No compression on 1 - burnt valve? Topic is solved

[rguzz]

mrinjector.us if you decide to have your injectors tested and cleaned, they do a nice before and after graph.

[songzunhuang]

Lots of work.
I would also check the injectors, we don't know if they are the reason for it, but it won't hurt and is sensible imo. Maybe someone offers cleaning, or you can get refurbished ones...
You an also try to clean them by yourself, build something to actuate the injector and spry carb/intake cleaner through it... I tried it on my old ones after I bought refurbished ones. The old ones did not even have a spry pattern, more like a water hose.

This is one way, I used some hose and hoseclamps and glued an adapter together, also works.

I did this exact thing with my BMW injectors. I used an emergency starter batter pack to feed 12 volts and make it activate.,

Testing and cleaning BMW injectors.

BMW Valve setup.png (1.51 MiB) Viewed 794 times

I may just get a whole new set for the heck of it. These are so easy to change and service.

[wizechatmgr]

You may wish to splurge for non-oem exhaust manifold nuts that are copper. I do this on my motorcycles and cars. If I ever have to remove them again, they come right off without much issue.

[scot850]

I just had the exhaust manifolds and studs swapped on my Toyota 4Runner V8 when the exhaust manifolds had to be replaced. The OE ones came out not too badly as I had wire brushed and PB Blasted them for a week before it went into the shop.

I also splurged on Titanium studs and nuts so it won't be so hard if they need to be done again!

Neil.

[abscate]

Song - get a bag over that turbo intake pipe facing up, begging to gulp down a loose screw, nut, 10mm socket, or squirrel food and wreck your turbo

[songzunhuang]

Song - get a bag over that turbo intake pipe facing up, begging to gulp down a loose screw, nut, 10mm socket, or squirrel food and wreck your turbo

Luckily I was able to complete the job without incident! Thanks for the tip though.

[songzunhuang]

So I finally completed the job and fired up the car! It's running good as new, but it wasn't without a few incidents. It took me a lot longer than anticipated because I did a lot of things on top of the rebuild.

Here's a picture just before putting the cam cover back on. The gasket material is applied, cams and lifters installed.

Cam cover with gasket material

Cam Cover.png (1.59 MiB) Viewed 704 times

Hose Upgrades
I replaced several hoses with upgraded silicon versions. I also concluded that silicon was an unnecessary expense. Regular hoses would have probably been fine.

Fuel Injector
I broke a cap on the pintle for one of the fuel injectors. I got a new injector, but discovered it was the wrong one. It should have been obvious since the injector was a different color. Duh. You can see it in the picture below. I tried to run it with the new injector and of course got a misfire code! That made my heart drop. I ended up harvesting the new bits on the new injector and putting it on the old. Everything was fine after. For reference, the white injectors have a 34.6 lb/hr rating while the orange ones have 19.9 lb/hr. I learned this after the fact when I conducted some more research online.

Bad orange injector

Injectors.png (1.05 MiB) Viewed 704 times

Coolant Temp Wiring Harness
When I first started up the car, the electric fan came on full blast. I have seen this before! Checking the connector, I saw that the female side was completely crumbled and not making contact. I used some needle nose pliers to push the contacts in all the way and that fixed the issue, but the connector isn't doing much now. For the life of me, I can't find anyone who can sell me the female side of the harness that clips into the coolant temp sensor. This may be a future Pick N Pull run.

Battery Terminal "U" Nut
The negative terminal U shaped nut broke. Once again, I can't find these anywhere. When I contacted various online shops, they wanted to sell me a new negative cable assembly for $100+. All I needed was the nut. I ended up using a hose clamp. Yea, very elegant.

Elegant clamp

Battery Terminal.png (1.38 MiB) Viewed 704 times

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
I tried to do something clever and it failed. Used Permatex copper high temp gasket material to secure the gaskets on the manifold before installing the head. The idea was to install the head without the exhaust studs, which is a lot easier as the head can go straight down on to the block. Well, what I didn't anticipate was that as I tighten the head down, it dragged the gaskets down as well. I spent a lot of time aligning the gaskets holes for the studs before putting in the exhaust studs. Lesson learned.

Before install of head

Exhaust Manifold Gasket.png (1.29 MiB) Viewed 704 times

So those were my struggles. All in all it took me closer to 15 hours to do everythingI (Head, timing belt, new lifters, new hoses, new coolant assembly, cleanup, etc.) I have taken the red brick for a few drives since completion and it's doing great. Smooth and no more codes. It is very satisfying and I hope it lasts another 200K+ miles!

Oh, I have a complete set of apparently good used hydraulic lifters if anyone needs them for cheap. I've posted that in the classifieds here: viewtopic.php?t=102551

Finally, I should mention an invaluable resource I used - http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyi ... gasket.htm
I printed this out and used it as a checklist.

[abscate]

Well done, Song. I’ve found leaving the manifold off until the head and water pipe are on makes that a lot easier.

15 hours is a decent time for that. You can be on track and then spend 2 hours on one bad boy bolt , of course

[greg850r]

You can do this yourself. You will need to buy a valve spring compressor. You can find one on Amazon for about $50. Make sure the diameter of the collar that goes on the spring side is small enough to fit down into the hole in the head where the valve spring lives.

Once the head is on the bench it's pretty straightforward. Put the head on it's side and compress the spring. The throw on the compressor tool is adjustable. You want it set to compress the valve spring enough to use a pick to separate the split valve keeper and it will fall out. If you don't get enough travel they won't fall out. Too much travel and you will bottom the spring making it impossible to lock the compressor closed. After the two halves of the keeper fall out just release the spring compressor and the valve retainer and spring will come out in your hand. then push on the valve stem while pulling from the other side on the head of the valve. If it sticks just rotate it back and forth while pulling.
After removing the suspect valves. you will be able to see the hole in the edge of the bad ones if you have no compression at all.

Going to look through my past posts because I think I did a write up on this job. Will post more soon.


Tried to delete this after I realized there were 5 pages on this thread and I was too late. Oh well...

[songzunhuang]

Well done, Song. I’ve found leaving the manifold off until the head and water pipe are on makes that a lot easier.

15 hours is a decent time for that. You can be on track and then spend 2 hours on one bad boy bolt , of course

Hmm, I definitely didn't put the intake manifold back on until after the head was secured.
Are you talking about the exhaust manifold?

I hear you about the bad bolt time sink. I had to cut off a thermostat housing bolt, but then realized that a new housing was like $80 so it wasn't even worth messing with trying to drill out and restoring the threads. I used an new housing.

I also had to vise grip a few exhaust studs to get the nuts off. This messed up the threads. Once again, I just got new studs. Tried to get aftermarket studs for cheaper, but ended up going with Volvo OEM due to availability, but at $5 a stud! Criminal. But it was one of those situations where I didn't want to slow down the project when it was so close...