2004 s60 Won't start, low compression all 5 cylinders

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 12 Oct 2020, 17:47

FREEBUSINESSES wrote: 12 Oct 2020, 13:26 Any pictures of crank pulley when set to proper timing mark, this would show relationship of the four bolts in relation to crank pulley rather than pulling of crank pulley. Eyeballed it, looks fine outside, but looking at that crank pulley in picture, amazing, would not believe it if I didn't see it, but that happened due to missing bolt as it sounds like what happened.

To check for the stripped splines on the crank timing belt pulley and verify the crank position is correct you must pull the pulley off. If the splines are damaged you can align the marks on the pulley to the block rib correctly but this doesn't guarantee the crank is in the correct position if it has rotated some due to the stripped splines. There is a double wide spline on the crank that is a key for the pulley and it's approximately in the 9 o'clock position when timing belt pulley is aligned to the block but you have to pull the pulley off to view the crank key and position. In my opinion you should take the time to pull of the crank timing belt pulley, check the splines and check the position of the double wide spline on the crank. See the photo for the double spline on the crank in the ~ 9 o'clock position. Pulley timing marks were aligned before pulling the pulley straight off to replace the seal on my engine.

XC70Rider · Post by **XC70Rider** » 12 Oct 2020, 21:50

The notches are so tiny on the crank it's not easy to be sure you found them during the first inspection.

FREEBUSINESSES · Post by **FREEBUSINESSES** » 15 Oct 2020, 06:47

OK, I pulled off crank pulley, splines are OK. As to marks on pulley, no dots on mine, I used the other mark on pulley which some have said is same, the line on outside of pulley. If anything, it has to be correct as piston is just before TDC. Also, crank lock would also verify if splines had stripped out, right? I got a cylinder air pressure line, and strange, cylinder one has 30 lbs. after putting oil down cylinder, but I am getting air coming out of cylinder four, none out of oil fill, or antifreeze, and cranking engine at same time did not change this. There was also air bleed over from cylinder five to three. Not a lot, but you could feel it, CRAZY???

Thanks,

Post by **jonesg** » 17 Oct 2020, 11:20

I would suspect camshafts are 180 degs out of sync.

Sweedy · Post by **Sweedy** » 24 Jan 2021, 13:47

Im having the same problem, I bought a 2008 s60T with blown headgasket. I was able to start engine and it idled great, but it did need headgasket. Removed head and had it resurfaced, pressure checked and shop said valves good. Installed head with new parts from FCP and timed with cam tool and crank tool. It has crank no start condition, and low compression in all cylinder 60 psi wet. I reset timing and everything was on time, but I noticed that I could turne cams slightly with locking tool with vvt hubs locked in place and not moving with cam. Is this normal I thought hub would be locked in place when resting?

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jan 2021, 18:58

Are you locking on the driver side( rear of engine) or the passenger side ( front of engine)?

Sweedy · Post by **Sweedy** » 24 Jan 2021, 22:03

From driver side, removed cam sensors.

Post by **jonesg** » 25 Jan 2021, 05:33

Sweedy wrote: 24 Jan 2021, 13:47 Im having the same problem, I bought a 2008 s60T with blown headgasket. I was able to start engine and it idled great, but it did need headgasket. Removed head and had it resurfaced, pressure checked and shop said valves good. Installed head with new parts from FCP and timed with cam tool and crank tool. It has crank no start condition, and low compression in all cylinder 60 psi wet. I reset timing and everything was on time, but I noticed that I could turne cams slightly with locking tool with vvt hubs locked in place and not moving with cam. Is this normal I thought hub would be locked in place when resting?

not sure how you lock VVt in place,
you can lock the camshaft and lock the VVT HUb to the camshaft,
secure the vvt outer sprocket with the timing belt whilst torquing the vvt hub to the camshaft with center bolt around 83 ft lb.
If you did this then yes you can move the camshaft slightly whilst the timing belt secures the cam sprockets.

If the camshaft moves independently from the VVT HUB, (not outer sprocket), then you didn't tighten HUB center bolt enough.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 25 Jan 2021, 05:46

jonesg wrote: 25 Jan 2021, 05:33 not sure how you lock VVt in place,

Volvo camshaft lock on the back. Universal Timing Gear Clamp on the front.

Post by **jonesg** » 25 Jan 2021, 10:50

Yeh but a VVT inner hub will still free wheel through its range when outer sprocket is locked.