Just did a whole lot of work to solve the oil leaks Saskia was experiencing. All that was done:
- Oil pan drilled hole and tapped for bigger size (M20x1.5)
- Cleaned up oil pan, new sealant and o-rings
- Oil cooler seal and cooler line seals
- Dipstick tube o-ring
- Front crankshaft seal
- Oil pump seals
- New 30mm crankshaft nut (I’d recommend a new once since it’s torqued to 180 Nm and fairly inexpensive)
- Camshaft seals (2 front and 2 back)
- Coolant reservoir/expansion tank, new silicone piping for tank, and a new tank cap.
- Adjusting the timing (some discussion on that here: viewtopic.php?t=108481)
And of course new oil filter, oil drain plug, oil, and a good bit of new coolant.
Did learn why the A/C system has been slowly becoming less and less efficient, the seams of the front-to-middle and middle-to-back of the housing are leaking... *sigh* so new compressor and accumulator (p/n: 9187629) are on the to-do, but for a shop.
Didn’t take a lot of photos, but here’s some:
- Oil pan after dropping. Dirty!
- Underside of the engine, things looked good
- Leaking A/C compressor
- Leaking A/C compressor
- Cleaned-up oil pan. Simple-green soaked for over an hour, two rounds
- Installed easily, new anaerobic sealant applied well
- Stripped T40
- The aftermath of the T40, had to drill out
- Leaky rear camshaft seals, both bad
- MTC crank locking tool picked up from IPD
- Front camshaft seals both bad, not nearly as bad as rear
- Crank gear timing, off from the mark with cams level with seam in the head (with proper over-under of intake-exhaust notches)
- If your crankshaft gear has the small 2 notches, the middle crevasse lines up with the notch on the part of the gear unit that the vibration damper/harmonic balancer screws onto
- Way to rotate crank after the gear was removed to check markings: slide the gear back a bit on the crankshaft, enough so it won't strip, then screw on the holding tool and use it like a wrench. Can also align the heads of the bolts and put the tool on those
- Oil pump and a very dead and brittle gasket
- There's two different kits for the oil pump based on the engine number, mine was the earlier kit (IPD has details if you go to purchase an oil pump kit for a P80)
- New gasket orientation on the pump
- Oil pump to block mating surface, cleaned up a bit
- Front crankshaft seal installed
- Marks properly realigned
- Engine bay with the new wires and coolant things. Slowly getting nicer, and with more blue!
Primed with a few turns to Pos II, then she started right up with a good rumble!
Did Steve's Garage method for bleeding the coolant system some, but also driving around and topping off as the system bleeds/burps too
Didn't get to posting this earlier, but about 100 miles before this I replaced what seemed to be the very worn spark plug wires with ones from IPD, which made a noticeable difference right away and solved the issue of engine stutter on acceleration when it was hot out, confirming my hypothesis.
Interesting thing noted, it's an early 1998 V70XC with an engine to match, yet has what I believe to be the newer mechanical tensioner as opposed to the hydraulic one. Wasn't too difficult to work with, Lemon Manuals has details for the temp specs here: https://lemon-manuals.la/Volvo/1998/V70 ... justments/
When first starting and doing some driving, there was some leakage from the drain plug. It being new threads, crush washer, and drain plug, after it being heat-cycled I got under and tightened it a bit more with a wrench, which yielded about 60 degrees more of rotation before becoming tight enough I wouldn't go further
A few tips I have from doing this
For the oil pan:
- Removal: tilt the left side down towards ground, slide it that direction once the edge is clear of the transmission and power steering lines.
- Re-installation: have your head under the transmission and look towards the right of the car, it gives a good angle to see where the pickup is lined up in relation to your oil pan's groove.
Oil dipstick reinstall trick:
Insert dipstick with the metal attachment point that attaches to the intake manifold (stopper tab on the right when looking at the car from the front towards the back), place a block of wood under the palm of your hand, and push down. It'll slide into place (then don't forget the bolt. I wedged a small 2x4 board in between it and the intake manifold and put in the bolt from the bottom since my car was already in the air).
Links I used for this (aside from some referencing of VIDA and the Lemon Manuals (here: https://lemon-manuals.la/Volvo/)
viewtopic.php?t=31236#google_vignette
viewtopic.php?t=103128#google_vignette
https://youtu.be/8o-GuuQ6dFM?si=kF136FYwQnDYgmqY
viewtopic.php?t=42989
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41793#google_vignette
https://youtu.be/hy--aZMTHl0?si=wvyh-_yHPPWsqxYX
viewtopic.php?t=50752#google_vignette
viewtopic.php?t=53620
viewtopic.php?t=53722
viewtopic.php?t=77041&start=20