2000 S80 DIY 4T65EV-GT rebuild (in car) Topic is solved

Ponchorete · Post by **Ponchorete** » 19 Dec 2017, 19:28

hello, I send yo a PM but I don know why they didn't go out of the outbox tray, anyway mi email is [email protected] any info pleas will be highly welcome.

Thanks in advance

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 25 Mar 2018, 16:15

Hey Guys,

I'm about to tackle the gearbox rebuild, thanks to superherman so far for the help but I have a question.

My car is only slipping in 3rd so I'm only planning on replacing all the steels, seals and frictions, I wasn't planning on doing anything in the valve body, is it possible to remove the valve body as one unit without splitting it, if I'm not changing anything I'd rather not mess around losing check balls etc

would I still need to remove the oil pump if taking that valve body out whole?

Thanks guys, trying to be as prepared as possible before starting this, hopefully the parts from triple edge should be here this week.

John.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 25 Mar 2018, 17:02

John: The valve body comes off in parts. It is sorta build in layers starting with the oil pump. You will need to take it off. Most of the other stuff will also have to come off as you have to get to the chain. Oil pump body remains sealed and is not an issue. Just watch some of the tear down videos. As for the check balls, if you don't remove the plate/gasket they should stay in place. Still I would look at the plate/gasket as it a known wear part - check balls can deform the plate and pass through it. Mine was deformed.

One thing of note part of the oil pump (the pump body) comes off as does the oil pump shaft, but the drive socket (socket that has the chain on MUST stay on). On the back side is a seal that will not permit you to remove it unless you destroy the oil ring seal - this is accessed from the torque converter side. See Pic under step 42 (below link). This also explains why you have to take off all the parts - you need to get to this point so you can disconnect the chain and start pulling the innards on the right out.

Read through this http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to- ... nsmission/ and watch the tear down videos.

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 26 Mar 2018, 14:15

Thanks Miguel, that is a great link, I'm sure I read in another rebuild thread that someone took the entire valve body off, I'll try to find it.

John.

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 01 Apr 2018, 13:12

So i'm currently at the stage where i'm about to take the side cover off the gearbox, in the process managed to shear and engine pad and even worse a subframe bolt, what a pain in the ass just to get the gearbox into position. Oh well onwards we go

John.

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 02 Apr 2018, 12:30

Not sure if anyone watching this thread but I have a question, trying to compress the spring on 2nd gear but my clamps and sockets don't seem to be budging it. What did you guys do to compress 2nd spring, any help would be great

Thanks

John.

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 02 Apr 2018, 12:39

and just fyi, I took off the valve body with oil pump attached as one unit, saved a bit of time and hassle

John.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 02 Apr 2018, 14:18

Read last paragraph of Instructables Step 75. Use the clutch piston inverted if I recall. I had the same issue and destroyed mine and had to order a new one until I understood what the author meant. If not you need to hunt around for a hard plastic/metal tube of the right diameter and length that will slide into the opening and hopefully contact the inside elevated lip only. If you find a suitable plastic piece of pipe you can notch out a small portion so you can get your pick in to pull out the clip. I used two squeeze clamps on the old clutch piston and compressed them evenly. It is really tight. You can do the same with a hard plastic PVC pipe if you can find the right diameter. Other option is to weld something up - basically in the shape of a "T" with the vertical legs being the same length and the horizontal legs being curved to fit the inside lip. You can weld the vertical legs together or run a hard flat across. Look at Instructables Pic 69 to get an idea of what the tool would look like. What you end up using depends on what other tools you have. The other safest option is to see if you can get a tranny shop to do it for you

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 03 Apr 2018, 04:24

Thanks Miguel, I've ordered a tool which should be here tomorrow, it's the only bit left to do

apart from then trying to figure out how to get the sheared subframe bolt out

John.

steelej · Post by **steelej** » 06 Apr 2018, 11:28

Hey Miguel,

Just want to confirm 4th gear, there's an apply plate, then 4 frictions 2 have the teeth for splines then there's another metal plate right? The 4t65e manual shows something different which might have been the difference from the Volvo supplement you mentioned in a previous post. Getting everything back in today was a bit of a headache, I've only got the valve cover and side cover to go back on now so nearly there

John.

2000 S80 DIY 4T65EV-GT rebuild (in car) Topic is solved

Re: 2000 S80 DIY 4T65EV-GT rebuild (in car)