DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals using SKF 11809 9443310
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DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals
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OldSkoolMadSkilz
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Re: DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals using SKF 11809!
A low quality seal is better than a leaking seal. Worst case is that you'll need to do it again in a few years.
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cn90
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1+,
@phils94850, if no leak, leave it alone. Autozone stuff are hit-and-miss: I think their seals are OK.
The REAR cam seals are easy job, so no worry, worst-case scenario, do them again in a few years. No biggy.
The FRONT cam seals is another story!!!
Anyway, at the time of this writing (Nov 2014), rmeuropean carries Corteco seals for very good price. Corteco is one of the OEM supplier for BMW, Mercedes, Volvo etc.
@phils94850, if no leak, leave it alone. Autozone stuff are hit-and-miss: I think their seals are OK.
The REAR cam seals are easy job, so no worry, worst-case scenario, do them again in a few years. No biggy.
The FRONT cam seals is another story!!!
Anyway, at the time of this writing (Nov 2014), rmeuropean carries Corteco seals for very good price. Corteco is one of the OEM supplier for BMW, Mercedes, Volvo etc.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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mecheng
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I believe Corteco may actually be Volvo OEM, not SKF. My friend used a Corteco seal a couple of years ago on his S70, no issues.
See Pelican parts, they list it as OEM. They've had it for a while now:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/kse ... 43310-M104
See Pelican parts, they list it as OEM. They've had it for a while now:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/kse ... 43310-M104
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
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combatkarl
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Excellent post...completed this unexpectedly last weekend when doing the Distributor/plugs/rotor and plug wires. (The seal behind the distributor popped out - similar to: by OldSkoolMadSkilz » 21 Nov 2014, 09:08 Finally changed mine. The front seal was fine, but the rear seal had actually popped all the way out and was resting against the sensor rotor!)
Ended up using Elring brand as that was what was available. I ran across this question/statement on another forum and wanted your folks opinion. Any one use RTV silicone... a thin film around the outside of the seal before pressing it into place?
Ended up using Elring brand as that was what was available. I ran across this question/statement on another forum and wanted your folks opinion. Any one use RTV silicone... a thin film around the outside of the seal before pressing it into place?
Karl
1997 Volvo 850 GLT
2001 Honda Odyssey
1999 Mazda Miata
2012 Dodge Journey
1984 Honda Nighthawk S bike
1997 Volvo 850 GLT
2001 Honda Odyssey
1999 Mazda Miata
2012 Dodge Journey
1984 Honda Nighthawk S bike
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xHeart
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The seals are engineer to fit real tight, using motor oil for lubrication would suffice. I use Volvo brand for few $ more because I like to think that I will keep my car for a while.
Corteco-CFW is OEM. A healthy PCV will help seal work longer.
Silicon works best when two surfaces are matting, and similar in material.
Corteco-CFW is OEM. A healthy PCV will help seal work longer.
Silicon works best when two surfaces are matting, and similar in material.
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- rspi
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Contact rspi..
I had 2 cam seals pop out on my daughters S70 GLT, lost 2-1/2 quarts of oil in 2 miles. They were NOT OEM seals so I installed OEM seals, front and back, that should have been my second clue that the head had been replaced.
At any rate, after visiting SKF's website I located a few local suppliers of their products and they sell the seals here locally for something like $2.30. Had to order them and should arrive in 3 business days.
As Erik stated, probably NOT a good idea to replace them with a bad/clogged PCV.
At any rate, after visiting SKF's website I located a few local suppliers of their products and they sell the seals here locally for something like $2.30. Had to order them and should arrive in 3 business days.
As Erik stated, probably NOT a good idea to replace them with a bad/clogged PCV.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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OldSkoolMadSkilz
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As ericv11 mentioned earlier, it's much better to have top end seals pop out rather than a bottom end seal. If you glue in the cam seal, then it could cause one of the crank seals to pop. That would be real bad.combatkarl wrote:.... I ran across this question/statement on another forum and wanted your folks opinion. Any one use RTV silicone... a thin film around the outside of the seal before pressing it into place?
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cn90
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This is an example: if engine bore O.D. = 47.00 mm, then the SKF seal O.D. = 47.32 mm.
If you look at the seal design (cross-section), the seal is basically a metal cup (get a magnet and you will see it sucks to the magnet), coated with rubber material.
So, when you press the new seal in, the rubber coating will form the seal. That extra 0.32mm is need for a tight press-fit. In other words, whenever installing new seal, it should feel stiff and requires some gentle hammer tap with socket to drive it in. If the seal goes in too easily, then it is not good.
Oil leak, if happens, usually occurs at the rotating surface: where the seal lip meets the rotating camshaft. This can happen due to a few causes:
- The "garter spring" loses its grip with time/mileage.
- The rubber material is no longer pliable with time/mileage.
- The mating surface of the camshaft is nicked/scored during seal removal/installation.
- Excessive pressure (PCV clogged) pushing oil out where seal lip meets the rotating camshaft.
If you look at the seal design (cross-section), the seal is basically a metal cup (get a magnet and you will see it sucks to the magnet), coated with rubber material.
So, when you press the new seal in, the rubber coating will form the seal. That extra 0.32mm is need for a tight press-fit. In other words, whenever installing new seal, it should feel stiff and requires some gentle hammer tap with socket to drive it in. If the seal goes in too easily, then it is not good.
Oil leak, if happens, usually occurs at the rotating surface: where the seal lip meets the rotating camshaft. This can happen due to a few causes:
- The "garter spring" loses its grip with time/mileage.
- The rubber material is no longer pliable with time/mileage.
- The mating surface of the camshaft is nicked/scored during seal removal/installation.
- Excessive pressure (PCV clogged) pushing oil out where seal lip meets the rotating camshaft.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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mecheng
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After reading this you will be scratching your head. I was getting ready to return some parts I didn't use when I came across the cam seals I purchased when I did my cap/rotor. There was no oil leaking so there was no need to change the cam seal. The local German parts supplier I use can only get Elring so I purchased it before I read this thread knocking them. I had a better look at the seal and low and behold it says: Corteco on it!
Has Elring been using Corteco seals all along, did they just switch due to problems or is that some kind of reference marking???
Has Elring been using Corteco seals all along, did they just switch due to problems or is that some kind of reference marking???
- Attachments
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- Box
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- Corteco stamped on seal
- image.jpg (163.11 KiB) Viewed 2924 times
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- Inside pic.
- image.jpg (236.94 KiB) Viewed 2924 times
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
- rspi
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
Contacted the local SKF distributor and gave them all of the info off of the box on page 1, to have them order me some seals. Went to pick up my order today and this is what I got... The end is near. 
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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