to take on the job of replacing the evaporator.... and I figured it would be helpful to others like me who don't have detailed repair manuals to take on this job to have some guidance. While doing the job I took pictures along the way, some of the steps I did were not necessary so I tried to leave them out.
It turned out that the job is big but it is doable. Hope the pictures will help someone. I know there has been another post where pictures where posted but some of the steps were missing.. so here we go
http://people.umass.edu/gfeldman/volvo_ ... index.html
One important thing though: The battery has to be disconnected at least an hour before starting the job and in particular touching the airbags!
Other then that the only special tool required to do the job is a line diconnecting tool, which you should get at any auto parts store.
I have been reading the forum for a while to hunt down problems with my girlfriends 97 volvo 850.
Last month I decided to take on the job of replacing the evaporator.... and I figured it would be helpful to others like me who don't have detailed repair manuals to take on this job to have some guidance. While doing the job I took pictures along the way, some of the steps I did were not necessary so I tried to leave them out.
It turned out that the job is big but it is doable. Hope the pictures will help someone. I know there has been another post where pictures where posted but some of the steps were missing.. so here we go
http://people.umass.edu/gfeldman/volvo_ ... index.html
One important thing though: The battery has to be disconnected at least an hour before starting the job and in particular touching the airbags!
Other then that the only special tool required to do the job is a line diconnecting tool, which you should get at any auto parts store.
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