low battery after 6 month repair wait. Topic is solved

[abscate]

Check your timing belt cover for the sticker, too. A bit of danger that someone swapped engines And moved cover over though.

[oragex]

You only need the first 3-4 digits, so I think I see the same 31354..
Your tensioner is this one (but 2x check) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-30638277

[jonesg]

You only need the first 3-4 digits, so I think I see the same 31354..
Your tensioner is this one (but 2x check) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-30638277

I ordered the contitech continental oem belt kit, it comes with the INA tensioner, belt and idler pulley.
Also ordered the regulator for the alternator, might as well tear into that whilst waiting for delivery.

I plan to just swap the timing belt tensioner out by holding the timing belt in place with a bungee, I'd much prefer not to remove the timing belt unless it got stretched out of shape. I will set up the timing marks before starting just in case I need to remove the belt or it falls off.
those 2 cvvt cam hubs give me bad dreams.

[jonesg]

Check your timing belt cover for the sticker, too. A bit of danger that someone swapped engines And moved cover over though.

well the sticker was missing, but I'm confident the number off the block is good. I've written the number in my book .

This particular V70 was totalled when it took a side hit and all the airbags went off,
a body guy did a good job and did the restoration, title is salvage.
I was told the drive train was not disturbed, it doesn't take much to total these cars.

My wife wants to get a new car, I could buy a lot of parts just on the insurance cost for a new financed vehicle.
A second vehicle would be nice though. I'm retired now so don't really need a daily driver.

[jonesg]

3135435 ?

That line is the engine serial number and it is only six digits.
The line above it is the Engine model and revision ID.

Soak it with a degreaser then wipe it clean with a Scotch brite and a rag.
The degreaser "LA'a Totallly Awesome" which sells for $1.00 per 1/2 gallon at The Dollar three will clean it up.

You can also soak it with degreaser then pressure wash it clean. If you do not have a pressure washer there is one at the local car wash.

the serial number is the second line, its 7 digit, I checked it with FCP.
I think we're confusing above and below, I had to hold my phone camera upside down. Its more visible on my phone than the computer screen.
So I've ordered the parts and need to pull the alternator next whilst waiting for ups delivery.

[oragex]

I plan to just swap the timing belt tensioner out by holding the timing belt in place with a bungee

I did so on my car. Kind of risky in the sense that the belt can easily 'drop' off the lower crank teeth and then you'll need to remove the small cover with two torx to place back the belt underneath crank. I managed to keep constant pressure on the belt but it's a bit scary because place is scarce for hands, but otherwise doable. With a helper is even better if he/she is paying attention at keeping the belt stretched

[jonesg]

well its one thing after the next.
I started trying to pul the alternator, got steering pump out of the way alright and went to loosen the alt bolts, can't locate the top one, theres just an empty hole but the threads are sticking out the rear of the boss on the alternator.
So it looks like someone broke the bolt off.
I don't see any simple solution to this, is the alt on a removable bracket?
I believe I could extract it if I had it on the bench, maybe weld a nut on the end, drill and extract if need be or even buy a used bracket.
Any suggestions?

I was trying to avoid complication of removing the intake manifold.

See here,

[oragex]

Also depends where did the stud shear, maybe it clears the bracket. Undo the two lower bolts, and also the two bottom bolts at the a/c - remove them completely (carefully these may be stuck, not to shear them). You should be able to rotate the alternator around the upper side 'stud' or what's remaining off, and evaluate from there. May also spread some penetratic oil over the stud and bracket, maybe you can grad the stud end with some thin nose locking pliers.
If it doesn't work, and if there's not place to drill inside the hole, may also try to replace the regulator without removing the alternator but perhaps the rad fan unit must come out (this may work on turbo intakes, but pretty sure not on non turbo ones)

[jonesg]

yeh, thanks for the suggestions.
I just disconnected the big red cable and spade connecter from the alt.

Someone on youtube said they changed the regulator in place but not a fun job, lots of stubby screwdrivers.

I will try as you suggest, I'm confident I can extract it if its on the bench but gotta get it there first.

does the oil dipstick tube pull straight out once the retaining bracket at the top is removed, it seems free but doesn't want to let go.

[oragex]

Yes, tube has the top bolt, then toss to clear the bracket and pull with moderate force while twisting it - it feels stuck but it's only a seal, hopefully it will not tear so double check days later it doesn't leak