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Power Window fuse #37

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Beckyrialto
Posts: 12
Joined: 29 August 2016
Year and Model: 1999 V70 Wagon
Location: Maine, USA

Re: Power Window fuse #37

Post by Beckyrialto »

A long holiday weekend and 2 days of rain have slowed down my circuit breaker work! But I'm back on it now.
This is what was under the melted fuse box. It doesn't look like much, but if you zoom in, the slot second from the right is melted too.
circuit breaker.jpg
THIS is what was under the previous picture. That's a Lot of wires!
wires.jpg

stephenpach
Posts: 1
Joined: 12 December 2022
Year and Model: 1999
Location: Cambridgeshire

Post by stephenpach »

Power window fuse number 37, my windows have failed I’ve replaced both front controllers. Not thing still working

I think the auto reset fuse has failed where can I find a replacement it’s a small silver case fuse marked USA 20amp 12v

Thanks Stephen

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abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 35301
Joined: 17 February 2013
Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
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Post by abscate »

If you are stuck I’ll try stick one in the post

Pm me your address

Cymru!!
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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BEJinFbk
Posts: 4067
Joined: 5 January 2008
Year and Model: '98 V70 R
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
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Post by BEJinFbk »

Wow- Heavy Flash back!
Reading back through this, I noticed a major concept
that wasn’t really discussed in the original posts.

Breakers get hot, melt things and fail because something
that they feed pulls way too much current. It’s not getting
hot because it’s failing. The breaker is most likely just doing
it’s job. Not a bug - It’s the main feature. But, it’s not the best
design...

Swapping in a fresh breaker can be a useful diagnostic tool,
but dollars to donuts, the real problem will continue to cause
it to trip, get hot and repeat. That’s the downside to an “Automatic”
thermal breaker that resets all by itself. Convenient if someone tries
repeatedly to operate a stuck, frozen or broken window, but a PITA
if you have an ongoing problem that consumes too much juice.

It’s also useful to remember that if it’s been going on long enough
that you’ve already cooked fuseblock contacts, that has also become
a high current draw issue that’s also now a part of the failure chain.

The solution is to track down the initial problem, solve it and repair
the damage that was caused. Once everything is minty fresh and back
to OEM condition, it might not be a bad idea to seek out a brand new
breaker. By their nature, a thermally actuated circuit breaker is a
consumable device with a finite lifespan. Fortunately, generic
replacements are pretty easy to come by.

This one looks about right:

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-FCB- ... B004AH6OGI

Best of Luck! 👍
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

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