New to Volvo - - Massive Oil Loss

Post by **F250** » 01 Jul 2016, 14:10

I'm changing the cam hubs... although the amount of movement in the new hubs is the same as the used ones, the used ones have a gritty feel as they move and slide while the new ones don't. I can only assume that the fact they may have run with minimal lubrication when the oil level got so low that there is some charred oil residue or potential tiny metal shavings inside the hub housing. I've had another life-long Volvo owner and a trusted local Volvo specialist both tell me what I've concluded... if it were mine, I'd remount the used ones and keep an eye on them, but for my daughter, I'm not taking chances on placing her in a tenuous situation in some remote bodunk location or remote interstate location.

The NEWEST problem is that I cannot budge the oil filter housing in prep for dropping the oil pan. I'll just drop the pan with the housing in place and see if I can coax it off with the pan out of the car. All I have are the dtra and vice-grip type of filter wrenches, and there are NO local sources for the "86mm 16 flat" special cap wrench... even the dealer will not source any tools for their own mechanics.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jul 2016, 18:20

I got a cap wrench that fit at Advance Auto, my FLAPS

Post by **F250** » 01 Jul 2016, 19:59

I checked Advance Auto, Autozone, Napa, and O-Reilly's, and all they had in cap wrenches were 72mm, 80-82mm, and 93mm... none had the 86 or 86.5mm I needed.

Once I got the pan dropped, I managed to get the housing off, but even then it was extremely difficult.

No sludge in the pan, but lots of baked on oil and varnish. It's not spotless right now, but it's a while lot better than it was and the mating gasket face surface is clean and ready for gasket stuff. I'll clean the mating surface on the bottom of the engine in the morning and start putting everything back in. The pan is sitting up against the wall so any residual moisture from the cleaning process can drip and dry tonight in the garage.

The oil pickup line screen had a small bit of stuff along one edge, but was probably 95% completely clean.

The vertical drain port from the PCV trap had blockage right near the top, right after the horizontal port turns downward, but I could not tell if it was 100% blocked or just mostly blocked. It's all clear now.

Observation on the pan removal process... I neither had to drop the subframe or jack up the engine to get the pan down. Once it dropped (after about 4-5 light taps with a small 10oz kids metal hammer -- the rubber mallet was a complete NO GO), I got under the pan, removed the three remaining screws which had been left in with about 4 threads to catch the pan, I had the pan completely out in about 2-3 minutes of maneuvering.

Tonight, I'm installing VIDA DICE on my laptop for use in making sure I get the timing set correctly.

I watched the video which was recommended, but it is of no use at this point because I had already managed to NOT mark the intake hub before removing it from the cam. I still know the approximate position and will just have to start from there and do the old trial and error routine until i get it nailed. I would still like to know how the intake valves are positioned when the bottom crank and exhaust hubs are in position, but I'll get by if I can;t discover that before tomorrow evening.

Post by **F250** » 02 Jul 2016, 21:05

Once I polished all residual off the mating oil pan and block surfaces, I got the gasket material in place and the pan was up and mounted within 5 minutes all by myself. Again, no need to drop the subframe or jack up the engine.

Slowly putting it all back together. Taking tomorrow off from vehicle repairs and will finish on Monday.

VNDETTA · Post by **VNDETTA** » 12 Jul 2016, 00:30

I'm in the process of doing a major overhaul of my "new" (to me) V70R after it went from 110k miles to 130k miles with no service records available anywhere. I don't know if the original owner traded the car in at 110k miles and someone else bought it and didn't want to fool with fixing the issues that popped up from lack of routine maintenance intervals, or if the original owner knew he had a lot of maintenance coming up and he didn't want to pay the beaucoup bucks at the local dealership to have all new front suspension installed, new subframe bushings, new 4c's, fix the air conditioner, put tires on it, get an alignment, replace the front pads and rotors, and replace the PCV system, all of which I have had to do (or am in the process of doing) since I got the car less than 3k miles ago. With me being disabled, I can neither work on the car myself anymore nor can I afford to pay exorbitant dealership or repair shop prices around here (seriously, the local shadetree Swede specialist charges more than the dealership does!), and couple that to the fact that both the local dealership and the repair shop have never even WORKED on an R, and I'll take my chances having my father do it for me as he is a 50 year mechanic with plenty of Volvo experience (although his Volvo experience is on heavy equipment, lol). It's a bit embarrassing to be 36 years old and as worthless as a warm pitcher of spit, but life happens.

Anyway, best of luck. If you are ever in the Mobile area, look me up.

Post by **F250** » 12 Jul 2016, 06:37

Man, Steve, you're certainly "in it deep". Sounds like you're very fortunate, too, with having your dad's experience and abilities as a resource! I wish I could offer to help, but this current episode with the S60 is coming on the tail end (for now) of over three months of perpetual vehicle drama with almost all of my or my kids vehicles, and I'm about at the end of my rope. Besides still being covered up with vehicle and home projects, work at the office has really picked up and I need to work OT almost every week for the next couple months. I'm hoping that once I get my daughter's S60 back to her, I can focus on a few outstanding issues for my and my wife's vehicles and some home projects. Consequently, the smell of sawdust is a whole lot more enticing than grease, oil, fuel, and degreaser.

BTW, I grew up north of Mobile (Satsuma), but rarely get down there any more.

VNDETTA · Post by **VNDETTA** » 12 Jul 2016, 08:55

Well we are in Wilmer right now but are looking to relocate to 12 acres in Chunchula right off Hwy 45, maybe raise some bees and do a little light hobby farming.

Post by **F250** » 12 Jul 2016, 20:21

I know that region.

Back to my car situation. Looks like it's all resolved. Exhaust cam timing is off by less than 0.2 degrees. The intake is off by -11 degrees, but I'll adjust for that tomorrow night and start running my test drives.

Thanks for all the insights, suggestions, and encouragement. You guys have been a great help.

Post by **sleddriver** » 14 Jul 2016, 11:20

F250 wrote:.... home projects. Consequently, the smell of sawdust is a whole lot more enticing than grease, oil, fuel, and degreaser.

Amen to that! My tablesaw & workbench are feeling ignored and mad at me for covering them with car parts!

Post by **F250** » 26 Jul 2016, 08:49

CLOSURE... All is well. The engine is starting and running stronger than it was with no apparent loss of oil. The final adjustments on the timing of the cams has both cams running from only -0.1 to +0.3 degrees off of the target values.

Thanks for all the input.

New to Volvo - - Massive Oil Loss

Re: New to Volvo - - Massive Oil Loss